Soon, when funds become available, I hope to start rebuilding my project's 401 engine. I have put the micrometer over the bore and crank and although not a lot of wear there has been some corrosion from sitting for a long period opened so will have to be machined. I have been scouring the web for engine parts. I've checked the TA Performance website and on ebay there is a company called Falcon Global but neither give descriptions of part manufacturers. I've sent emails to ask for details but they don't respond. Has anyone bought Nailhead parts from these companies and is it good quality stuff ? Falcon Global offer various selections of kits and I'd like to go with them because their prices are good and shipping reasonable and all it takes is a push of a button. I've also been to Egge website but find their catalogue very hard to navigate through.
You need to talk to either ... Tom Telesco Classic and Muscle Automotive 465 Glenbrook Rd Stamford, CT 06906-1820 Day Phone 203-324-6045 ET "telriv" on this forum or Russ Martin http://www.centervilleautorepair.com/ I doubt that the sets and pistons you are looking at will be the best thing for your motor. Both these guys can advise you on the RIGHT parts to use.
x2 you are better off contacting Tom or Russ to get the best currently available parts. Tom is more hi-performance oriented if you want the best components. Russ is more hot-rodder/cruiser oriented, and has lots of repo and dress-up items. Carmen Faso is another Nailhead supplier that is highly recommended. He doesn't do internet, you have to call him. I have purchased items from Falcon... some Buick Parts and a kit for my 2001 Jeep, and have been very satisfied. Falcon is actually the e-Bay division of http://www.internalengineparts.com/ You can call them directly to ask who makes the components and 'build' your engine kit. I've bought Dura-bond cam bearings and piston ring sets by Hastings for my Buick at great prices from them. My last build consisted of: Main bearings: old stock from Michigan bearings (eBay). Rod bearings; Clevite (same as 455) Cam bearings: Dura Bond Pistons: New Old stock Zollners are very nice OEM spec. Tom has top-quality forgings avail now, but at higher cost. Forget Egge. Piston Rings: Hastings are made in USA, have great size selection. Gasket sets: Fel Pro, but I use NOS steel head gaskets for more compression. Timing gears/chain: Cloyes, Melling, and Sealed Power offer OEM quality. Oil Pump: Melling Do a search for 'Egge' on this site, and the reviews won't be great. Finally, I will always defer to Tom's opinion since he is older and wiser than I!:grin:
Both TA & Falcon Global are reputable companies to buy parts from for your 401. If it's a stock re-build then Call the Falcon Global number directly an speak with their inside sales guy. They put together killer price packages when you buy the necessary re-build parts in one shot. I recently rebuilt a stock 1976 455 for a guy and the package I needed was: rings, bearings, lifters, valve springs, stock cam, timing set; all USA made and the bill was around $300. I buy any high performance stuff I need from TA.
Still gonna steer you to Tom, Russ or Carmen (who can be reached at 1-716-693-4090). The off the shelf stuff can cause headaches, you'll be better served by someone who has some expertise in the actual builds....
Is it standard practice to have the heads faced with a rebuild, or only if warped ? If using a straight edge and feeler gauge shows no gaps is that OK to put back as is ? Same question relates to decking also please.
Carmen?? Really is he still around?? He used to have the best 455 header gaskets!!! Haven't heard that name in 10 years at least!!!!
Assuming that you have a street car , not a all out competition build.... machine the heads only enough to clean them up,,, if they need it.... not before.... same with the block decks....and the piston bores.....and.... be sure to replace the cam bearings.... do your home work and find the sticky on how to make a cam bearing reamer out of an old cam , so you can do it right.... The cam bearings are the life of your oil pressure... if you build an engine, any engine and dont put in new cam bearings, it will have low oil pressure from the git go.....:Brow: dont ask me how I know , but I do know.... :laugh: also re assemble with good , clean moly grease , and clean hands..... the moly grease will not drain off like the liquid stuff will and will protect the engine at start up , even if it has been months since assembly.... :Brow: Use common engine oil on the rings..... remember what ol Doc says,,,, ''if it aint clean enough to eat out of,, it aint clean enough to put together..''...... :laugh:
The engine will be built stock ( with new cam bearings for sure ) Thanks for your ongoing advice Doc. :TU:
both will work good ,,,, but,,, moly will take the heat and abrasion better.... there is a reason that they came out with moly back in the 60's....
Right, moly rings are porous, hold oil better and have improved scuff resistance when subjected to high heat. They will require a finer finish hone. Cast rings work well as replacements when the engine is reringed and the bores are less than perfect. Here's some info from Hastings: https://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTips/ring_set_composition_recommendat.htm For more opinions, a forum like 'Speedtalk' is a great resource, lots of pro builders there..
Real world observation: Recently removed cylinder head from 56 322 after 85,000 miles. Still had hone marks in cylinders with no ridge. Moly rings. Also cam and lifters showed not abnormal wear. Castrol 20w-50 oil. Mostly high speed cross country driving...summer....a/c...
I'm currently also rebuilding a 1963 401. I have some plans but many other questions. I shot a note to Tom hoping he will help and line me up with some parts or were to get them. Northern Auto Parts has a complete engine rebuild kit with cam for around $1000 but not completely sure about quality of parts. This is important to me to get quality without breaking the bank. What about RA with their Enginetech stuff? -Pistons Cast .030 over best brand? -Rings Moly Hastings -Bearings depending on crank status maybe standard? "name brand" balancing lower! -CAM TA20 or 25? I also know Russ Martin as some to choose from. -Heavier valve springs -timing set standard steel. Is adjustable crank gear (9 keyway) really necessary? -Adjustable push rods are these necessary? -Heads redone port matched to go long with DOC MOD Intake already completed. Thanks Gary
Howdy-This website has been going for about a dozen years and using the search function will give you hours of good reading about your situation. After that- I'd ask questions if needed-good luck
I bought an oil pump re-build kit and having received it, there is no check ball and spring included. Is it essential these parts are replaced ? I would have thought so ----- but maybe not o No:
