You might see a little improvement if you shift earlier with that cam. The power range for your cam is between 2400 and 5500. Bob H.
[video=youtube;z_CxF0MofDw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_CxF0MofDw&feature=youtu.be[/video] this is not the 13.48 run but same night
I have a old 4781-2 holley i will give a try but i read somewhere the hp serie carb is not like hp1000=1000 cfm is it true
You would have to check the numbers to see what size. You may just be too rich. An 850 cfm carb should be about right for your combo. As mentioned your cam may be a little retarded but that doesn't usually hurt the mph. In fact in some cases it can help. I didn't hear anything that would indicate a flat lobe but it sounds kind of lazy like it's a little rich or the timing may be retarded. Keep playing with it, just keep track of any changes you make so you know what helps and what doesn't. Bob H.
How do your plugs look? Did you check them all to make sure one,or more is not fouled? If more than one is fouled,to much gas. Did you get a chance to do a compression test yet? Always eliminate the easy stuff first,before the more involded stuff. The plugs will usually tell you if your running rich or not. I think you may have a cylinder not doing its job,it sounds cool(not sure which car was louder in the video,but cool video),it just isn't running like it should. If you heat those tires up before you launch(when you get it running right)you might just be able to get the front tires off the ground. Check your tuning.
the loudest one is mine I will make a compression test friday ( sorry no time for me thursday ) You say you hear a miss or something
Hard to tell from my computer,but something doesn't sound like it is suppose to,seems like it should roar better? How about the plugs,check those first(all of them,they need to come out for a compression test anyway),and if there is a fouled plug,it might just be a bad wire.And make sure the coil wire is diconnected,and the carb is at WOT when you do the test.(in case you didn't know)Let us know what you find.
Ok let's see the stall is low but mine was because ati gave me the wrong 8" convertor, I had 3.73, 12 bolt w/ mini spool, 74 block with stock rods stok .030 70 comp sealed power pistons, block was milled to -.020 to piston to block clearance, 70 heads milled, stage 1 valves, ported by me, bronze guides, match ported, 107 KB cam, B4B intake, KB roller bushed rockers, 1.6, Big valve reliefs cut in the pistons so big that they entered the 1st ring land so the compression gained by the block and heads might have offset, Fred Catlin 800 Qjet, Stinger ignition, Taylor wires, 1/2" fuel line from cell to regulator, #8 to carb, noticed that car was losing power in 3rd gear and that was the reason for the fuel delivery upgrade, and fuel pressure would drop to 0 in 3rd gear, need to keep the enging temp to below 100 or bottom of temp gauge before burn off, run an alternator to keep the fuel pump and ignition running at full power. Feel free to ask me anything and I will tell you all I can. My 70 Buick Electra with a Highschool rebuild ran 12.21 at 110 MPH. ---------- Post added at 03:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:29 AM ---------- In that video I heard tires sqealing. Was that yours? If it was that's where you are losing alot onf 60 ft. In the begining of this thread you said you had the low compression pistons? That will drop your compession more if you are running aluminum heads since the heat will be less in the combustion area do to the heat transfer of the heads. Your combination will prove the words of a known old time stock Buick drag racer. He told me that if you put aluminum heads on a good engine you would go slower than a stock head unless the flow of that head exceeded the compression loss of the stock head. He said the gain would be in weight. But until you put 70 pistons in that combo we will never know. I would love to put your heads and headers on the the GS that I race and see what happens. It's hard to believe this but if someone has tried it it must be true. ---------- Post added at 03:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:12 AM ---------- I just watched it again and mayby fuel is a part of it. when you hit 3rd there is no accelleration. But your 60 foot times should be 1.49 or better. Unless you are spinning.
Something not right with my setup and I don't no what it is It hook out the hole I will make the compression test and post the result
How about your fuel system? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Do you have jet extenders in the rear of your 1000HP. What is the Innovate telling you?
I don't have any pressure drop I have 1/2 line pickup to holley black pump in a 40 micron filter to the front in a holley regulator to carb I have all the goodie on carb
I was going through your thread and that car should have 1.48 1.5 60 ft times. If the tires aren't spinning on launch you need more convertor. 2.0 is not leaving hard. My convertor in 3rd gear going down the return road about 15 MPH when I floor it shows 5000 RPMs on the tach. That's what I leave the starting line at. I changed convertors once and gained 1/2 a second. But again if the cam is not degreed close to exact than it will not run with the most power. Can you get the video cam in the car so we can see how it reacts inside the car? try to point it at the tach.
compression test done 150psi=8 7=180psi 170psi=6 5=180psi 153psi=4 3=175psi 150psi=2 1=170psi I recheck 3 time I think something bad going on hereuzzled:
Yes,there should only be at the most,10 PSI difference between cylinders,it looks like you have 3 ailing cylinders. You need to do a wet test now,this will tell you if its the rings or the head thats making you lose pressure. A wet test is done by putting some kind of oil in the cylinder.I like to spray WD-40 in the spark plug hole,with the red straw(make sure you hold onto the straw incase it pops off,you don't want that to go into the cylinder).And don't be afraid to get to much in the cylinder,it will burn off when you start it.(about a 20 second blast should be enough,if its a full can with good pressure) You only need to wet test the bad cylinders,if the pressure goes up with the wet test,it means you are losing pressure through the rings.(you don't want this) If the pressure doesn't move much,it means your valves aren't sealing on the seats,which is a much easier fix to take off the heads and have a valve job done,then it is to re-ring it.You might even be able to get away with only having the bad side done,seeing how it is only on one side.
wet compression test done today and its the head I'm from quebec,canada someone know a shop for buick guy in canada
If you had iron heads I'd be suspicious of the valve seats. However, the aluminum heads have hardened seats so unless you have 30,000 miles on that engine or somebody did an incompetent valve job I really wouldn't suspect them. Guides could be going bad which doesn't allow the valve to seat right. The very next thing I'd be having done is a leakdown check to REALLY get an idea what is going on. Better to do that before pullling the heads. How many miles do you have on the engine? 10% from best to worst is the normal range for cylinder cranking compression and you are not too far out of that range. If you truely have 1973 "Stage 1" pistons they have the larger 32 cc dish and coupled with that cam and cylinder heads around 64 cc the cranking compression of 150 psi looks pretty good. I'd say the 180 psi looks too high. I'm thinking you have < 9.5:1 if you only did a cleanup cut on the block. If you have '70 pistons then the compression would be higher by about 1 number at which point the 150 woul look lowish. What could cause a noticable difference between cylinders is if some of the cam lobes are worn which would cause the pressure to rise in that cylinder. You did say you watched the rockers while running, right? You can also get changes in cylinder pressure with hydraulic cams because the lifters start to collapse after too much cranking without starting the engine. Do some more checking before ripping into things.
