Something consumes power when the car is turned off. 1) When the car is running, I have a faint glow from the generator lamp. So I replaced the old generator with a new one. But still retains the faint glow. 2) I have changed the old battery that may have been bad. 3) I have replaced some bad cable connections/shoes and damaged insulation. 4) And I have begun to measure. There are new cables to the oil pressure gauge, new carburetor, etc. I discovered that most of them have power even when the ignition is turned off. Trying to find a suitable cable which only have power when the ignition is on, which I may have as a basis for connecting such as carburetor electric choke, Ignitor conversion kit, etc. Previous owner has taken power from the front lights to the lighting of the oil gauges. And power from the 'switch pitch' cable to the electric choke = Always power on. It feels wrong to take power from the front lights and use as a basis. I can shut off the lights and then be without power even though the car is running. Q: I'm curious about what you had done?
First thing to do is remove power to the gauges from the lights. The lights get their ground from the light switch so they don't draw current when the lights are off. But, the gauges have a fixed ground all the time so they are drawing current when the car is turned off. This is bad. Give the gauges their power from the fuse block under the dash and use an ignition terminal. There should be one or more vacant terminals. As for the glowing alternator light, you may have a bad voltage regulator located on the firewall.
Thanks. Googled and found a picture of how the voltage regulator is to be connected. Two thinner power cables should go to the alternator from the voltage regulator. My alternator has only a thick - and + to battery and one medium + to all electrics. The two thin cables; Yellow and gray-blue is loose on top of the engine next to the alternator. The alternator has no direct visible contacts for these. Perhaps behind the black rubber cover. I began to search for new voltage regulator. Found ACDelco D663 (logo) and C635 (no logo). But most shops sell VR103 (universal). Then googled again about the difference and found a post on v8buick where some say that most of the new volt regulators are not reliable. I even read about one who was surprised that people still use external voltage regulator instead of a built-in. I'm curious, my remodeled 100-110amp generator may have internal voltage regulator but how do I know that? I do not like that type of power connector normally. So I'm glad for the tip, I'll remove it so that the lights can be left alone. Alternator voltage regulator. and loose cables.
It looks like you have a 1-wire alternator on there and the OE plug is just hanging free? I'm not sure if the external voltage regulator is hurting anything, but I'd be triple checking how it's all wired in. If you have the back of the alternator wired to the battery and then to something else, you'd want to look over the "something". Besides the already mentioned, you can take out one fuse at a time and check battery draw (or look to see if the light is still on), and you may be able to narrow it down from there based on what circuit is providing power. However, my inclination is the charging circuit is wired into something that is bypassing the ignition switch.
I was out and checked and I think that the power cables goes like this. But guess I forgot to note the - cable to the starter.
Yeah, I'm pretty sure your charging system needs to be cleaned up. The external regulator has no business under the hood with a 1-wire, internally regulated, alternator. Odds are it's causing the weirdness. Have you tried to just unplug the external regulator and see if the problem goes away?
I went out and checked. Connected the battery. Voltage regulator connected. * Ghost glow on the generator lamp. * Strong light when the ignition is in step 1. Disconnected the voltage regulator. * No ghost glow on the generator lamp. * Strong light when the ignition is in step 1. Double-checked. How do I proceed from this? Can I leave unplugged or I cut the electricity in the car then?
My assumption is yes you can leave it unplugged, and probably need either the jumper kit or wire your own up to make the GEN light turn off (if I'm reading it right its still on when the engine is running?). You double check this, but googling around for "Converting external regulator to internal" and look up the results. I haven't done this in 15 years or so, so my memory is fuzzy on exactly which wires to jumper, leave open, etc. Here is one result I got. Because you are running a 1-wire alternator you don't really need to worry about the two other wires that normally go to the alternator. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=178384
Thanks. I have removed the carburetor so I can not start the car right now. Is there anyone who has seen pictures from someone else's similar project? I have several empty fuse terminals. I guess I have to unscrew the fuse box. connect two cables to an empty terminal at the back. But I do not know where to get power from the ignition. Feels wrong that all power goes through the key, I have to use a relay? Or is there already a solution in the box that I can use? .
