Off on a 'Lark...

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by yachtsmanbill, Dec 23, 2018.

  1. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Cool! I think 9.5 to 10:1 would nicely accomplish what Im looking for; something that runs like they used to / are supposed to! I really dont wanna go too far as I absolutely want to maintain drive-ability for not much more than say, 20 mile jaunts.

    "Sumpthin' Special" should be a strong running blast from the past with patina (within reason) and all. I know its not wrong to expect 350 hp from a good stock motor, hence the heads, and cam.
    So Hugger, are we talking aluminum rockers being the weak link here? I have the steel ones off the '75 smog motor. I was surprised to see them on this '70 unit. Its by NO MEANS a fresh motor either. See the pics above! The v-6 rockers look surprisingly like whats on that '70 motor today.

    Added: Just had a brain fart! The rockers on the 70 are aluminum but do resemble the stamped ones in style...

    I fully expect it to be another "mouse motor" LOL. As always, appreciate the input!

    Now for Frank; Hmmm where ya been? happy New Year. I know you know SumpSing! You old Galighter(sp)! Hope alls' well!

    These are two current messes Ive encountered. The current 455 after a 20 year storage with #'s 4 & 8 having bad rods and crank pins, and the V6 stored since 1980... FROZEN TIGHTER than an Alpine Lake in Janyerary. Just copied a pic from google. Thats whats on the 70 block... ws

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    Last edited: Jan 6, 2019
  2. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    As we move along, the '75 455 is all apart and really tired. The cranks a gonner, 2 rods are bad, and it needs a .030" bore job. So Ive ben shopping here and found a pretty good deal on a set of rods withARP bolts and some .060" pistons. Those are gonna come off the rods and another set of pistons at .030" are also coming from here.

    I have a deal brewing with a local guy that has a barn full of 455s. Tomorrow is scrap day for the V6 and the 3 speed crash box, plus old manifolds etc etc. Friday, Im gonna pick up the 1970 heads and intake for 100.00. The block is coming home as well to get torn down. Hopefully the crank is good along with a bunch of misc. parts, and then return the remainder with all the stuff i need for 100.00. The last engine I had bored was a 327 in 1972. That was .030" over and the shop charged 12.00 a hole IIRC. How times have changed! It was a good running 331 with 2.02 fuelly heads and a Crane Fireball cam. Performance was sooo simple back then.

    So the V6 bellhousing is good to go. I pulled the 2" manifold clamps of the V6 and they fit my 455 manifolds. The super T-10 I bought is 1" longer than the 3 speed, so Ill have to do a tutorial on shortening that.

    So buy stock in GO-JO haha. That 3 speed came in my hair today, just missing the eyeball shot. Ill get even... its heading for china Friday morning... ws

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    Nailhead Ronnie likes this.
  3. mrolds69

    mrolds69 Still restoring!!!

    Looks like big hole, brake booster valve deal, Bill. Those can be hard to find.
     
  4. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Glad I kept it! It was the fitting onto a hose onto a steel tube into an inverted flare fitting on the manifold. ws
     
  5. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Well now... Guess the wore out 1974 455 is going in for the block prep, sonic test, bore job at +.040" and the usual plus a reman crank. All Ive seen local was junk. $375.00 with bearings and a core for piece of mind is OK I guess. Picked up another 1970 engine that mustve been an anchor in the lake. Gonna try to use the heads and intake (69 CC chambers?). "I think it had a rod knock..." -Famous last words...
    Yesterday, picked up a set of gently used T/A forged +.040" pistons, a Schneider street cam and Rhoads lifters for the budget build. Still working off the B-turd money LOL.

    Now for the exspurts, as usual! What gives on a set of used front springs? I pulled the V6 which was about 500lbs and putting in the 455 with no air, but PS and PDBs, and dont want a low rider. Are they all inter changeable from 64 to 72 ...diameter wise that is?
    Still searching for a decent USED 455 flywheel for the budget build.

    Updates as we move along! ws

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  6. 1972Mach1

    1972Mach1 Just some guy.....

    I'm still searching for a flywheel, Barnacle Bill...........Now I'm no expert on the springs, but when I went to Summit and did a search for your car, I found these Moogs for $70 and change. Looks like they also fit Tri Five Chevys and Firechickens, weirdly enough..... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-656/applications/.

    Going from small block to big block in my Mach 1 made only 1/2" of ride height, but those are with custom springs. Doing the same thing in my Dad's '70 El Camino dropped an inch or better, and I ended up putting big block springs in it for him last year while I was up there. If a guy is taking stuff off or adding an aluminum intake and headers, he might drop enough weight over the cast iron to be ok going from little engine to big.
     
  7. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    I know that the Special is the base of base models and probably sprung accordingly with the V6. After 38 years + of sitting they are pretty sagged out, the rears especially. The F78s up front dont help either. With the clip off and 455 out, nows the time for springs and brake lines etc.

