Got my motor rebuilt then we put it all back in an now the temperature went to 220 degrees an the oil pressure looks to be at 35 or 40 psi. The radiator is a replacement aluminum radiator I installed that is 3 or 4 row. The radiator was put in before I had the motor rebuilt, so there was rust in the motor that got into the radiator but I did pressure wash it good before using it and I replaced the thermostat and I tried running it without the thermostat,still getting to hot. It does not have a fan shroud or overflow bottle which I know I need none the less it still should not be getting this hot. What can I do to solve this problem besides buying another over priced part for this on going money pit. If this car does not run correctly soon that will be the end of it. At least I will get some enjoyment or pleasure out of it burning to the ground or crushed cause I sure have not had any other enjoyment from it. Thanks for any help.
220* running with no airflow across the radiator? That would not seem "hot" to me. A fan shroud would certainly help.
Take 68 steps away from it and do not look back for at least 32 hours. You have what is called "mechanical remorse". It occurs when you throw time and money into a mechanical object and it does not do what you think it should,or it makes a female in your life ask why she is not driving a new Cadillac for the dough that is apparently absent from the account. In this particular case.....When the engine is running,is the fan blade pushing or pulling air ? You should feel it blowing towards the air cleaner. Removing the thermostat is not going to help,it may even hinder the time for the coolant to cool in the radiator.Check both heater hoses to be hot to insure proper flow through the heater core. Sometimes an obstruction in the core or water pump end will slow the flow. 220 degrees will not do any damage,but you should be able to get this thing to run about 180 degrees. Assuming that everything is flowing properly ,try removing the cap and opening the drain on the radiator while running with a garden hose flushing water through it. See if that keeps a continuos flow through the drain and it will also show you if there is any crud coming out.
The very first thing that caught my eye was the 3 or 4 core aluminum radiator. Are you sure about that? Is it 3 core, or 4 core? I want you to make sure that is accurate, because if it is, whoever bought that radiator wasted their money. Let me know, and then I'll explain why. Second thing is fan shrouds are not optional. Without them, most of the air goes around the radiator, not through it. Simple as that.
sometimes it takes more then 1 flush of the radiator. i bet there is still rust in the radiator, heater core and the block.
We will say it is a 3 core radiator. Flushed the radiator very very good twice already before reinstall. There is no heater core, it has been bypassed. Definitely no rust in the motor now. It was completely rebuilt an I have pics through the process to show there is no rust at all anymore. I will be buying a fan shroud for sure now though. As for driving it now though it does not seem possible because it seemed like the temp. was wanting to go even higher than 220 while moving.
I would take that radiator out and get the flow checked at a radiator shop. Its either got a restriction or its one of them bad chinesium knock offs that wind up making the engine overheat
I have probably posted this a number of times before, and I even wrote an article for the N.E. GS/GN club about radiators. Brass/copper actually transfers heat better than aluminum. Why are aluminum radiators better then? Tube size. Brass/copper being a softer metal cannot support tube sizes bigger than 5/8". Aluminum tubes can be up to 1 1/2". More tube to fin contact area, more cooling. Aluminum radiators don't need more than 1 or 2 rows because of this. When you see 3 or more cores in an aluminum radiator, it has smaller tube sizes, in essence, a copy of a brass/copper radiator, and because aluminum doesn't transfer heat as well as brass/copper, the 3 core aluminum is actually inferior to an equivalent brass/copper radiator..
Absolutely. A non functional vacuum advance with stock mechanical advance rate will result in retarded cruise timing. That can heat an engine up.
Can you get away with bypassing heater core by capping lines,or does it need to flow on a nailhead? I know it is no problem on a chevy,but I was not sure about the 401/425.
I believe so. Not sure why it would be a problem on any engine. I'm sure Tommy will correct me if I am wrong.
That makes sense as long as all the air is out I guess it has to flow. I got stumped on one here because somebody put the fan off a conventional belt chevy to a serpentine pump and it was turning backwards. I couldn't even see it with the shroud on.
A lot of times when the heater core is dis-connected they take the heater hose & loop it around. If the hose DOESN'T have a restricting kink in it the coolant will mostly circulate between the outlet, at the water manifold, to the inlet of the water pump. I CAP ALL connections & NOT loop the hose.
I do have the hose looped and I will cap it! What did you use to cap both of them? I hope that fixes it, till I get a shroud on the fan. Thank you
When I first rebuilt my 401 it overheated and I traced the problem to a misaligned inlet gasket (the wrong way around) letting it suck a little air and run lean. And of course the leak was on the same side as the temp sender...... replaced the gasket the right way and things were much better.
Radiator flow test.... Cover the bottom outlet with your hand, fill rad with water, then remove hand..... water should gush out at a fast rate. When you power washed it, was it the inside or outside? Fan shrouds.... Were only on the air-conditioned cars or ones with the optional hd cooling. It should run okay without a shroud but adding one is a good idea. Are you using the stock 4 blade fan? You can get better ones from the junkyard. A mid 80's V6 clutch unit will fit. Unsure if the V6 fan will also fit. I used a fan from a Caddy, it was the correct size for the shroud I used. There was also a GM 7 blade fan used back then. Much better than the 4 blade. I used a shroud from a small-block '66, turned it upside down, and cut about an inch from the fan opening side. OR....A repo GS shroud is avail from Kirban Performance.... they make them for the other sellers like Year One. Electric fans are another option. Lots of them in junkyards...
1. Did you ever verify the temp gauge was working properly? Maybe the engine is running at 140 degrees, but the temp gauge shows 220? 2. Ignition timing and fuel curve are important. 3. Any chance the impeller of the water pump is damaged? 4. What is the pulley ratio between crank pulley and water-pump pulley? Is the belt tight? 5. You could pinch off flow through the looped heater core hose using a long-nose vice-grip. If the temperature changes (I doubt it) you could go ahead and cap off the outlet and inlet fittings on the engine. If not...don't bother.
When you power washed it, was it the inside or outside this is a good question your never to do this with water
I pinched the the hose off,I did spray the inside of radiator before I put it back in with water, does have new water pump nothing wrong with impeller,does have factory 4 blade fan clutch,and what is the inlet gasket that could be leaking by temp sender? I have after market gauges for oil,temp, an battery. Thanks everyone for the info,the car is still overheating,dang.
