you're going to have to get a rear sump pan and a rear sump pickup tube. I had the flywheel matched to the oem flex plate for balance. also while you have the engine in the machine shop make sure they check to see if the crank is machined for a pilot bushing. most later Buick 455's weren't. I ran across this issue and had to use a Dick Miller roller bearing adapter as seen in the picture.
Hey Bill check out this tranny, https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/pts/d/cokato-borg-warner-4-speed-transmission/6780342010.html Keith
Here's a couple more, man these are easy to find lol https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/pts/d/minneapolis-tspeed/6767959636.html https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/pts/d/northfield-10-4-speed-tranny-1962/6741584011.html Keith
Thanks Walt! Everyone Ive spoken with with takes sides with either Muncies or B/W's. Im ambivalent, and see the positives in both. Ive had quite a few of each and they had their strong and weak points. I'd just like to get this together, and then fine tune it as we move along. Im going to be in touch with the grinder tomorrow to get a feel for whats going on, waiting for the word on some engine accessory brackets and a flywheel. Its gonna be a busy week for sure. Once we start moving on this, the wrenches and the frenches will be flying! After an 0800Dr. appointment, its gonna be some serious shop time, cleaning up and taking some measurements... ws
Thanks Keith! Ive actually seen all of those while searching! I think Ive made a deal with the one I posted above with the orange scatter-shield. The guy is keeping the Lakewood, dropping 200.00 off the price and delivering it to Milwaukee from Chicago. He has a pal that he visits for lunch up here. The guy even sent me a video of the unit rolling over. He's had this for 30 years as a spare; he's into LS chevelles and has just started his last frame off with a 1970 LS 6... He's 63 y.o. and we talked about mutual stomping grounds when we were kids. It was like old home week. ws
WOW! A ton more to read... So this guy was a BW, with a 903 Aluminum case built June 1st, 1981 (case design 1979) and a 2:43 ist gear which Im good with. Had a 2:23 Muncie that was hard on clutch discs with a 308 differential. Thanks for the HAMB link! Forgot about them since the FordBarn days LOL... Forgot to ad, this BW comes with a T-400 yoke and a HD trans mount OK... so I know theres no pilot bearing in the hole, so either I have the shop drill and install an OEM one, or spin the correct one on my lathe. Theres a base bore hole which is still considered center on the shaft. Some guys go off this with good results. Exspurts? "Back in the day" we always shied away from a roller bearing. Theres no give whatsoever in installing the guide shaft into the bearing. On your back, that mattered. This one will be installed "standing upright" LOL... Id like to have a flywheel ready to balance on the crank as a unit. Im not too worried about piston weight, just dont want a shaker! So now Ill need to find a rear sump pan too. Hmmm ws
Doin' the Texas Two step... Two steps forward and one step back, but its still progress right? Picked up the ST-10 yesterday and it rolls and shifts smooth, at least on the tailgate of my truck. It has a a Hurst Comp+ shifter with a 10" long straight Muncie (branded) stick with a white ball. I need a bench seat style stick. Trades?? Otherwise its a Longgg reach down to the floor LOL... Parts Wanted ad going up here today; I still need 1967 GS 400 frame pads for the 455. Not to be nasty, but a guy on V8 with a '67 being stripped kinda stiffed me on the parts for 2 weeks now. It isnt right, but he's got them and I need them. First it was my offer on stuff, NOPE too low , then waited to see what buyer of engine wanted, NOPE buyer decided he wants the acc'y stuff with it, then its "I dont want to lay in the mud and then drive 15 miles to ship" on frame pads. Gimme a break. Ive done WAYY more for guys for free. Use caution: http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/67-gs400-engine.341154/ Sooo, Im gonna buy a NEW 455 flywheel. Its 289.00 plus 30 LBS to ship. Any comments on BALANCING? My machine shop says back to back and 180 apart from the flex plate to get the counterweight right. Otherwise to balance the crank they want rods off the pistons and the damper for a true dynamic balance. Talked to George in Mishicot (Thanks Steve!!) He has a barn full of RTO 455s and 430s for an earlier, non EGR head and intake set and maybe a standard crankshaft with 2 rods as well. The rod pounder outa my 455 is about .018 egg shaped. NFG! He's willing to let me pull a motor apart and take what I need. $$$ is reasonable too. A whole different mentality from above^^^ ! ARGHHHH ! Ill have 2 1974 SMOG heads and 2 SMOG 4V intakes for sale just above scrap $$$. Local pickups on this stuff only. Got a few guys interested in the 64 V6 Fireball parts, so that'll offset some of the expense on the motor. Anyone need a V^ long block or a 3 speed manual, sing out. Otherwise, its headed for Pyongyang yang, or Itchy Crotchee, India. Gotta get started pulling the V6 apart today... No more slackin'! ws
You're really much better off buying a set of the TA frame pads. If you get the original 67 frame pads you will have to Source a set of original 67 motor mounts which are nearly impossible to find.
