Problems breaking in motor, NEED HELP!

Today I finally had time to start up my 455 n break it in for the first time. Now, it didnt work out like I expected it to. I had alot of trouble getting it started between priming the fule system and getting it timed right. I must have cranked it over about ten times of about 20 each befor i finally got it to run..I HOPE I DIDNT DAMAGE ANYTHING
Ill skip all of the crap i went thur to get it to run and just explain what wrong now..
I set the timming TDC at 10* on the timming tab and set to the rotor at the #1 wire and this is the way it starts, it takes a few seconds before it actually stars to run though.. Now, the problem is when it starts i have to floor it to keep it running and it only runs at 500 rpms and if i let off it shuts off, i only ran it like this for a few seconds. Im thinking carb problems. I still need to adjust the valve in front of the primaries on top in front of the carb under that aluminum cap, im pretty sure its called A.P.T (adjusting part throttle) it sets the max depth of the metering rod travel whithin the main jet orifice... I think thats most of my problem but I dont know what to adjust it to. The air/fule mix screws in front on the bottom of the carb i just set them in and came out 2 1/2 turns as a base setting. not sure if thats wrong or not but i think thats the minimum of the problems.. I rebuilt this carb with an older friend who use to rebuild Rocky carbs a long time ago so i dont think it was done wrong, he just didnt remember how to adjust that one valve and the instructions that came whit the carb rebuild kit don't say a thing about it.
If anyone understans what I'm trying to explain here and or has ant advice or had very simular probles whit one of their motors please chime in, i NEED HELPou: I want to atempt to run it again tomarrow but not by guessing games.. I feel like I've allready did enough damage from guessing games.... Thanks in advance ~Vinny

 

The APT is not the problem at idle.

First guess: Timing is not correct. Have you had a timing light on it?

 

i havent had it running long enough to time it, even then im not sure what to time it to. Its like i said, i have to floor it in order to keep it running and it satys at 500 rpms, i dont get it.. Im no pro, but I am pretty good and im kinda stuck as to whats going wrong. I just dont want to keep starting n stoping it on break in period. If I can get it to start and run at 2500rpms normally i can make adjustment then. Thanks ~Vinny

 

Hey, I'm not sure what u mean by the question but i rebuilt the bottom end all new bearings and new hyper pistons, the heads had a valve job, glass peened,new guides and exhaust valves, stage one springs,adjustable push rods,bigger cam, dubble roller chain and was degreed,stock intake cleaned and glass peened,brand new distrubitor and exxcell coil, all new gaskets and rebuilt the carb. I hope this answers your question.. Thanks ~ vinny

 

ok, its an HEI distrubitor and i think ive got that part right.

My fule pump is machanical and brand new i know that works cause of the inline glass filter.,

As far as the timming, this is the 3rd or 4th time i rotated it 180*. i know im right on now. I brought #1 up to TDC and checked the intake and exhaust valves for no movement and this is when it finnaly started. I have it set at 10* on the tab and I dont remember if I tried it on the zero mark after I found true TDC.. I dont think I did.

 

and i know perfectly what you guys are saying ive thru this a hundred times with my other motors, but i still have this funny feeling the biggest problem is comming frome the carb.
From most of my experences with carbs, their problems will throw you off completlyou: youll think theirs something wrong with timming, tranny, or something else when it was the carb to begin whit... im gonna mess whit the timming some more though.... Do ya think starting and stopping the motor like this will damage anything???

 

Pull a valve cover off. Verify the NO1 intake valve closing while turning the crank. Keep turning untill the timing mark on the balancer is at TDC-10 BTDC. Set the rotor to point at to no1. on the cap. This way you will know you are not 180 degrees out. [The crank turns 2x to 1 for the cam]. I'd pull the plugs and clean them. Chances are you fouled a few. Pour 1 oz. of fuel down the carb. It should fire up & keep it runnning for the breakin. Don't worry about setting the timing. The breakin is what's important. If it don't run come back to the board. Some one will figure it out. That's my 2cents.:3gears:

 

Thats what I did. Im gonna dubble check it tomarrow and mayby move the distibutor 180* if it dosent work. Ill check the plugs to make sure their not fouled, thats a good idea:TU:
Im gonna see if one of my local stores have that tool to adjust the carb too.. Ill let you guys know how I make out..

Oh yeahh, I have my spark plug gap set at .080 not sure if this is correct for my set up. Im just going by a buick repair book I have and for HEI it calls for .080 gap... This could be a problem if its way off. Anyone know if this is correct???