    Thinking about bags in the back. If the sizes are the same diameter wise, maybe some stock base GS 455 springs would do it. Hmm. Gotta look at some numbers or guys experience (that always matters in my book!). Thanks Luke... still need that flywheel too LOL.... ws
     
  8. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Finally got the "shop cleaned" block off to the motor parts shop today along with the heads, forged (and balanced!) pistons and rods and 2 cranks for cores. Every single hole got cleaned, tapped and blown clear and all gasket surfaces prepped to MY satisfaction. Main oil passage appears to be <5/8" (.609"). Good??
    Shops gonna bake the block clean, then shot blast it and the hot tank it... same for the heads."Cleanliness is next to Godliness". Only problem is they are two weeks out from starting. Sure dont want any surprises! ws

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    UticaGeoff and 1972Mach1 like this.
  9. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Two weeks out means two months in machine shop time
     
    GranSportSedan and 1972Mach1 like this.
  10. 1972Mach1

    1972Mach1 Just some guy.....

    Ain't that the truth.....Get ready to relax and get a bunch of other stuff done on the car.
     
  11. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Ready to knock'em in the head! ws
     
  12. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    My shop just enlarged by about 50% with that 455 apart now moved to the machine shop. They can keep it for a month! On to starting a clean up on the front frame stuff, brake lines, master cylinder (double) and a stupid speedo cable! ws
     
  13. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    I like the Moog 6197 for the rear of my 66's. It's the hd spec, sits about stock height, maybe a tad more.
    You need to use 64-66 springs (one pigtail end, one tangential end) since the 67-72 has different frame pockets and uses springs with pigtails at both ends.
    For minor adjustments to 64-66, you can trim a partial coil to lower height or add some shims under the spring to raise height.
     
  14. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Thats interesting Walt. I did the 72's and the had the tangential ends to keep the spring from spinning in the perches. The 64 I believe has the bolted bottoms (still anti spin tho?), is that the pigtail end? Im conversing with a board member here about these 67 rears. The tops look Tang. and the bottoms look coiled' upside down maybe? ws

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  15. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    Your pic shows the pigtail ends. 64-72 all have a pigtail that sits on the rear axle.
    The 64-66 have one pigtail end that sits on the flat spring perch on the rear axle. A bolt/retainer plate secures them to r axle. 67-72 still use that pigtail end but the perch on the r axle has a raised cone that fits inside that pigtail, no bolt/plate required.
    Upper end is different between 64-66 and 67-72.... pigtail on 67-72, tangential on 64-66.
    I can get a pic of the 6197 rear spring later if you like.
     
  16. Chi-Town67

    Chi-Town67 Gold Level Contributor

    Here's a good pic of the different styles.......... Spring styles.png
     
  17. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Now Im good and confused LOL... I couldnt get under the 64 today for a "sure shot", so Im only guessing on that. Tomorrow its gonna happen. Ill be up on all four on jackstands! These are pics of the 72 (nice and clean) and the 64 (rusty)... ws

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  18. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Sooo... due to the space time continuum, I got some other front end stuff done today. Pulled the motor mounts after stuffing rags in the frame (!) and STILL came up 4 flat washers short plus one wasp nest. After an AH-HA moment of looking in the book, it shows TWO flat washers on the drivers side only.

    Got the Special up on two front stands and pulled the tires. Mustve been a vibration problem from tire balance Id say! Brakes are stuck enough to keep the drums on and barely roll. Then some basic cleaning, chipping at crud, and some vacuuming... ws

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    BYoung likes this.
  19. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Finally broke something taking the time capsule apart today. In prepping to break the upper ball joints free to lower the control arms to change front springs, I busted the two long bolts on the front sway bar. Everything else is perfect, but the rusted nuts, even with heat and PB gave way to the long ratchet. No biggy.:cool:

    Banged on the drums for a while with no success. Even some heat and NADA. Stopped and read the manual (SARTFM) and found out the hubs and drums are pressed together and come off as an assembly via the wheel bearings. Neat, huh? Passenger side was still pretty tight with a shoe rusted to the drum. Sprayed some PB in the crack and it gave way with a 4 pounder.

    Got a call from a local pal to come and get the 1964 8.2" rear end, springs and boxed arms. I can have that stuff all built and ready to go in instead of dragging my heels with another project midstream.
    THANKS PAL.. ANYTIME you need something, gimme a call:):) !

    Anyone have any recommendations as to what dual master cylinder to use with 1964 power drums that was a single master system? Gonna run all new lines, and probably wheel cylinders to boot. Do it once and do it right!

    Heres a few pics of what 33,000 miles looks like. Im still surprised when stuff comes apart, like the dust caps on the bearings... ws

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  20. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    View attachment 417162 More time capsule dis-assembly today. I still need a longer speedo cable for the T-10 with the passenger side drive. How long?? Exspurts?? The '64 is a wayy simpler job to work on than the '72, thats for sure! Springs are out and some cleaning has begun. Any input on a dual master cylinder? Just power drums, nothing "special". ws

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