Hello all. As some of you may recall, I recently had my 455 finally installed after it was rebuilt by Scotty's Racing Engine. From day one, I began seeing some oil leaks coming from the oil pan,( Poston two piece oil pan). Upon inspecting the install, I noticed that the two front bolts had not been installed. I discussed this with Scotty, and he informed me that they couldn't get the bolts into the hole and decided to RTV the hole and area. He informed me to clean the area up with carb cleaner and add more RTV on the outside of the pan to attempt to seal it further. Well this was done, but during the process I decided to remove the RTV from one of the holes and attempt to install a bolt. Upon installing the bolt, I realized that it would not catch the threads on the water pump cover. I measured the depth of the bolt and that is what told me something was blocking it from screwing into the water pump. I cleaned the area up some more and looked into the hole and noticed that it appears as if the water pump hole does not line up with the poston pan hole reason why I couldn't get the bolt into place. Probably same issue Scotty experienced. I decided to go ahead and continue the clean up the area and add the RTV as was suggested. I let the car sit for 24 hours and took it for a spin today. Within several minutes I could smell the oil burning and returned home. Upon inspection oil was just dripping from the front of the oil pan. See pics attached. I haven't gotten back to Scotty as he was already gone for the day, but has anyone experienced where the oil pan hole and water pump do not line up? Could it be that the gasket is in the way, not allowing it to line up? To me, I do not think RTV will do much in this area especially to replace two bolts. Reason why I would want such bolts in place. Any guidance or suggestions appreciated. Hector
I should have when I had engine rebuilt. Just went with Scottys advice to keep this pan. Issue now is I would have to take our engine to just put in new pan since there is no clearance. .
Just throwing this out there, don't know if it is feasible or not. The pan is aluminum. Maybe you can clean the area really well, then have some one weld the holes closed and re drill them so the holes line up with the timing cover holes. It might help to drop the pan as much as possible with the engine installed. Like I said, I'm not sure if this is even feasible. Maybe a TIG welder. Another option would be to remove the timing cover. The timing cover gasket set comes with that section of the oil pan gasket. Then fix the Poston pan as above so the holes line up with the timing cover. https://www.rockauto.com/info/6/SFL_TCS45002_P04_TOP__ra_p.jpg Trying to think outside the box.
Being that this is the two piece pan style, I can remove the lower part then remove the upper part without having to remove the engine. I need remove the RTV from the hole and see if it’s indeed the oil pan gasket blocking. It’s a cork gasket so I should be able to somehow trim it. Again if this is the issue. Just frustrating that one spends this kind of money to have an engine rebuilt and having to deal with this kind of oil leak.
If it were mine, I would drill the pan out to a larger size hole. Mark the depth of the drill with masking tape as to not to go too deep and into the front cover. Start out with one size over what's there and keep going up in size until you can get the bolts started. That's really a simple fix. You can easily go up to 3/8" diameter drill and still have plenty of contact for the bolts. Use AN MIL Spec washers if you have any, (smaller diameter). That area is a trouble spot for numerous reasons when it comes to getting the bolts in. I always test fit every pan I build on my jig to make sure these are functional after all welding, etc. Another thing you could try first, is to loosen up all of the pan bolts and see if there is enough play in the pan to slightly shift it in order to get the two front started. If that works, tighten all bolts a little at a time before snugging them all up. Steve
Yeah, if I was Scotty, I would have called you and said I can't use this piece of garbage. Either that or fixed it and charged you.
In looking into the hole it’s as if the pan surpasses the time cover holes. Meaning I see the front part of the timing cover hole vs the back part. I could try to loosen and try but He did RTV the whole pan along with the gasket. Wouldn’t this cause more leaks at other parts being that the RTV was not cleaned or removed from the pan?
This guy is a PROFESSIONAL??? Given a choice, I'd oblong the holes with a rotary file on a die grinder...but drilling could work, and would certainly be easier. How the heck can a PRO not figure out that the bolt holes don't align, and NOT BOTHER to fix it? Just glorp a bunch of RTV over the disaster and push it out the door. He spent extra time with the RTV that could have been put toward making the thing fit properly. Yes, he should get some additional labor dollars for taking care of what is--apparently--a poor machining job on the aftermarket pan. But RTV??? Really? And that's supposed to work?
Don't forget the safety glasses. A die grinder or whatever you call em there, Dremel I think, would be easier to control than an electric drill. Good Luck .
A "Dremel" is a hobby tool that does a poor job on wood, plastic, brass and aluminum; and takes FOR-EVER to do anything on steel. I have one, the last time I used it was with a crappy Dremel wire brush, for cleaning the corroded terminals of a fuse box. By the time I was done, the Dremel wire brush was looking naked since most of the bristles were gone. A "real" die grinder and rotary file (I'd use a "Tree" shape; and of course with cutting flutes intended for aluminum/soft metal rather than steel) would oblong those two holes in ten or fifteen seconds each, given that the pan is aluminum. The only reason it wouldn't remove the material in five seconds each side, is that you'd need to be cautious to not remove TOO MUCH material, and to create the oblong in the direction needed instead of the direction the tool wants to naturally cut. The pan will need to be removed, and the inside cleaned-out because the aluminum chips will fly everywhere. ~Twenty years ago, I bought the Mac Tools version of this: https://www.amazon.com/SP-Air-Corpo...ords=SP+Air+die+grinder&qid=1585792537&sr=8-4 The Mac version was advertised as 1/2 horsepower--whatever the rating, it made the "typical" CP and IR die grinders that the company supplied look like no-power junk. Safety glasses AND hearing protection required! The advantage of the dril is that there'd be no "sculpting" the hole in the desired direction, it would be easier to work with if the pan was still "in place", and clean-up would be easy or un-needed. The disadvantage is that the hole becomes unreasonably larger in all directions.
Good morning all. Woke up today ready to tackle this damn oil pan and then I thought what if I losen the timing cover screws and attempt to line up the pan bolts into timing cover holes. If they do line up, screw them in and then tighten all back up. Thoughts?
And while your fixing that take a look at that inner tie rod end that is rubbing that hose . Or is that the Positive Battery cable ???
Don't try to move the timing cover. Its doweled into position so you won't be able to move it anyway........ drill the holes.....
Just got off the phone with Scotty. He informed me to just hang tight and he will get me one of his local contacts in Miami to resolve the issue for me since he also has to have the deflector plate at the intake installed as the PCV valve is pulling up oil. I explained to him of the situation regarding the pan and timing cover not lining up and plan was to oblong the hole. He said for the time being try to do a nut and bolt combo, of smaller diameter, as a temporary fix until I get the car to the shop.
I would not drive the car until you get that splash shield installed. The engine is burning oil and your heads and valves will look like this. Don't ask me how I know this.
