Power window blues

Discussion in 'Sparky's corner' started by Atbb, Aug 22, 2016.

  1. Bad Boattail

    Bad Boattail Guest

    Jens, this is for model year 1973, when there was no Skylark based A-body anymore.

    So maybe it's different for a model year 1971 GS, let's wait for more replies :TU:

    But on the other hand: drilling a hole isn't really that hard to do :beer
     
  2. Atbb

    Atbb Well-Known Member

    Right againknow what my greatest fear is? Being stuck with a non-moving vehicle.I know it`s absurd, and our cars are so good to work onstill, I`m afraid of doing something so wrong I can`t make it undone.ok, I stop here before I loose what`s left of my hot rod credibility, haha.
    Totally right, drilling a hole is no big deal, I do it on walls without thinking twice(no, I do think twice, at least, but I DO it), should do it here just the same!

    Thanks for your help and patience

    Jens

     
  3. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Did you ever check for broken wires in between the body and door like Jim mentioned? That's is the first thing I would of checked
     
  4. Atbb

    Atbb Well-Known Member

    Hi Jason,

    as far as I could check on it, there was nothing wrong with the cables in the boot region. In threat no. 15 I reported that I had power on all the socktes in the pw connector. I ALWAYS have power on those 3 other windows be it with each single switch or the master pw switch on the driver side. I`ve read that this most likely means no damage to either relay or circuit breaker(anybody know different?).what comes and goes is only the driver side window (in the link I posted it says it is either wire, motor or switch then). Is the driver side window powered differently than the other windows in the master pw switch on the driver side? Does it have an extra (set of) cable(s) in the harness?

    If so, I`d have to check on this cable in the boot, if not, it means power gets to the connector all the time and, as it somtimes comes, most of the time is absent, the problem would be in the connecting pad.???

    My friend Jrg`s master pw switch workedI`ve ordered a new one, MAYBE that`s the bug I`ve been afterseriously, I doubt it! Would be too good

    Jens

     
  5. Atbb

    Atbb Well-Known Member

    You live, you learn..found my 1971 Buick manual, coundn`t find the chapter about the power window stuff.realized there is a chassis manual (I got that one) and body manual (I`ll have it in a few days now, never realized there was another important manual for our cars!).

    Thanks for the hint, Erik

    Switch didn`t work, whenever the window is in full up/full down position it seems to get stuck as if the motor doesn`t make enough power, you can free it by banging on the pannel a few times.still chasing it, getting closer!

    Jens
     
  6. Atbb

    Atbb Well-Known Member

    Did it! Was the window motor, everthing else ist ok. Did order a refreshed one, drilled the holes, used the screws in the new engine for a template where to drill ( you can see the lower of the 3 in the door, you put over your template, and voila, more or less, a hit!). Did circumcise the locations with a small drill, next a bigger, than milling the rest. Worked best for me that way, you can keep the extra holes small and exact, not slicing the inner door too much

    I did hold the window and the mechanism in place by using 3 wedges putting them in above, saw that on youtube with a 1979 Firebird or so! Worked great.

    Thanks for your input, your help and opinion that brought me there !

    Jens

     

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