Well done Greg, nice organization and forethought. I kinda just jumped into mine and learned real fast. I like the pic of all the parts laid out, one day I may be that organized! Good luck, drop me a line if you have any questions and pop me an Email about the Nats - we might actually hook up this year.
I think that when its all done, your progress pictures should become a Sticky so everyone can use them for reference. Great pics. :3gears:
Ok Greg.... so on a scale 1-10 how hard is it? Is it worth it? I think it would be. If I get this Skylark(1972) right near my house, I'm gonna put a 4-speed in it. :3gears: Anthony
Greg, I looked at the pictures again. I see your shifter, handle and linkages are of a generic style. The handle part that you see looks to be close to the orignal shape, rods are a bit small and the arms that bolt to the transmission are a bit odd. I can't really see the shifter to trans mounting bracket clearly to see if it is right. I am also real impressed with a few of those nice aluminum parts on the floor beside your car. That car is gona be a riot to drive.
I just did mine....Estimate about 50 hours total to disassemble and put everything back together. Nothing is really hard, just time consuming. :laugh:
Anthony, so far I would have to say about a 1, but the hard work is just begining. Also, I have had this car totally apart except seperating it from the frame. So it is comming apart again easily unlike a car that has been together for 30 sum years. Its not to early to say it is worth it. Reg, thanks for looking over my pics closely. I know what you mean, I have some seen some very meaty shifter rods before. The shifter and trans came together, so I am comfortable they work together. Bob (buickgsman) had them in his car, maybe he will comment about there origin. I was wondering who was going to spot my aluminum trinkets in the pic. Good eye. It will be interesting to see what driveline parts break first from the extr torque. The flow numbers are really very promising The heads and intake arrived the week before last but the 4 speed swap comes first. I am a 4 speed man to the bone. You mentioned getting together at the Nats, If its BG thats cool, it was my fault we didnt get together in Salem last year. Dinner and brews are on me. Bob, I did remember about the adjustable ball stud, actaually searched for that thread last week, thanks for the reminder, I hadnt thought about having to disassemble it all if I needed it though. Going to get it on order tomorrow. Dan, thanks for your support now and in the past, it means alot. We are a tight knit little group of gear bangers here in our little section of V8buick. Seems like a Nats get togther is in order for all of us. Paul, I am not suprised about the time it takes, I am definately not in a rush, I actually take more time doing things anymore. Plus I already have noticed a couple of things that are going to sidetrack me and add some time. One is those guages under the dash, they have to go.
Tonight I got the car up in the air. Started underneath with removing the driveshaft. Got in a bit of a hurry and thought the the drain pan was behind me. It wasnt.
You are using a tail shaft plug aren't you? Slip the small end of the plug in the tailshaft for drip free piece of mind.
Everyting underneath still looks good. Lots of hours with an electric drill with a wire brush before fresh semi-black paint during the restification. Some overspray is present, I think that is enevitable during a complete body paint job. The frame rails have quite a bit of white paint on them as well as the wheel wells. They will have to be repainted semi flat black. Here is the auto shifter linkage, just pull the cotter pin, I have an assortment of picks for just such an occasion. Remove the clip holding it to the TH350 bracket bolted to the pan and pull the cable and grommit down and out. Looks like it is going to be close dropping the TH350 down between the M/T Super Scavenger headers. They are scheduled for repalcement, but not until the head swap project.
Go ahead and take a sec and put the U-bolt straps, nuts and lockwasher back on so they dont get kicked or misplaced and lost. It will be awhile before we need them again.
Loosen the parking brake cable and seperate the front wire from the back. Remove the speedo cable. Remove the bolts to the Trans to crossmember bracket. Remove the crossmemeber to frame bolts. Put a floor jack and a block of wood under the trans pan and lift just enough to take the weight off the crossmember. Slide the crossmember twoards the rear still on the frame rails out of the way. In this pic you can see how the crossmember had to be modified for the collectors of the M/T Super Scavenger headers. For the TH350 the crossmember was in the most forward holes. I wonder if the crossmember will have to be further cut to clear the collectors when its slid back for the 4 speed.
Greg, we will get together at the Nats this year, It will Happen! There will definitely be lots to discuss and a few drinks too. As for your question of crossmember location change, as I remember it the crossmember will not move at all, should be exactly the same holes (THM350 to muncie). Here is a pic of the Buick shifter and linkage (70 -72 vintage).
Greg, I went back and looked at your 1st pic again. You have a new speedo cable. Was that passed on to you or how did you decide on it, the length and where it came from? I have been using a right angle adapter and the orig speedo cables. Also how 'bout a closeup pic of yor consolette boot, I would like to see how it compares to the Year One parts. Is the center hole round and how thick is the rubbber base flange? Some aftermarket boots with thick rubber base flages are hard to install in the consolette - one of mine was. PS : It took a bit but you must have a few pieces hidden from your 1st pic - new trans mount and clutch fork clevis pin. I'm just gettin picky now!! :Brow: Again, nice work and pics, this thread will be keeper. Reg
The clips to hold the rods on and the wave washers to tighten up the rods are still available from GM. If anyone is interested, I can post the part numbers. Also, the rubber bushing for the back drive rod and the white plastic bushing for the reverse rod on the frame are also available from GM. LMK One thing that I found out on my swap is the 4 speed back drive rod that runs from the frame to the steering column is about 1" longer than the auto rod. This rod is actuated by the shifter, and when you put the car in reverse, it locks the column and puts the back up lights on. I posted earlier that M&H makes the reverse light switch for $29.
Reg, The speedo cable was passed on to me. Make that unusual 68 and 69 rods, I just checked out my assembly manual and it shows it just like that. So that is what old throw-out bearings are for, holding up transmissions p 68's are old school with the key in the dash and no locking column, so no lock out linkages will be required, but if i did needed them Michael's would be the ones to use for sure. I was thinking I could use my TH350 trans mount, They arent the same? I should by a new one though. Clevis pin is around somewhere. I think Dave included it with the parts. And keep getting picky, I want all the help and suggestions you can give. I will get you the boot pics tomorrow. you talking about the one that is loose in the pic? Or the one that is mounted in the consolette already? The mounted one does have a retcangular opening in the boot like the shifter. Is the first pic the shifter repro's from Dave. I heard he was going to make them but I never heard any more about them being completed. Didnt think I needed them but you never know. Are they still available? Paul, please do post the GM part numbers. All part numbers are always a good reference tool. Someone will need them sometime.
Greg, yep it is pics of the consolette boot I am interested in. No need to take it apart to get the thickness of the bottom rubber flange. Where did you buy yours, sounds like a better one than mine. You are right about the trans mount, you could use your old THM350 one if you had too. The first shifter pics were not Dave's but he is now doing most of those parts now I believe.
