Gas diluted oil? This just crossed my mind: You also complain about bad Mpg in another tread, is the oil level in the engine rising? (Instead of standing still or slowly dropping) If this is case, engine oil is thinned out- made thinner (me and expressing my self..) by unburned fuel going pass the pistons down in to the oil pan. This condition can appear with short driving periods and overly rich carb setting. If so, change the oil filter and oil, but you must also do something about the Mpg.. Lars
Did you engine you took out have a electric or mechnical fuel pump? My V6 Century has a carburetor and a electric fuel pump and the wiring to the "oil choke light" is all related because the the fuel pump power source is routed threw the oil pressure gauge. Any time making major engine changes it a good idea to refer to the Buick service manuial to check what changes needed in the wiring in the car. I don't know if this has been helpful but I hope it has, AL. :Smarty:
Good question Al but mine has the manual fuel pump. I actually swapped the fuel pump off the V6 to the V8. The oil/choke light only came on when I swapped carbs and hooked up the choke. There's got to be a bug or short in there somewhere. Lars, thanks for keeping up to date on all my posts. My oil is steadily decreasing. I'm going to find some time to fine tune this beast probably tomorrow since I have the day off work. I degreed the cam as you and others suggested but haven't done much fine tuning yet (idle mixture, idle speed, timing). I have the idle set pretty high right now incase I wasn't getting enough oil pressure. I guess idling real high could cause poor gas mileage as well. I got a new copper oil pressure line so maybe I'll get that installed tomorrow too. Thanks, MARK
Mark, what was the oil pressure on the engine when it was warmed up at 800 RPMs in park using a mechanical guage? This information is important to make a judgment on your problem. I will look for your response and will go from there, AL.
That's the problem. The gauge just drops to zero after about 10 minutes. There is also oil on the copper tubing where it comes out of the block. There has got to be a leak somewhere. I believe there is no way an engine will run (very long) with zero oil pressure. That's why I was asking the earlier question "Do I need tape or silicone on the threads on the copper tubing". MARK
oil pressure check Two things, One make sure the oil is not mixed with fuel and remove the copper line and hook the gauge line directly in to the engine block. AL
Re: Re: An update Ok, it leaks. I'm old fashion, Ill go for the tape. I still dont think thats the presure droping problem, unless we are talking 1/4 gallon leak/1min? Have you locked at the oil pressure release valve/plunge i mentioned earlier? It is located in the bottom of the oil pump, on the front/timing cower, opposite side of the timing marks, and underneath the harmonic balanser.(close to the oil filter) A big "nut thing"?, behind/inside it there is a spring and a plunge. The plunge must move freely, and the spring must appear to be ok. (not broken, twisted or some thing like that. Im sure someone on this board can give you the free length I is supposed to hawe. Al and I are in to the oil thing, CHANGE IT! and the filter! If theres half a connecting rod or camshaft bearing coming out off the oilpan together with the oil, dont bother fill any new in, you must rebuild. If not, fill it up with new oil and If this did not cure it, at least you will know one thing thats good. I dont know how hot it is where youre at, so I will not give you any advise on the thickness. I use a 10w/40 semi synthetic oil my self. Lars
I'm using Mobile 1 drive clean 10w-30 oil. The weather here has been fluctuating so today it is 60 degrees outside. It's suppose to be in the 30's tomorrow morning. I wonder if I'll be in trouble by switching to 20w-50 oil. I'll check the plunger when I change the oil. I live in a condo with no garage and we're not allowed to work on our cars in the parking lot (although I do late at night). So that means I have to drive to my dad/mom's house to do the work. The oil on the dipstick looks to be okay though. Not real thin. MARK
I'm not sure how many RPM I'm turning but it also goes to zero driving 72mph on the freeway. o No: MARK
Okay so no oil pressure at lower RPMs or higher RPMs or in idle but still I drive the car every day to work? I think I'm just going to remove all the warning light light bulbs and drive this thing until it blows. Before we put this engine in the car, we removed the oil pan and used a wire brush to clean the pan, pickup tube and screen so I think I can rule that out. Where's the windage tray located? I'm going to try to get the oil changed this weekend so I can look for debris and check the pressure release valve. If all else fails, or before it does, I always have my V6 still laying around. I guess I could swap the timing chain covers. MARK
Hey txgwildcat, just read through your Wildcat for sale post. :Brow: Hmmm. Maybe I should just drop the 350 idea and go for the 455. MARK
Rock on dude... I stayed up real late last night cleaning up a q-jet carb from a 1980 Pontiac. This is the carb I stole the electic choke off of to put on my current 73 Olds carb. I dumped about half a can of WD40 all over it and used choke cleaner and gasoline as well. I put the choke back on it and swapped it for the older q-jet I had on the car. The end result is, during the first startup while the carb was digesting all that WD40 and stuff, it sputtered and spit and smoked and the oil/choke light kept flashing on and off. After it got over that, it ran beautifully AND NO MORE WARNING LIGHT! I'm not saying my problems are cured but I feel like I squashed at least one bug. Tomorrow I will change the oil and and check the plunger. MARK
For anyone still reading this thread: The oil/choke light came on again on my way home from work and stayed on very dim. To rule out most everything, I bought and replaced my timing gears and chain, I swapped the timing cover from the V6 along with the oil pump gears over to the 350. I pulled the oil pump plunger spring out of the V6 and put it in the 350 (it was a bit softer). I set my timing for 10* initial but it doesn't advance past 16* and it still knocks on take off. And...the oil/choke light still comes on and flashes 2 or 3 times while driving. Stupid car!
I took the gauge off so I don't know what kind of pressure I'm getting. The engine sounds real good at idle and when driving though. Also, when I primed the oil pump, it shot oil out everywhere so I know it's working just not how much pressure. MARK
Mark, please do exactly what I'm going to instruct you; take a mechanical oil pressure gauge and thead it directly to where the sending unit would and post your P.S.I. cold and warmed up. DO NOT PUT ANY THING BETWEEN THE GAUGE AND THE ENGINE BLOCK !!! I'll look for your post, AL.uzzled:
I appreciate your reply Al. I'm not sure when I'll get the chance to get back under the hood though. It might be a little while. Thanks for the follow-up. MARK
