My 455 Build Thread

8ad,
By the way...I am not ignoring your camshaft advice. I didn't specifically respond to your posts but I am taking it all in. Much appreciated

 

I agree with Mike definitely have them CC'ed so you know for sure what your compression will be.

 

Hello,
Actually that's a fantastic response! Very gentlemanly.
You've got time to decide anyways.

I agree with everyone's advice.
Rather than A or B, I was offering a "C" based on something often overlooked.
The porting and attention to detail is what stands out on this thread.
I'm a big fan of using the cam's overlap with good heads for situations like this.

Most folks dealing with ported heads are spending the $$ to go faster, and might not consider what it does for driveability or what options it opens up.
Porting isn't usually in the budget for street cruisers, or normally thought of as a tool for such. It's really the only reason I jumped in on the thread.
I believe it's the best bang for buck if done right. It isn't a hard-sell at this point, you are starting with that gift. The ta 112 would be suggested otherwise.

People tend to get personal about cam selection, and internet advice can be scary.
It might also be the only place for dialogue where there isn't personal gain involved.
Besides...this is a much more pleasant and enjoyable topic than a streetable 750hp 455 thread. :Brow:

 

WARNING: EXTREMELY LONG POST

So I had most of my parts loaded up in my jeep. Today I paid a visit to the machine shop to get this project going. Ain't nothing to it but to do it, right?

As previously mentioned, I've paid these guys a visit before to get a feel for them. They've been held in high regards by members here in previous threads. For this project, I've touched based and communicated with multiple builders. These include a member here who owns a shop in PA, our very own Jim Wise, CME (cmengines.com), and Burtonsville Performance Machine. The combination of Buick experience and convenient location (15 minutes from my job), Burtonsville Performance Machine was the best choice for me. All other candidates were very responsive to my inquiries...much appreciated.

Shortly after reintroducing myself, I was in the shop, unloading my car. Today I dropped off the block, heads, timing chain cover, fuel pump, water pump, gaskets, rings, and lifters. He ("Bub") took inventory of everything, and took note of the parts I told him I'd be dropping off later this week. He was organized, and attentive. Good sign.





After offloading the parts, we had time to chit chat about random specifics of my build. Mind you, the only real communication I have about engines is HERE on this message board. Not interacting much in person with people who know engines, I was impressed with his knowledge. What made me feel even better was the fact that he listened to everything I had to say or ask.

I asked about the cam installation. Specifically, I asked "Do you guys degree the cam when you install it, or do you just do what I ask, be it 'straight up' or 4* advanced, etc'?" He shook his head and chuckled, "we have to degree them to make sure its installed properly. You have no clue what the actual grind is despite what they tell ya..." GOOD ANSWER.

I showed him my desired clearances, written on a piece of paper so there was no confusion. .002" on both. I came up with these requirements based on reading countless threads here.

We talked about milling the block. I told them I initially wanted the block just milled for flatness (same with the heads). After cleaning up the heads, they're gonna CC them so we can calculate the SCR. I told him based on my math & use of calculators, I'm looking at about 9.3:1. He asked me what I wanted...I told him 9-9.5:1. He took note accordingly.

I asked him if the cleaning of the block would remove the paint. Probably a dumb question. He told me it would, then asked if I would like them to paint it. Had no clue they did THAT too. So we discussed that too. Despite the engine being a 72, which is red...I'm going to paint it blue, as was found on the 76 blocks since the car is a 76.

We talked about my timing chain cover and oil pump. I explained the deal with the oil pump. He told me if it doesn't meet the clearance requirements, he's not gonna use it. "They make new ones, ya know?" he said...lol. I also talked with him about my discussion of the double vs single timing chain (as seen in my other thread). They're fine either way I wanna handle it...just let them know.

As expected, we discussed the need for the crank to be ground. No surprise there.


We also talked about some components to be reused from the current engine...which runs absolutely fine. Once removed, I'll have them clean and prep parts as necessary. (at a later point I'll decide to either keep them just in case...or sell them)


Finally we discussed to oil mods. I began explaining the main saddle holes. After letting me finish, he then pointed out most of the other buick mods, most of which are explained in JW's sticky. This guy knows Buicks. I said "oh...so I could have simply said I need the oil mods?" He laughed and said yes. Good feeling...

We discussed other stuff like payment, timeline, etc. After he formalizes & finalizes my invoice, I'll pay 30% for them to begin the work. He made it clear that he wanted to ensure that we are 100% on the same page before work commences. Estimated time to complete is 6 weeks. I asked about being able to come and see progress. He said I am free to come touch it as much as my heart desires during the process. This is great because I really want to see the progress. I WISH I could do this myself, so being able to watch the progress is gonna be good for me.

