I don't want to confuse you any more than you already are. Please try reading through this thread and/or contact Jamie for some good advice. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...nators-w-pics&highlight=alternator+conversion 1. Your car originally had an externally regulated alternator. 2. Your car now has an internally regulated alternator BUT the external voltage regulator is still connected - this is a problem. 3. You need the jumper wires I described to eliminate (bypass) the external voltage regulator Once you have the proper jumper wire installed you should be able to start the car and see the voltage at the battery with a volt meter. A battery at rest should read slightly above 12 volts. A battery that is being charged by the alternator with the engine running should read somewhere between high 13 volts to high 14 volts. After you get your charging system straightened out, you can chase the rest of the wiring problems.
After I removed the generator and disconnected the main beam connector so there is still power in all cables even when the ignition has been turned off. * I might think wrong: Should the entire fuse box have power all the time? * Can I measure each fuse and see if someone draws an unusual amount of power when it should not draw anything at all? Previous owner said something about a firm has drawn new electricity. The electricity is fresh but I doubt whether it is new. I suspect that they might have put a cable wrong on the back of the fuse box. Or the ignition switch is incorrectly connected.
After market gagues located next to the engine. They got power from the front lights green cables. I have removed these gauges and repaired the cables.
Always volts on fuses, right or wrong? How is it connected before the fuse box? Battery -> Key -> box or Battery -> Relay controlled by key -> box
Some of the circuits are on (active) all the time and some are only on when the key is in the on position. Do you have access to a wiring diagram for your car?
Yes. And I have now studied all the wiring diagrams I found in the manual. Printed and highlighted things I should check. Realized that I need more ground between the battery and the chassis. Think I just have grounded the engine. What I can see in the wiring diagram: * 10 red = direct to battery = clock, lighter, interior lights, cornering lamp, tail lamps, problably head lamps also * 10 Pink = ignition key = warning lights panels, engine oil / water / temperature switches, fuel gauge, speedometer buzzer, cruise, brake, cluster * 10 brown = ignition switch = defroster, air conditioner / heater, 1) Is the 10 symbol for the cable thickness? 2) 10 pink = first step when you turn the key? 3) 10 Brown = second step of the key - when the engine should be running? 4) I have never heard anyone buzzer such as cruise control, it is common for them to break? 5) What is a "circut breaker", how does it work? (in the fuse block) * "ign sw." = Transmission control, wiper Unfortunatelyit does not say pink or red. But I know that this has power even when the car is turned off.
1. Yes, #10 refers to the thickness or gauge of the wire. The lower the number, the thicker the wire. 2. Yes, correct. 3. Technically still first step of the ignition, the key springs back when you release it from the start (or second) position, but YES to your question. 4. They can break but most times people remove them because they are annoying. 5. A circuit breaker is just like a fuse but it is not destroyed when the circuit is overloaded. A circuit breaker will "trip" and open the circuit but it can be re-set and it will work again. A fuse will melt (it's supposed to when over loaded) and "open" the circuit so no more current can flow but it is not reuseable. It looks like you are getting things sorted out. I am glad that you have a wiring diagram and are able to follow it. You are making good progress!
I installed a new CS130 105amp alternator. And linked it with painless cable. And followed the guide how to bypass the voltage regulator. When I switched on the battery, I heard alternator sounded quietly in high frequency. * Alternator warning lamp shine 80% and oil 5% in strength. I tried to remove one fuse at a time. But the warning lights continued to shine. As I turned the key. * Step 2 = both warning lights are turned black. * Step 3 = both warning lights are still black. * Step 4 = alternator 80%. oil 100% shine. * Step 4B = engine start. Both warning lights black. I realize that something might be wrong with my ignition lock. To many steps. I can twist it one step too far counterclockwise. I can remove the key at step 1,2,3. When I have to step 2. Then I have no power to circuits that should not have power, everything is right. Alternator was quiet. I have no power on my orange switch pitch cable I nagged about. My second step should be my first step. Are your ignition locks like this, or should I replace mine? [Edit] Now I know that all ignition switches works like this. Nothing is wrong with the electricity, just a lack of knowledge.