**If the engine is not running it is technically normal for the GEN light to be bright with the key on, engine off. But the wires that typically control that will not be hooked up on a 1-wire alternator, hence the need for the jumper wire. As for your other question, I am unsure what is being asked. There should be power to the gauges via an existing fuse, a separate jumper wire shouldn't be needed unless something is hacked or broken, in which case it troubleshooting with a volt meter will need to be done along with an OE wiring schematic. It is not uncommon for some fuse pockets to be left without fuse terminals, but if there are metal clips in the pocket, then it should have a fuse for some option on the car.
I guess I have to unscrew the fuse box. connect two cables to an empty terminal at the back. But I do not know where to get power from the ignition. So my electric things only work on when i turn key to step 1. Feels wrong that all power goes through the key, I have to use a relay? Or is there already a solution in the box that I can use?
The 1 wire internally regulated alternator you have will NOT use the warning light function.You need to convert to the 3 wire setup if that's what you want.Plus you will have quicker low RPM turn-on from the alternator. Unplug or remove your firewall regulator,it's not doing anything except triggering your warning light. I do sell the conversion harness but being in Sweden shipping would be costly. Instructions on how to wire it yourself are here http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/alternat.htm
Oh I become unfocused of the classic white page with black text. When the first step is done, I get insecure if the next step is a must?
I had a similar issue when my dimmer switch went bad, but the high beam indicator would stay on the whole time and i would get power through just about everything. For giggles unplug the the dimmer switch to see if it's still happening. I chased several things before getting to it. Hopefullyit's that easy for you.
Just read this. I have never tried any dimmer function so unsure which switch it is. But will check it out! RKammer wrote: "The lights get their ground from the light switch so they don't draw current when the lights are off" Perhaps the switch is the same as the dimmer and damaged by my extra gauges connected on headlights green cable. [Edit]When I searched for dimmer switch on ebay, I noticed that all switches called dimmer. I thought it was dimmer switch for instrument panel lighting. Do you mean the usual switch for the front and rear lights? Oh, i found a Dashlight Dimmer Switch also on Ebay. confused. * I have taken away my extra gauges (oil) that was doubtful connected on my headlights. * I have fixed the bad wiring at the tail lamps. All fuses, except one who does not work regardless, measuring 12 + volts when the ignition has been off or on. Is it right, all fuses have volts all the time? * I tried to connect the two external cables from the voltage regulator but the warning lamp lights up strongly in the panel even when the ignition is turned off. Perhaps should have connected two in middle also. * Orange wire on top of the engine to the switching pitch is 12 + volts all the time. *I do not believe the ignition coil have power when the ignition is off. But I should double-check it. How do I remove the fuse box so I can see the back? If I'm going to pull an extra wire out, would you mounted it on the back of the box to a own fuse, or on a pinterminal at the front, like the power windows? * I think one fuse, and one terminal on coil had strange low volt reading. 1.x or 2.x volt.
Hi, I had to jump in here. The previous picture of the jumper wire for the internally regulated alternator conversion is wrong. I copied a post from a few days back that should help you get straightened out. It describes the conversion from an alternator with an external voltage regulator to an alternator with an internal voltage regulator which it appears is what you have. Look closely at the criss-cross wiring on the jumper wire, it is important to do it this way if you want the generator light to function correctly. I had mine wired like yours is now and things weren't working right. The system would charge but not like it should and the Gen light didn't work. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?299911-GEN-light-on-and-no-charging-at-low-rpm PS - your fuse block looks fine, don't pull it out yet.
Thanks, I notice the criss-cross wiring, but according to http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/alternat.htm so am i supposed to do like i have done. I think. "Blue wire (F) and dark brown (4) should be soldered or spliced together." "2. White wire (2) is no longer needed. Other end at alt. 3. Red wire (3) can be taped." But i have not done the second part yet. I need pictures to understand all this. p + and - wire to battery is done, just wondering where to install the blue wire. [Edit] I think I understand now, will go to shop and buy some things and test it.
Is this guide just to make it work without warning light, or will this make a 3 wire conversion with working warning light?
