Finally, I am rid of the #$%& polyurethane suspension bushings! Can't wait to try these new parts out!
So, now the rear end articulates on 6 spherical bearings (I wish it were all 8 points) and 2 Delrin bushings in the lower arms, rear end side.
nice how hard were those sperical bearings(are they actual bearings or bushings?)to install & where did you get them?
Actually, they were easy as pie to install. I put them in the freezer for a couple of days, and they practically fell into place. Get them at www.wolferacecraft.com. They are just over $100.00 for the pair. They are real bearings.
It really seems to me as though those would bind for the same reason as the polyurethane did... but I don't know much about suspension stuff, really. What made you go this way? Will this help your traction issues? What made you go away from polygraphite (I would assume these would certainly be more durable than the polygraphite, but since thats what I've got, I thought I'd ask)?
Hey, Eric. I went with them specifically so the suspension could articulate. There isn't much chance of bind when using real bearings. With the spherical bearings, there is no play or slop (which is good) but the suspension is free to move, which is VIP. Bearings are going to offer the least bind. I will write back after a couple of hard launches with results. YES, I have done all this because I had crap for traction. Well, that and the ride was super harsh. You could tell that something was seriously wrong. Put simply: the suspension just didn't move! Even with a hard launch, it didn't move, like it was locked in position. The suspension is supposed to dig - react - but it was not, so the tires just spun. Lastly, I do not expect the bearings to outlast poly. Actually, I expect the opposite, but feel that it's worth it. I'll let you know how the car digs, as I should have it out this weekend, trying out the new Q Jet.
It seems like that sperical bearing would need some kind of grease fitting to keep from wearing out soon.
I've got polygraphite and they don't bind, but my springs are pretty shot so we'll see what happens with Hotchkis stuff. Carl brings up a good point; how are they lubricated?
Big Difference OK, after the 1st test drive, I can say that there is a huge difference in how the car reacts. When I floor it, the car "lurches" up in the rear. The suspension is definately moving. Also, an interesting fun fact: With the old suspension, I could spin pretty hard and leave almost no marks on the ground. Now it's 2 BLACK patches! Cool, but oh - my (expensive) tires!
There ya go... its trying to plant the tires now. Before it sounds like there was NO weight transfer.
Yeah, the suspension simply wasn't moving. There still isn't a lot of weight transfer front to back, but at least the rear suspension can articulate! Interesting tidbit - Global West says that "you don't need a rear sway bar" with their lower arms. Funny thing is that the car really is cornering ok without one. I haven't tried a highway ramp at speed yet, however. The acid test is going 70+ on a ramp with a speed limit of 30!
Parking lot fun Well, tried some hard cornering in an empty section of the local mall parking lot. It's impressive, and just as Global West stated, you don't need a rear sway bar. I don't understand how, but I am beginning to reluctantly agree with them!
I believe they pulled .93G's on a 200ft skidpad without one! I guess its probably all in the setup... Hotchkis says use both, Global West says dont.
We never used sway bars on our circle track cars. We tuned them with springs. This is not a real viable option with most street cars. For example we used 1100# right front and 400# right rear. Would not want to run those rates on a street car. I like what Andrew has done. I just wish there was some way to seal and grease that bearing. For a straight up tires (all the same size) I think you can go without a sway bar. If you are running bigger tires in the back you will need a sway bar. Also makes a difference what motor you are running. Again Andrew may be close to optimized with his small block and 4 speed. This gives him better weight distribution than a BBB with an auto. The other thing not considered is the effect of engine torgue on the suspension. The right rear sway bar can really help in drag racing with a big torque motors. A setup like HRparts.... is much more effective than stockers. Another vewpoint is Herb Adams. He was a Pontiac suspension specialist and used to make HUGE rear sway bars. What would be real interesting is to lay out a skidpad and run some numbers on various combinations. Lots of work and will mess up tires. This summer I am going to scale my car and then do some measurements on bind in my suspension. Will let everyone know the results.
I agree. GW appears to be right on this one. With the 1.5" (!) rear bar, the suspension felt like it was locked solid. It actually moves. I heard that the delrin bushing that GW uses is fairly "tight" and holds the rear end in place quite well. I may use a rear sway bar someday, but it'ss be a small one, like a stock 7/8"
All of my tires are the same size, and the bars I am using are Herb Adams. They are the most serious bars on the market. 1.31" front with heim joint ends, and 1.5" rear. Both are chrome moly steel. They are heavy and stiff. It seems like a pretty cool combination, but I do agree about the bearing having no lube. I, however, do not use the car all that much - about 3oo miles a year. It'll be a while before they're worn out (I hope).
Hey Andrew, I dont know if I ever asked you, but how did you get those tires under the front, and do they rub? Also, what springs are you running?
