Read this and see if it helps you understand BSFC 's and the relation to A/F etc. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ctrp-1109-brake-specific-fuel-consumption/ You might have seen this stocker I dyno's on friday, I posted the wrong dyno sheet. The BSFC's were too high and I leaned it out for the final combo. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?296996-Dyno-results-on-10-0-1-464-Stg-1-iron-heads-Q-jet
This is what I was hoping for with my brown 75 Lesabre build. I am similar but I left in the stock pistons and don't have headers, just ported manifolds. I have not been on a dyno but there is no way I am close to your #'s congrats! Looks like the next upgrade is a set of pistons...... What color did you paint the engine it kind of looks like an early Cadillac blue!
Thanks! From my research, '76's color was "GM Corporate Blue". SO I went out and found it on Amazon. At first glance, I thought the shade was a little bit off...but I've NEVER seen a newly painted 76 motor. I've only seen faded blue paint on motors that have been exposed to the elements for 30+ years. So I have no way of comparing my shade of blue to what it actually looked like in 1976
Here are my other dyno sheets. The first two are with their shop carb. The third one is the first dyno pull with my qjet (this run was not included in the vid I posted)
The second carb is way to fat, I think the power increases are possibly linked to the rings sealing. I wonder why he disconnected the A/F for the last pull?
Here is a pic of my 57 Cadillac engine color and here is a picture of very late build (last 50) 75 Buick with the correct GM corporate blue from 76 up (and obviously late 75) I don't know if you are a purist or will show the car but it is a lot easier to repaint the engine when it's not in the car (Don't ask how I know this....)
I can see how my pigment is more identical to your caddy. I'm leaving it as is. It's not red...and it's not '75 green, so this shade of blue will suffice for me!
I like the darker blue, I became a color nut when I was trying to find the one year only turquoise blue for my 75's I had to settle for an AMX blue that's as close as I could get
Moving right along... As you can see, I didn't get around to cleaning and painting the engine bay. Missed opportunity. I'll see what I can do post install.
Back on the road, finally! Between the mechanic shop being swamped with work, and me having to travel for work...this day took a lil bit longer than I expected. But alas, my boat is back on the road. Fun, fun, fun. Thanks for all of the comments, constructive input, and advice.
It's running really well so far. Everything is a smooth as can be. I'm loving the higher performance compared to the old motor as well (needless to say)!! This summer I'll definitely need to get the exhaust done (budget didn't allow for me to do the entire system now like I originally planned. Once I get that done, I'll take it to get dyno tuned on a chassis dyno. The installers adjusted the carb and timing, so I would like to ensure I'm still making optimal power. But I am liking it thus far, looking forward to getting these first 500 miles out the way!
If you drive with a ski boot on your right foot that will make it harder to make the go peddle hit the floor. LOL Its gonna be hard to keep out of it for that long! Glad its running good for you, hope it stays that way! GL Derek
Man that looks good! Any advantage to running an open element air cleaner to the stock single snout? I like the sound, but considering both are open to the engine room air there's no possible gain except maybe air flow.
That is one sweet ride! It is always such a great feeling to get a vehicle going again. I have been following this thread with great interest as I have a very similar build, so thanks for posting it. I love the stock look! One thing I found though is that factory air cleaner noticeably reduces WOT performance above 4000 RPM (and nearly completely silences the 455's intake thunder) --that healthy 455 just can't get the air it needs through that snorkel. But there are several easy options to remedy this: Flip the air cleaner lid. Since that air cleaner takes a standard 14" X 3" element, you can also install a 14" X 4" element with the lid the correct way. This allows a 1" gap all around that allows in a bunch more air. You will need a longer stud, though, and check the hood clearance! Another option is to just install an open element air cleaner. Any way, the good news is performance will be just fine with the stock air cleaner configuration at part throttle and WOT below 4000. I apologize for this un asked for advice. Again, love the car and thanks for taking us with you on this journey!
Thanks! I'm here for any and all advice!!! My boss told me about flipping the air cleaner lid. Might just do that right now
