Problems breaking in motor, NEED HELP!

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by 84SilverbirdSE, Aug 22, 2004.

  1. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
     
  2. BirdDog

    BirdDog Well-Known Member

    Your headers should not be glowing red!...unless you really revved it up for an extended period of time. This is an indicator for a lean air:fuel mixture. Fatten up your mixture a little and see if it helps. It also wouldn't hurt to replace your fuel filter, if you can see any dirt in it--it needs replaced. And, if you are using an in-line filter, then remove the brass filter at the carb and put it away somewhere for EMERGENCY USE ONLY.

    If only one header is glowing you may want to recheck your lifter preload and adjust if necessary (if possibe).

    Good luck!:grin: :TU:

    Keep us posted.
     
  3. cacmanjr

    cacmanjr Well-Known Member

    TIMING!

    Severely retarded timing will cause the exhaust to glow red!
     
  4. jbc455

    jbc455 Between cars...

    You might not be 180 off, you might only be one tooth off.

    Mine ran just like yours did (ran real rough, wouldn't idle) when I didn't line up my marks on the timing set. Learned that one the hard way.

    I moved the gear, put everything back together, fired right up. I moved the distributor one tooth to get enough swing.

    John
     
  5. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    John just made a good point............perhaps your valve timing is off...........Being one tooth off will really screw things up good. You can check that without taking it apart:

    Line up your cyl. #1 at TDC, (this has to be done 180 distributor deg. from the compression stroke) and with the valve cover off, check to see if both valves are closed. In other words, just as the exhaust valve closes, the intake valve is just starting to open........this should occur at TDC. By using a breaker bar on the balancer, rock the crank back and forth through TDC and note if the valves are both closed at TDC. I hope my instructions made sense. Good luck! :bglasses:
     
  6. 84SilverbirdSE

    84SilverbirdSE Smokey needed a Buick

    Nailhead, thats how I determined TDC.. I put the balencer to 0* and rocked the balencer back n forth about 5" each way and their was no movement in the #1 valves, so I most positive its at TDC. Then I set up the #1 wire to the rotor and off I went, I did this about 3 times... and the results,,,,,,,,:confused: :Do No: I really TRUST that my macineist did the timming chain and degreeing correctly.

    I keep getting diffrent opinoins....
    set initial to 0*, 10*, 12*, 14*, and +*.....
    and set the total to 30*,32*, 34*, and some to 36*...????

    I spoke to John Ozborn today whit reguards to a carb question and explained to him what problems I was having.... He brought up a very good point! MY ALTITUDE!!!!!!!! I never thought about that... he recomended to set my total to 30* because I live on LI and my altitude is high..which makes sence:Smarty:

    So im shotting for 30* now and not surw what initial to go with:Do No: hopefully someone will chime in soon and have something for me otherwise im off to round 3 in about 25 mins.........:blast: Thanks again guys ~ Vinny
     
  7. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    You missed my point..........you must not do this check on the compression stroke........you need to see if the valves "balance" when you move the crank back and forth at the start of the intake stroke..........now do you see what I mean? That's the only way I know of to check valve timing without taking off the timing cover and actually looking at the marks on the gears.

    I don't think the altitude is your problem, it shouldn't have that much effect on the temperarure of your exhaust. :bglasses:
     
  8. 84SilverbirdSE

    84SilverbirdSE Smokey needed a Buick

    so you are saying, at TDC as I start to move the balencer clockwise again, the intake valve should start to open? Thats where I want to be? Sorry if Im not getting anyones instructions correctly, i can do anything whaen shown but when it comes to readdind it and then doing it, i can get lost sometimes.. and also the fact my buddy thats helping me here is one of those "KNOW IT ALLS" and is never right and hes been throwing me off completly whit his suggestions that are the right way to do it:Smarty: so far, we tried hes suggestions from the 2nd erro and things got worse........... SO NOW ITS MY WAY:rant:
    Again thanks alot ~Vinny ]
     
  9. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

    do the headers glow at idle or when your at 2500rpm ? when i broke my engine in i had three tubes glowing red at 2500. i just let it go and everything was fine.
     
  10. 84SilverbirdSE

    84SilverbirdSE Smokey needed a Buick

    they were glowing aroung 2500
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    If you set your total at 30*, the initial will be dictated by how much mechanical advance there is in the distributor. If you have say 20* mechanical advance, the initial advance will have to be 10*
    The only way to change that is to recurve the distributor. Do you have a dial back timing light? If not, how are you determining your total timing? Did you make a 30* mark on the balancer?
     
  12. 84SilverbirdSE

    84SilverbirdSE Smokey needed a Buick

    yes, i now have a dial back light and i was determining my 30* from the mark i made on the damper.. At least my friend was... I dont know how much i can trust him now... I think hes readding something wrong or doing something wrong because like I said im no pro but at this but we should have got it by now, ya know..
    I didnt get to start it again today i had no time but hopefully tomarrow.... This time i'll have him start it and I'll DO THE ADJUSTMENTS! I think i was the one to start it because i was afraid the he wouldnt keep it the RPM i wanted so i did it, :Do No: i dont know what I was thinking anyway.. if i had a set plan in my head then why did'nt I just do the adjustment?:Do No: anyway i'll post some GOOD NEWS tomarrow:TU: hopefully:(
    Thanks again~ Vin
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Vin,
    If you want 30* total timing at 2500 RPM, that should be easy to achieve. Just leave your dialback set to 0*, and use the mark on the balancer. Block the carb open until you see 2000-2500 RPM. Then aim the timing light at the damper, and line up your 30* mark with the 0 on the timing tab. Is this how it was done? Of course once the cam is broken in, you'll have to determine at what RPM, all your mechanical advance is in. Do you have stock springs in the distributor?
     
  14. 84SilverbirdSE

    84SilverbirdSE Smokey needed a Buick

    with the vac. advance disconnected right?
     
  15. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    That is right.
     
  16. 84SilverbirdSE

    84SilverbirdSE Smokey needed a Buick

    thats what i thought!!!! i really think between me n him someone is reallly off, im not one to blame the person who isnt here to defend themself, i can admit whenever im wrong i have no problem with it but i think hes really set on doing it his way n its wrong..... i dont think he does what i ask him to. whatever im not trying to but blame Im just really frustrated right now and impatiant... I WANNA GET THIS BEAST RUNNING!!!!!!!!!! without damaging the motor... Thanks again ~Vinny ill post tomarrow you guys are a big help:TU: :beer
     
  17. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    Someone please correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think a motor will even run if the timing chain is off by one tooth, even if you compensate by properly setting the spark timing? :Do No:
     
  18. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    It may or may not run. Alot depends on the cam, and which way it's off.
     
  19. BirdDog

    BirdDog Well-Known Member

    Keep in mind that you can get timing chain sets that can change your cam to crank timing by +or- 8 degrees. This is not just for cam degreeing purposes. This is a means for fine tuning an engines power range.

    Advance cam=more bottom end power.

    Retard cam=more top end power.

    So if his gears WERE just 1 tooth off, then the engine SHOULD run just fine...unless the cam was on the edge to begin with and the error was in the wrong direction. But that is a whole nuther can-o-worms.

    Vinny, sounds like you need a different helper, or no helper at all.
     
  20. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    Are you talking crankshaft degrees or camshaft degrees?Wouldn't one tooth equal a lot more than 8 degrees? :bglasses:
     

Share This Page