Again, Thanks alot for the quick responces everyone here is such a great help!!!!! :beer ~Vinny

 

I'd try a gap around .050.

 

Ditto, .080 is too much.

 

Do you get tons of black smoke out the exhaust when it is running? It sure sounds to me like its flooding with fuel from your discription. Are you sure the cam in timed right? Are you running a full 12 volts to the HEI? I mean is it wired to the resistant wire from the points setup? If so than the ignition is not working correctly. I didn't read all the replys so if I asked something you have already checked I am sorry. Tom

 

Check all spark plug wires to make sure they are in correct places. If you are only getting 500 rpm at full throttle, then it sounds like something ignition related....probably timing.

 

Sounds to me like you are only firing on one or two cylinders.........check your firing order, make sure your plugs are not fouled, and also, how old is the gas in your tank? Old gas will foul plugs and not be volatile enough to start a cold engine. You could try a blast of ether (starting fluid) in it after cleaning your plugs.........don't use a wire brush, either sandblast them or install new ones. Wire brushes leave metal deposits on the plug that will cause misfiring. :bglasses:

 

OK, i just pulled the plugs and their wet as hell. im gonna go n but new plugs and gap em at .050, i hope this is correct.

The voltage to the dist should be 12 volts, it the same line from the old 301 motor whit HEI.

As far as the gas.. I cleaned out the tank about 1 1/2 monts ago and i filled it yesterday whit fresh gas for the start up.. alot of dirt got caught in the filter but not enought to cloge it .. I have 2 filtes on the line.. 1 before the carb and the stock one in the carb...

Ok, IM GOING INN>>...:blast: WHISH ME LUCK!:TU: ~ Vinny

 

Be sure to flush the old gas from the fuel lines in case you didn't. It will get on the new plugs and screw them up too. :bglasses:

 

Man oh man, i dont know what it is.. I;ve never hadf such a problem timming a motor befor, i dont get itou: Itsd gotta be something sooo small that im over looking and it really:af: me..

I went out and bought new plugs and gaped em at .060 this time. By the way im using ACdelco plugs R45TSX.. Are these correct?
heres what I did today. Installed new plugs and gap, set the damper to 10* and then lined up the rotor to the #1 wire. She started whit a little bit hesitation but got going.. My buddy advanced the dist untill it sounded like it was clearing up and the we ran out of room, the vac canister was going to hit the fanou: .. So we did it again but with the rotor pointing more towards the #1 piston so we had more room to advance.. Its started to run ok but still didnt sound correct.
So now we went back and did everything over but whit the damper at 12* and it ran pretty good. hooked up the vac and total was about 30*-32*, im going by the 1.75 mark i made on the damper. Now, like I said it was fine.. Untill the passenger side headder started GLOWING RED!!:shock: DAMN< we though twe had it . I know the timming is still screwed up but seeing that GLOWING headder leads me to beleive the the fule mixture is also wrongo No: I really cant figure it out.
im gonna try again tomarrow....o No:

 

Sell me the car

 

IF you have points, make SURE your condenser is grounded with a screw....

 

I can't help you with the glowing headers, I never ran them. However, if you were working in the dark, I would be inclined to believe that is normal as long as the motor runs good.

Don't feel bad, the first time you start a rebuilt motor you are bound to have troubles, especially if you are an amatuer mechanic. I remember 30 years ago when I first started my first motor, it was a 425 nailhead............the front cam bearing was too tight and spun, and the lifters wouldn't fill b/c the front bearing supplies the oil to the heads and lifters. We ran it for over 1/2 hour! We also overheated it really bad b/c I used the plugs over (yes, it was missing b/c I cleaned them with a wire brush:grin: ) Amazingly enough, that camshaft lasted well into another 100,000 miles with no problems and was broken in with only the oil that splashed onto it from the crank. You always learn from your mistakes and will be all the better for them the next time around.

As long as you didn't forget to put oil or coolant in it and light up the idiot lights you should be OK.

I think you'll find that if you are patient with it, it will run better as time goes on and you have time to tweak it. Listen for strange noises and wait a few hundred miles before you beat on it. I have found that they run a little better after they have been driven around for a few hundred miles.........give her some time to break in, it'll smooth out. :bglasses:

 

you want to make sure the number one cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke the damper should read "0"and then line up the number one wire on the cap and go from there . if you wire it right it should start right up .