racecar needs more stopping power

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by Bens99gtp, Dec 27, 2018.

  1. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    I looked at wilwood unit, but it has 2 outside for the front and the adjusting valve for rear.....I would need to plumb this backwards to get the valve for the front.....then need a splitter, and the plug one of the ports that would now be going to the rear
     
  2. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    Reading the description and some of the reviews on the link abive , it appears that the adjustment is to the rear brakes. How would that help when changing to skinnies up front? Wouldn't you need to turn down the front pressure to prevent skinnirles from locking up? Jim
     
  3. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    that's what I need to do........so to use the wilwood part linked above I would have to plumb it in backwards from their instructions scrubbed on the side........

    for my purpose I think I should get rid of the factory block on the side of the frame. its ment for drums and drums work on volume not pressure.......just join them with a simple union for the rear and tee for the front, it a single manually adjusted valve going to front inline with my line lock to the fronts.

    I'm debating on if I should replace the rear line with 3/16" instead of 1/4"
     
  4. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    Keep your existing lines. Remember,when the main line T’s at the back,it’s smaller from there to the caliper.
     
  5. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Excellent! That's the one I was looking for! Thanks for the info. This was for drum/drum cars converted to disk, correct?
     
  6. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    so finially got enough time to get the car back on the rack and get the rear disc brakes fitted and basiclly in minus plumbing and final welding.

    I started by cutting my old backing plates mounting flange out. I did this to not overload the axle bearing......without this the mounting plate would be pushing on the seal by almost .100"

    my rotors and hats are from speedway motors....3" hat and 11.75" x .810 thick and vented. hats were like 30 bucks each and rotors under 40, bolts were like 5 bucks.

    I did notice these hats did not fit over my old stk axle flange but did fit my moser. so a stk flange would either need to turned down or a larger diameter hat used.

    calipers are wilwood dynalite, about 150 each, the brackets came from jegs for 12 each and pads 50. simple bolted caliper to bracket, put pads in, figured out where I wanted to mount to be out of the way from frame, shocks and adjusters,etc. I settled in on the front side of the axle.....test fit the wheels for clearance......used a large magnet to hold in place, non found.

    to center up the caliper, I just applied air pressure to the caliper and once it was holding just tack welded to hold. everything slide and unbolts easily, pads not touching rotor. just down to removing the axles b4 welding to not melt the seals, weld everything up, then run the lines. I will be putting new weld tabs on for the flexible braided lines to just make the installation easier than hard lines all the way to the calipers. these are fixed mounted calipers so flex hoses are not required.

    for under 550 with fitting and brake hose. So far everything went smoot and fast only 2 small issue were if I had stk axles the hats or rotor we need something done......and now once fully welded in place if I ever brake a tee bolt 2 wont be able to be put back in.

    I went with 1.75" pistons. I feel there is enough room if I was street driving I might opt for the larger and thicker 1.25" rotor.......same price
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    the bracket and the tube are now as 1. just finish up the line work, install the new master, drop and engine and trans back in and see how it stops
     
    DasRottweiler likes this.
  8. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    Test it at 20mph before your test it at 120mph.
     
    DasRottweiler likes this.
  9. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    oh yes........several 20s, several 50s. 70s
     
    DasRottweiler likes this.

Share This Page