AH HA!! Thats all I needed to hear! So are the mounts gonna be for, say, a 1970 GS455? Thanks for the input! Bill
yes sir, if you get the TA frame pads you can use the cheap readily available 455 motor mounts. 67 mounts are one year only and almost non existent.
Got the fenders, hood, and core support off today and also the valve covers, air cleaner, front timing chest with oil pump, and a distributor with OEM Packard wires. Hmmm. The stuff is promised out. The motor is 90% unbolted and should come out tomorrow. And heres the pics of the new baby! Anyone want to trade the short Muncie stick for a Hurst bench seat model? ws
Bill check out these heads: https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/pts/d/minneapolis-buick-455-heads/6784701805.html Keith
Nice! All I need is to win the lottery LOL... Tomorrow I'm going to go look at a few late 60's early 70s blocks and heads. Still need a decent crank. The shop is around $400.00 with bearings and another 124.00 to re-size the rods; THEN theres the heads. ws
So me and my pal Jeff went up to this guys farm to look at about 20, 400, 430 and 455 engines. I pulled out the #'s cheat sheet and found a good 1970 complete engine; even has the aluminum alternator bracket and PS brackets. So the deal is, he's gonna get it outa the barn and into his shop. Next week, we'll load it into my truck and Ill take it home and strip what I need, and return the carcass to him, for $200.00. If the crank is good, Im home free; sorta LOL... The valve covers are off and it has aluminum rocker arms. Any input on those?? I thought they've always been stamped steel (?). So these are 69CC heads and should add a little zip. Ill hafta get them out to the magic shop. Are the 1970 pistons flat top with valve reliefs or are they dished? Rods better? ws
I'd have picked a later engine. Maybe a 71-73 for the bigger oil passages. There's no advantage to a 70 engine when you're rebuilding it anyway
I agree... gonna use my 1975 block, but the crank and 2 rods were bad. I wanted the pre-smog, non EGR heads and manifold, but if the crank, rods and cam& stuff is good, why not? Just want to get this guy on the road, and then tweek it next winter. Probably paint, rear end job and maybe a new cam then. Right now we are close on the budget LOL... Gettin all this big stuff retrofitted aint no cake walk. ws
70 Pistons will net around around 9.6 to 9.8, they are dished with no valve reliefs. the 70-71 rockers are known to wear the steel shaft, and dont care for higher spring psi and lift. The rods are all the same animal.
I'm like Schultz, Bill "I know nothing" of this stuff. But I'll keep an eye on your thread, I know some stuff and have good resources.
Cool! I think 9.5 to 10:1 would nicely accomplish what Im looking for; something that runs like they used to / are supposed to! I really dont wanna go too far as I absolutely want to maintain drive-ability for not much more than say, 20 mile jaunts. "Sumpthin' Special" should be a strong running blast from the past with patina (within reason) and all. I know its not wrong to expect 350 hp from a good stock motor, hence the heads, and cam. So Hugger, are we talking aluminum rockers being the weak link here? I have the steel ones off the '75 smog motor. I was surprised to see them on this '70 unit. Its by NO MEANS a fresh motor either. See the pics above! The v-6 rockers look surprisingly like whats on that '70 motor today. Added: Just had a brain fart! The rockers on the 70 are aluminum but do resemble the stamped ones in style... I fully expect it to be another "mouse motor" LOL. As always, appreciate the input! Now for Frank; Hmmm where ya been? happy New Year. I know you know SumpSing! You old Galighter(sp)! Hope alls' well! These are two current messes Ive encountered. The current 455 after a 20 year storage with #'s 4 & 8 having bad rods and crank pins, and the V6 stored since 1980... FROZEN TIGHTER than an Alpine Lake in Janyerary. Just copied a pic from google. Thats whats on the 70 block... ws
