Hi, I`m having trouble with my driver side power window. Somestimes it works, sometimes it doesn`t. JUST the driver side window, all other 3 windows work flawless from the master power switch. Was about to just buy another switch when I tought it might be a good idea to just check on all the material. Here are my thoughts and some pics: Since it sometimes works/sometimes doesn`t, I`m pretty sure the window engine itself isn`t the problem. I disassembled the door panel, jiggled on every cable going to the power switch, to the window engine, through the door negative, didn`t get any feedback. Was almost as with a computer, you get the impression if the system starts correctly, it works, if fit doesn`t start, it`s dead. Any known problems with the relay? If the fuse was blown, the other 3 shouldn`t work neither, right? Can anybody instruct me how to check on the window engine ? Where do I have to put the power? What source? Direct 12 V, secured with 10 or 20 A? Than there`s the receiving pad, the black one with the holes you put the power switch in. If I would like to check it for function, where would I have to put the power? Any help appreciated Jens
Usually the issue is around the boot where the wires pass from the body to the door. Use the window while opening and closing the door.
Try the switch on one of the other window motors, if that works well: Take the driver's side window motor out and put new grease in it :TU:
Thanks for your repliesto check the cables all the way, do I have to get rid of the kick panels in the foot compartment, Jim? Where do those wires come in, do they plug in the fuse box? Boattail, as I want to check on the master power switch, can I really just use the singe units from the other 3 windows? No grounding issues or anything, does this really work? Jens
Ok, had my friend Jrg over here last night (thanks a lot!) to try his master power switch from his 72`convertible.everything works fine with his switch..problem was, mine started working as well again, as described above. I suspect either corrosion that has been improved by changing the switches or, like Jim wrote, an internal cable problem. I had the whole unit dangling down in the door for a day, maybe this fixed some not so healthy cable (temporally) that might be broken inside the isolation Time will tell Jens
Still working on it. ok, had the master power switch opened up, I could open and close all windows under sight of contact. But, like before, even though there`s contact in the no. 1 position, nothing happened. Either there`s no power flow to the switch in that position (which, IMHO, would indicate a problem with the cables, most likely in the boot section like mentioned by you guys) or the engine itself is not working properly. So here`s my question : Please check out pic no. 1, you see the black and blue cable, both of which go the the window motor (to the left side). Am I right if I say, to check the engine I`ll have to put 12 V to it. Is one of those cables the grounding (most likely black )? Would it work if I`d put 12V on the blue one, and ground the black one ? I think by checking this I`d narrow down the source of the problem. What do you think ? Jens
The boot area between the door and the door jam on the drivers side receives the most flex over time. If the driver's window is intermittent, with the ignition switch on, hold the window switch down and move the door so it opens and closes. The window motion should start and stop with the flex of the wires in the boot.
Hi Jim, exactly what I thought and triedbut the problem is not reproductible so far. Either something snapped/broke thouroughly or it it has a different origin. I had my lock-up function activated not long ago, the mechanic has gotten the power from somewhere down there under the dash, I`ll have to check if this might cause the problem as wellbut then, those two functions worked flawlessly togehter for weeks. But I`ll double check on the door and boot zone. Jens
Jens, do you add those HTML codes yourself or is it something that happens when you make a new post? o No: If you do it yourself, you can make posting much easier when you open the post by typing the codes, write the actual text and close the codes. In the example below you open and close the codes for every sentence, and sometimes even to add nothing but a space. I noticed that posts #7 and #9 are in the regular (bigger) size and font :TU:
Hi Erik, don`t know how this is happening, I can`t see it either on my screen, I`m sorry. You suggested to take out the window motor, can I just go for it or do I have to take care about something falling off if I take those screws out ? Jens
Hi, went on with my diagnosis, made some pretty interesting observations and would like to hear your opinons on it: Removed the power switch from the board (shown in the picture) ALL sockets where having some 12V Disconneted the window engine and put a 12 V motorcycle battery on it- initially, it didn`t move, all of a sudden, it did, up or down depending on selection of one of the two contacts Checked on the blue and blue/black cables goint from the board to the window engine- they pass the power (Positon J&H on the board) Reconnected the master power switch, and for some time, like 1 minute, everything worked as if no problem was there what so ever .and then Window engine stopped working all of a sudden, even hot-wiring it as described under No. 2) didn`t work any more Position J&H on the pad, those transmitting the power to the engine, didn`t have any power, while all others still had. The 0 V was with the cable disconnected to the engine Position J&H on the pad, those transmitting the power to the engine, showed nearly no, but still a liitle flow with 0.12 V with the cable connected to the window engine So, what do I make out of this? Please remember, first time I`m around that subject, no idea if what I`m writing down as a hypothesis makes (any) sense : Some major problem in the window engine causes a short circut, further back this causes a fuse or something with this function (relay??) to shut down the power (as it returns from time to time, it might be something like a bi-metal device?). IF the problem was only with the relay, why would that engine stop working, even being hot-wired? On the other hand, if a short causes a fuse/relay to react, it would re-engage after some time if it`s not the kind of device that gets destroyed when being confronted to the short circuit, and that`s what`s happening. Please let me know what you think, or what else to check. Jens
I`m trying to figure out why there`s no power on position H & J? 1)How does the power come to the black remote pad, is there only one power cable delivering to this pad (maybe position C ) ? If so, which color is it (the red/ white stripes one)? 2) Why do all the other windows work and have power on sockets in the the master switch pad but not the direct driver side window? 3)What is the function of the power window relay? I`m getting to believe that`s where (one of )the problem(s) might be.. Next time, only manual windows in my classic car
Ahhhh, I`m getting crazyok, like Jim already suggested, more likely a cable problemmaybe even IN that black remote pad of mine. Guess I`ll have to pry it open Check this here, I like the way he goes through this power window stuff.. http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-20.htm
Any help appreciated..can I just swap that window engine or do I have to fear that preloading spring many people talk about in their threads? Still confused Jens
Buy a Fisher Body Manual for your car :TU: On my 1973 E-body I could take out the window motor without any trouble, but this is what it says about the little A-body Buicks: From the 1973 manual:
Oh Erik….I have it back home somewhere, couldn`t find it after moving to the new place. Shame on me for not checking it out, should always be the first step. This sounds like a serious procedure…damn !
