!!PLEASE HELP!! All original 70 skylark 350 will not Start at all!!

When i first got the car the transmission was bad and it would start but only after choking it a good litlle bit and it idled very high. Any way I pulled the transmission and the car set for a few months. Then I finally got a new 200 tranny (I know they suck but I cant find a 350 Turbo with the Buick Bolt pattern) and put it in.

But back to the engine, I replaced the air filter, fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, cap, rotor button, condensor, coil, points, put some seafoam cleaner in the gas, oil and oil filter with lucas oil treatment, pcv valve and put a little breather where my oil cap would go.

After all that my car wont start it turns over but doesnt sound like it wants to fire. I set my points on .17 and gaped my plugs at .040. I think that my problem is in the timing because the car keep back firing back through the carb.

Also if anyone has an original 70 skylark with a 350 and the original points and cap and coil could you please send me a picture of what wires would go on the coil?!?!?

Please help with whatever info you can give me.

 

That gap is a little too wide for points. I think its like .032 You have a black wire from the points set to the neg side of the coil and a red wire from the ignition Is it possible you have the plug wires crossed? Check the coil to see if you have spark? chances are you crossed a wire or two. Make sure you know which way the distributer rotates and check every wire.

 

Sorry to hear about your problems.

Pull a spark plug wire and plug, to see if you are getting spark when it is cranking. Don't shock yourself though, let it sit somewhere.

You can also use a timing light while you are cranking. See if you can see the timing mark while cranking.

The negative from the coil should go to your points.

This can be a starting point. Hope you figure it out.

 

Sounds like the timing might be too far advanced as well... or you have the wires going to the wrong places in the distributor cap. Did you take the distributor off or move it when you changed the points?

When you crank the engine over, does it rotate at a certain speed, then repeatedly "chug" (fast/slow/fast/slow)? If so the timing might be too far advanced.

 

Yeah it does the quick slow thing. I checked and im getting fire from the coil to the cap and then i check fire on the first plug wire.

Qucik question. Is the odd plugs on the driver side and the even plugs on the passenger side??

Also should my whole distributo be able to move?
I can grab the base plate thing where you mount the points and distributor and turn it a good half t full inch?!?!

 

Driver side is odd plugs- that is where #1 plug will be. At least that's where it is on my Buick 300- I will assume that all Buick small blocks are configured the same.

The whole distributor (outer casing) should not move unless you have loosened the distributor clamp bolt below the distributor.

The base plate you mount the points to should be attached to the vacuum advance, and should not move at all by hand....unless you force it against the vacuum advance mechanism- that would take quite a bit of effort.....so that is kinda weird. It's not just freely moving back and forth, is it? Sounds like your vacuum advance is not attached to the base plate properly, or the advance unit is busted. If so, this could easily cause the timing to be way off.

If the engine is chugging like that during start, it's a pretty good bet that the timing is off, and probably too far advanced.

Re-check everything- it could be more than one thing, since you had it all apart. Check plug wire sequence, and make sure that the #1 plug is actually in the right cap terminal (it is possible that you have all the plug wires in the cap in the right sequence, but have #1 plugged into the wrong distributor cap terminal, causing all the plugs to be off by one..).

 

yeah hopefully someone near could come by and help.
But until them im just gonna double check everything that youll have told me to do and hopefully it will start this time. I really hope so!

Thanks for everyones help it is greatly appreciated.
I will let youll know if it starts.

 

It's not moving freely but it sure doesnt take much to move it tho. I can take one hand and grab the base plate and turn it. The vacuum advance moves along with it also. Should i go ahead and replace the vacuum advance anyway?

 

ok lets try to start from scratch. pull the number 1 spark plug. hold your finger over the hole till air comes out with someone Cranking it then line the balances mark up with 0 on the timing tab. check Rotor position it will be where number 1 is firing it will face your passenger fender. make sure the top of the cap plug wire ir on the Rotor point. wire ht 18436572 clockwise. then crank it if it still pops loosen the hold down and have someone crank ht while you turn the distributor till it starts. around 6 degrees will be ok to start out if you don't have a light just rev it up every time you turn it till it Revs good and fast . good luck

 

i agree. we need to wait for an update befoRe we make his head explode with information

 

Hay daddy. If you need a good 350 tubo trans i have one. I just live north at Williamstown KY.

 

I checked my wires with the v8 Buick diagram I have and my 2nd and forth wires were crossed but i changed them and i'm still not getting the car started. I checked to see if i was getting fire at the first plug wire and it was good. I also checked the plug wire that goes to the distributor it was good also.
I put a circuit tester light on the coil with one end on the negative terminal of the battery and when i touched the + end of he coil it barely lit up, like all it did was get the filament red and then i put one end of the circuit tester on the positive terminal of the battery and when i touched the - end of the coil it lit the light up very well. I dont know if that means anything i was just mentioning it.

 

How much you want for the 350 Turbo and is it the bucik/old/pontiac bolt pattern?

 

try running a jumper wire from battery to coil positive did you change the condensor? tighten the points up half a turn at a time if you didnt mess the timing up it should start

 

I'll take $50.00 for it. It's out of a 76 regal, that had a 350 engine. Has been rebuit, was working fine when I pulled it out 5 years ago.

 

put your test light on the negative of the coil and crank it the light should pulse if not the points are miS Adjusted i set mine at .17 once and it gave me crazy problems til i set it to 30 with a dwell meter had to tighten it up about 4 rounds to 30 . set timing to 8 initial no more problems. if the jumper wire fixes the problem get a ballast resistor and hook it up to a key on hot and to the coil positive your resistor wire may be bad. but i doubt it. the positive is dim till the points ground them its brigt then no power on neg of coil. the points is what triggers the coil