Operation 4 Speed Is Underway

Discussion in 'U-shift em' started by Davis, Apr 5, 2005.

  1. Davis

    Davis Moderator

    Reg, The boot came with the console from Bob (buickgsman), I bought out his setup when he lost his mind for a short period and put in an 4 speed auto trans :error:

    Did you find you had to use the adjustable ball stud as well with Daves fork and the stock bellhousing?
     
  2. SunBuick

    SunBuick Member

    On the 5 cars I did, the stock bellhousing stud was used - no clearance or alignment issues. It was a bit worn on some but I used it that way.
     
  3. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    Part Numbers

    68" Speedo Cable - 88959477 For 68-72 manual shift cars

    Clips for shift rods - 12338114 Also used on the reverse rods too

    Z bar and pedal bushing - 406172 Upper bushing and pedal bushing

    Wave Washers - 9428369 Used to take out play in the linkage

    Lock out rod bushing (upper) - 1394293 On the steering column

    Bushing, reverse linkage (on frame) - 1377083 On the "L" shaped rod

    GM has discontinued the rubber bushings on the shift linkage. Theses are being reproduced.

    HTH :TU:
     
  4. SunBuick

    SunBuick Member

    Paul, that is unfortunate on the shifter rubber bushings. They are the key item for me.

    Anyone have an aftermarket source for these?

    My next challenge will be getting them, I may have to ask a favour and get them shipped to a US address. Sometimes that Canada border is a real pain!
     
  5. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    If you call the Hurst repair folks, they will tell you who reproduces the slotted rubber bushings. They told me that someone in Ohio named George Cerio (sp??) was making them for Pontiacs.
     
  6. MikeL

    MikeL Well-Known Member

    One thing I haven't seen addressed is if there may be a problem with the crankshaft accepting the standard GM pilot bearing for the manual trans. When I did this conversion using my 300, the crank was drilled about .015 too small for the bushing so I had to have it (the bearing) machined down. Someone told me that the crank was automatic specific from the factory but maybe the big blocks were drilled to accept both. Something to look at.
     
  7. Davis

    Davis Moderator

    Be prepared to make a mess.

    Loosen to the top 2 bellhousing bolts from under the hood before you raise the car up. It was actually easier to loosen the drivers side bolt while standing over the passenger side fender and vice versa. The fill tube bracket is attached to a bellhousing bolt. I pulled it loose from the transmission and let it dangle.

    A bellhousing bolt is torqued to 35 ft lbs, why it took a 1/2" pnuematic impact wrench to remove it is beyond me, but it did. Luckily it was the bottom one.

    I cheated on turning the flex plate to get to the 3 torque converter bolts. I have a remote solenoid mounted to the firewall. So I was able to connect my remote starter switch, It had enough cable to dangle over the fender so I could look underneath and bump it until the bolt and nut was at the bottom and accessible.

    Support the motor, It will tilt backwards after the transmission is removed.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 11, 2005
  8. Davis

    Davis Moderator

    The headers were definately in the way. They are a just bit wider than the pan, so as the bellhousing gets wider up top it hit trying to lower ithe transmission.

    I loosended the drivers side header, both pipes had to be disconnected from the collectors to remove the crossmember. There was no way to slide the crossmember past the exhaust to get it out of the way.

    The trans jack allowed the transmission to be tilted sideways which allowed it to slide down between the headers.

    This made for a different problem, once the trans was lowered in a tilted fashion it put stress on the adjustor and made it hard to to level back out. Now the trans would not slip out under the exhaust to get it from under the car.

    I raised the car as high as I could but the 3" pipes still wouldnt allow it to pass by. I had the trans lowered and pulled back as far as possible. A H or X pipe would have even complicated things even more.

    Exhaust manifolds would have posed no interference or headers with a less longer collector would have caused a lot less grief.

    Here is a pic when the trans was just on its way out from the bellhousing before the real fun began. I wasted as much time trying to get the trans out from under the car as getting it loose.

    Finally a little persuasion pulled the trans off the jack in its lowered state onto the floor. I just drug it out from under the car and It was finsihed.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Davis

    Davis Moderator

    I dont think we can call this car an automatic any longer.

    About 19 hours into this project so far.

    The crank is drilled for the pilot bearing, just a little spotty rust is present in the cranks pilot hole.

    The bearing specs are 1.094" dia.

    The bearing mic'ed at 1.092". The mics wouldnt reach into the depth of the hole to measure its I.D.

    Placing the pilot bearing at the opening it held it in place without any help. Looks like it will tap in.
     

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    Last edited: Apr 11, 2005
  10. 73BuickGS455

    73BuickGS455 A Long Restoration

    Looking good Greg. But I think I'm just gonna get one with the 4-speed for now. lol.

    Anthony
     
  11. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    Took my car out Sunday after the 4 speed conversion. All I can say is..... :beer :beer :beer :beer :beer :beer :beer :beer :beer !

    The M21 I have was converted to M22 specs. What a nice gear sound.

    The car has a totally different personality now.

    Very happy with the outcome.
     
  12. SunBuick

    SunBuick Member

    Greg, nice work so far. You have hit a few extra hurdles than I had.

    I have MT SS headers on my Suncoupe and we able to leave them in place for an entire conversion. I do have a hoist, all headers seem to fit a bit different as well.

    The pilot hole issue has never come up for me as well, the 350 and four 455's I have done were all drilled for it. I have also not had a block yet without the Z-bar hole - just lucky I guess!

    Keep the updates and pics coming!

    Paul, do you have any pics or details on your finished car. Consolette, type of shifter used, what parts....
     
  13. Floydsbuick

    Floydsbuick Well-Known Member


    :3gears: :3gears: :3gears: :3gears: :TU:
     
  14. buickgsman

    buickgsman Well-Known Member

    Greg, that shifter was a Competition Plus I bought new from Jegs I believe it was. I think I ordered it for a 67 chevelle with console, which gives the correct offset for the shifter and chrome stick. Worked beautifully for me!!! I upgraded the plastic bushings to the metal ones, so you will never have any problems with it.

    Bob
     
  15. Davis

    Davis Moderator

    Pilot bearing went in smooth, I had a piece of bar stock that fit in the end of the crank nicely and drove it straight.

    Flywheel wasnt to bad to lift up, dont think you are going to slip it right on the flange. shoot for getting it to stick so you can hold it with one hand and reacj for a hammer with another.

    Check out how the crank is drilled on the back to balance it, then coordinate it with the crankshaft weight, it only goes on one way.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. sparkplug

    sparkplug Well-Known Member

    4 speed linkage

    Can someone send me a link to Mike garrisons aftermarket 4 speed stuff please? Thankyou Randy. :Do No:
     
  17. Davis

    Davis Moderator

    Matched pressure plate, The wear pattern you see on the flywheel is from this disc and pressure plate. Mark them before you seperate the two.

    Sparingly with the grease so as not to have it run on the driven surfaces when it heats up.
     

    Attached Files:

  18. David Hemker

    David Hemker Well-Known Member

    Most 75 & 76 455 blocks do not have the ball stud hole. To best of my knowledge 4 speeds were not available with the 455 in those years. I had to drill my 75 block when I put it in my conv.
     
  19. Kelly Eber

    Kelly Eber I'd rather be racing

    reverse lock out?

    I'm a new 4 speeder and my car does not have a reverse lockout setup. What exactly does it do? It there a big problem with 4 speeds going into reverse spontaneously? Under what conditions does this become something I should consider? Thanks.
     
  20. Davis

    Davis Moderator

    Z-bar slides in with no problem and has decent movement. no conflicts with the header tubes.

    What does have a conflict with the header tubes is my wrench and the engine ball stud.

    Need more offset on the wrench.
     

    Attached Files:

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