This kit would save some weight. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/323605129281
wonder how much saving there is between the al hubs compaired to factory style rotor. i also see there is an almost 3" aftermarket d52 caliper...they are reasonable at 110 each......could be a cheaper upgrade for the weld on kit in rear compaired to the 2.75 that comes with it
Wilwood has a lot of kits. Just make sure it is made to stop a heavier car. I looked at one the other day,but it was recommended for a 2600lb car.
seen those too, talked to ppl over the summer that had then on heavier cars and they say they are storing with no issue. not sure the weight saved is worth the risk. my things about brakes are not how the work when things are right and normal, I want them to over perform when things are going wrong
I'll say it again...You can't use much stopping force on the front of a drag car with small tires. I've used these front and rear since my car was built. Trap speed between 135 and 141 at 3400-3500lbs https://shop.aerospacecomponents.com/4pistonfrontdragracekit67-69camaro.aspx Going to these next. They stop 3200lb / 200 mph cars with little two piston calipers. https://www.tbmbrakes.com/product/67-69-chevrolet-camaro-disc-spindle-spindle-mount-wheel/
by chance anyone know what the OD of the axle tubes of an 8.5 are. that weld on kit fits 3" tubes, has to be close
I really thought about going to 33 since axles which would had taken a different end, which would had allowed an easier bolt on kit selection
140-1017-b is wilwood front light weight kit, under 500 bucks, they have rear too but for 12 bolt, wonder how thick that plate is compaired to the thickness of the drum backing plate????? need to call them and find out
The Wilwood 140-1017 is what I bought from Fernando to use on my Backhalf street car.That's a nice set of brakes.He was over the 2600 lb with his car and said he had no issues at all.I won't be running a power master cylinder either. Was told by many to use the Wilwood master cylinder with 7/8 bore.
Gary, The Aerospace kits states “not for street use”. Is that due to excessive heat? I do a lot of driving. They do work well though.
ok I think I know and have figured out which direction I'm going. for the front going to go with wilwood 140-1017-b. jegs has it on sale now for 488 instead of 649. saves 30ish pounds up front. for the rear going to build my own weld on kit similar and based on the speedway kits. but dropping the cast calipers and going with the wilwood dynalite. after closely looking at all the wilwood kits it's the same caliper they use in bolt on 8.2 & 10/12 bolt kits. this is about 500 with pads. plan is to cut the center out of my old backing plate to use as a shim spacer so axle bearing end play is the same as it is now. only thing I need to figure out is do I use the .81 or 1.25 thick rotors in rear. has no price change. both are 11.75 diameter. I cant figure out wilwood info on these calipers though. I know the dynalite is a 4 piston caliper, site says they are 1.75 piston, they say piston area is 4.8 but if I do the math on 4 1.75" pistons I get double that. I'm missing something then once mocked up I will figure out fittings and hoses needed
Fore 11.75 rear rotors you need to check for caliper to wheel clearance. I have aerospace in my Chevelle. Traps 132-136 at 3900 pounds. Very helpful group of guys there. What is not mentioned here is pedal ratios and pressure which will make or break your stopping power.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...5-x-81-Inch,14004.html?OriginalQuery=91031906 https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Pro-Lite-Vented-Brake-Rotor-11-75-x-1-25-Inch,33067.html both are vented. wilwood has rear kits for 12 bolt chevelle with 12.19 dia and .81 thick with the dynalite calipers. says fits most 15" wheels so I'm hoping the 11.75 give a little more clearance there. plus the hats I was looking at are 3", the wilwood kits are 2". I'm hoping the shocks are not an issue but if so the lower shock mount is easy to address. I need to measure the pedal ratio and figure out the master needed but am going to get this mounted up to verify these will fit, no need to figure that last step out if i end up changing calipers ont what not the might change the volume needed
so got some measurements and such done on an 8.2 rear end that I have in my shop. so it seems with a 3" hat the 1.25" rotor is going to be very very close to the shock mount. the .81 rotor has plenty of room. so now I need to get more specs on the rotors and see what the big difference is, or if it's just wider cooling vanes. I do know the thicker rotor is .75 pounds heavier. if the thicker rotor is going to be used a hat under 2.5" will be a must
Actually, all the weight shifts forward when you hit the brakes and discs are much harder to lock than simple drums. On a street car, 90% of the braking is on the fronts. Can you turn the rotor around in the hat or will it only go one way? A disc brake is so much more efficient than a drum that you probably won't need nearly as much capacity as you think. If the time comes, make sure you use an adjustable prop valve to get your bias correct, especially since it will not be a standard setup.
but street cars normally are not running tires thats only 3 or 4 inches wide, they also normally are not pushing 130 mph on said tiny tires. seen lots of cars slide and find the walls from getting on the brakes too hard at the end of the track
