Alright, i took my carb to school and the shop is letting me use their parts washer, compressed air, and the ultrasonic cleaner, I got everything clean, time for reassembly. Someone who rebuilt his carb before me used silicone to plug up two factory plugs! I bought some JB Weld and pluged them up. Can't wait till I finish, I already miss drivin, and trying to ruin those old tires in the Buick after 2 weeks. CANT WAIT! Should a 350 GS engine be able to leave a nice tire mark by putting the accelerator 3/4 down? Mine just squeels. Thanks
Two words, wheel chocks. My advice, dont burn em off. Because its likely you can have a flat tire and if for some reason you got another, your spare is already used. Or if you burn these off quicker than expected, you have two "extra" tires. So i'd say keep em in your basement or garage. My opinion. Goodluck either way. :TU:
I have had the carb rebuilt for a while now, now I am battleing the problem that I have been posting about here , sputtering. BTW, we are talking about a GS350 with a 455 carb. Today I lowered my float level because I previously had it set for the 455 setting and I could smell gas. Still has the problem after lowering float. I now want to change the primary metering rods and jets because I think its dumping to much fuel in there. So according to the quote from above should I get "350 carb--69 jets 45 rods, BS secondary rods"? For those #'s, is it the smaller they are the bigger the hole? because the 455 st.1 has a smaller # for the holes than a 350. Thanks! Slawek
In the other thread you asked about timing. You should probably set it around 8 degrees. You mentioned getting some "valve knock," which is detonation. Very bad for the health of your pistons!!!! Is the timing mark steady, or does it bounce around? Does it move up smoothly when you rev it up, and come back to where it started? When you rev it and then let off does it drop below that starting point? I ask all this because I think you may have a timing chain problem, so you need to rule that out.
The number, for a rod, is the diameter of the thickest part of the taper. The tips of all primary rods are the same diameter. For the jet, the number is the diameter of the hole. So increasing jet number increases fuel, increasing rod number decreases fuel.
A quick question, is a normal 350 4brrl engine carb without high compression the same as a gs350 carb? Because I am buying a carb from someone, and he said it was 7040244 like I need, but its from a 70 Skylark, Im worried that its not the right one for a 350 gs. is it the same? Thanks Slawek
Slawek, From my research I find that a #7040244 is correct for a 1970 350 ci.Buick 4 barrel motor with Automatic transmission. A #7040245 is correct for a 1970 350 ci. 4 barrel motor with a manual transmission. It does not differentiate for a GS or not. Someone else may chime in with more info for you, I tend to believe the higher comp.GS 350 [SP] block may have come with different jets and rods. The carb # may be correct but it should have some different internals. :Smarty:
