Oil pressure dropping during camshaft break-in.

The drill I'm using has 2 speed settings. 1 and 2. On 1 it's using gear reduction and is rated at 400 rpm. On 2 the high setting its rated 1500 rpm. I can't run the drill too long on high as it over heats the drill but it's significantly faster than the low setting of 1. On low the drill gets a little warm but not hot. I ran it ten minutes the first time I primed the engine with the intake and valve covers off so I could verify oil was getting everywhere, and it was.
I have more oil on order and plan on putting that in the engine along with a new filter. Probably this coming weekend if I have time. I want to run the engine more and try to get my distributor timing closer to where it needs to be before I put the engine in the car. I'm just trying to plan ahead some. It's much easier to work on the engine on a test stand than in the car. I'm not as young and in shape like I was in my 20's so I need all the advantage I can get...lol.

 

Based on your earlier post, I am thinking you had a faulty sender.
If you are seeing 70 with a drill, fire it up and if you see 75-80 when cold, you are about right and likely were fine during break in. (TA timing cover/oil pump)

 

I just checked their website. The 5w-30 break-in oil is rated for flat tappet and aggressive roller cams. I used it because of my tight clearances on main and rod bearings. (.0015-.002)Here's the link.

https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497...K3lY-rrHIrDUcRbu8HJyQU4HsBQTHp6kaAgXUEALw_wcB

 

I guess with tight clearances Ok...but not as much cam protection on break in.....

 

Well this morning I finally was able to cut open the oil filter after camshaft break-in and it looks pretty good to me. I had a time cutting it open though but think that K&N must use a heavier gauge metal. Here's some pics.

 

That's good...previously didn't say that in description....only in 10w-40.

 

Looks good.
And it shows why filter and oil should be changed after break in.

Having seen so many people over the years saying it's fine to break in and drive for 500 miles.

 

I have too much time and money in this engine for a screw up or any small thing to cause problems. That's why I bought an engine test stand to correct problems that may arise before installing in my Skylark. Much easier to fix before hand.
Most of the other engines I've put together over the years were stock builds or remanufactured and just put regular oil in them and let er rip. But now I'm older, wiser and more experienced I kinda am a little OCD about things. Dropping the oil out after cam break in is easy. Changing a cam or other internal part is not and expensive.
I greatly appreciate the suggestions and advice everyone has given. I believe maybe tomorrow I may put fresh BR30 in with a new filter and run it some more. Just to check for more leaks, monitor oil pressure and engine temps. I need to get the distributor timing set closer to where it needs to be too.

Thanks again everyone,
Jim

 

Did you get everything sorted out?

 

Yep. So far so good. My next move is to change the filter and put fresh oil in and running the engine again. I'm wanting to monitor oil pressure and engine temps as well as setting the distributor timing closer to where it needs to be. Was planning on maybe doing it Sunday afternoon but may postpone until next weekend.

 

Remember the pressure you saw when priming with the drill will be different than when it’s running, it’s from the crank and lifters moving the oil out of the clearances, and the pump replenishing, so it’s going to be somewhat lower, BUT the engine can spin that pump faster than your drill
Sounds like you’ll be ok

 

Ran the engine for about 20 minutes today. Mostly 900-1100 rpm. My engine temps were great and stayed between 175-190 degrees. Oil pressure at idle after 20 minutes of varying the rpm during run time was about 19-20 psi. I think everything is OK. No leaks thank goodness either. I really don't plan to run it anymore as I need to get it in the car and run it under load to get the rings seated properly. I just have to pull the 350 out and change the mounts over for the 455. Not really looking forward to the mount changeover but I have a lift so it'll make things easier. I also plan on running a FiTech Fuel injection setup I already have. If I don't like the F.I. I'll just switch back to the Quadrajet after I send it to a trusted builder. Just want to try the F.I. first. I also am changing the rear-end to an 8.5 10 bolt with 3:42 posi that I purchased from Everyday Performance. So I'll also have to have a new driveshaft made as the current one is too long. The TH400 that is in the car was built about 23 years ago but only has about 500 miles on it and has many internal upgrades with a 2500 rpm converter. I'm going to try to make do with it for now and if I have problems will pull it back out and take care of it. Hopefully will be on the road again after sitting for 20 years this summer. I've had this car since 1994 and I have a sentimental attachment to it and really miss driving it. Just life kinda got in the way but was able to keep it in my possession thank goodness. Wish me luck!

Jim

 

Good News Jim.

 

One thing that I've done several times now on Skylarks and Regals when installing the frame mounts is to tack weld a length of welding rod, about 12"-18" long, to the center of the threaded end of the bolt. Then, I feed it up thru the frame and mount and just turn the welding rod to thread the bolt into the mount. When done, just break off the welding rod. Last I use the proper socket, universal and extensions to reach the bolt heads and torque them. Makes that job a lot easier.
Ken

 

Sounds like a good idea. I haven't been looking forward to fishing bolts in and out of the frame and I really don't want to pull the lower control arms off for more access.

 

When asked how to get those bolts in, my first response is always:

"Take a look at your lower control arm bushings .. if they are cracked at all, then this is the perfect opportunity to replace them.. with the lower control arm off, those bolts are much easier to get to."

JW

 

You know Jim those are original to the car and I think you're right. The car only has 68,000 miles on it but they're so old it would be a good idea to replace them and have easier access to the frame mounts too. If I'm taking all that apart I may as well look at the ball joints too. And now that I think about it the front springs probably should be changed to the correct ones for the big block.

 

You'll be powder coating the frame in no time!

Devon

 

Kind of how I ended up doing a frame off on my car. It snowball's.

 

If your doing a full frame off, might as well change the oil while yer at it...