Logistically, I will drive my Electra there. The repair shop side will pull the engine. I will tow the car back to storage (not a lot of room for them to keep it there...nor do I want it to sit there). When it is installation time, I'll have it towed back to the shop. Not ideal, but not the end of the world.


I was so happy after talking with the shop. Not only did he clearly know buick engines, he listened to and addressed every question & concern I had. I started to tear up when I told him "I wish my grandfather was here to see this."

 

Very nice!! Developing a good relationship with your local engine builder/speed shop is always good! Not only does it make the engine building experience more pleasant or more likely to end in a good result, buddy up with them and you can not only learn a lot but see a lot of cool stuff as well. There were many Saturdays where I would just go hang out at my builders and became really good friends with all the guys. We'd bs over doughnuts and I learned a ton. Got to watch some dyno runs of some wicked cars, and just generally befriend some cool motor heads. As a matter of fact, I need to go see those guys soon, its been a minute.

 

Ordered my engine paint online today. "GM Blue" was the color for '76 (proper name was GM Corporate Blue). I got 3 cans.

I also joined AAA today. The towing from & to the engine shop will more than pay for the membership fee...

 

Why not drive the car there when the engine is ready so they can take one out and put the other one back in so the car has a running engine in it while you have it. That way you won't need any towing, drop off car pick it up and its done, no dealing with a car that can't move under its own power.

Is it just me or does it make more sense to do it this way?



Derek

 

Derek,

There are quite a few parts I will be reusing from the current motor. Stuff like oil pan, carb, alternator, starter, air cleaner. This will also give me time to clean the engine bay prior to the new installation.

 

A engine crane rental remove a few bolts and out the engine comes! I would rather do that than do all that towing, removing an engine isn't rocket science basic tools is all that's needed.

I leave the trans in and the hood on when I remove an engine, piece of cake. If you have a garage to do the clean up work you should be able to remove the engine yourself and even install it yourself if you wanted. Looks like you know how to disassemble an engine, unless that's how you bought your core? Its up to you, its your $$$, if you were close by I would go there and help if you bought the beer. GL


Derek

 

As mentioned in an earlier thread, your build is very similar to the last 2 of mine.
I wouldn't worry about the 212 cam I don't have problems with mine and it's great for highway passing.
If you don't already know you will soon find out our rear ends are the proverbial red-headed step child.
I would look for a posi unit with at least 2.93 gears to help you out of the hole
Good luck and keep the pics coming

 

I did buy the engine in separate parts, but I am not foreign to turning a wrench. I've done quite a bit of work on my old Buick and my old Saturn.

But I don't have a garage to use, nor do I even have a driveway...condo living sucks in this regard! I would love to pull the engine myself to save the labor for engine removal. I can easily disassemble it as well, its just a logistics thing for me right now.

If anyone in the DC area wants to help me pull this engine, please let me know

 

I actually contacted monzaz a while back for guidance for a 2.93 posi. I might have to re-engage him on this...

 

Good thread, I'll be following it. So out of curiosity, why didn't you reuse your old block? Or does the car have a 350 now?

 

I WAS going to have the engine built by someone out of town. The ORIGINAL plan was to drive the car there...drop it off (have them pull, disassemble & rebuild it) then pick it up when completed. I didn't want to be without the car for that long, so I figured buying the spare parts would minimize downtime...I could still be here enjoying the car while the engine was being built. I got a good deal on the block, so I morphed my plan in to building the spare motor.

The car has a 455 in it now which runs really well. Only hiccups the car has is a valve cover gasket leak near cylinder #8, and an exhaust leak on the driver's side near the downpipe, both of which I purposely avoided repairing, knowing the new motor plans were coming to fruition.

I wish I could be more hands-on, but again...the logistics don't make it convenient for me to do so right now.

 

Figured I'd share a copy of my build budget I've created. Buying items piece-by-piece helps lessen the blow. Not being in a rush allowed me to wait for deals. I found a few items by contacting members here in response to old "for Sale" threads, and even if the part was long gone, people often had old parts laying around that they offered in private. I started buying parts in October 2014 when I got the car.

This budget does not account for some things like ignition components, carb rebuild, and additional shop services like oil mods, dyno tuning, installation.



Green items have already been purchased.

 

So I dropped off another batch of parts to the shop today. Pistons, cam bearings, camshaft, head bolts, engine paint and other misc items. I haven't made a deposit yet, but they went ahead and checked the cylinder bores, and they were within spec to be homed to accept the .030 pistons. They also CC'd the heads. 68.2 CC's. This surprised me, as I was expecting low 70s for the volume. This puts my SCR calc in the 9.4 neighborhood. They said the heads were perfectly flat, and didn't require any more milling (I was glad to hear that.) A couple of guides need replacing, and one seat as well.

I got my intake as well, but I'm gonna hold on to it and paint it (aluminum color). Headers should be in early next week. I'll make my deposit for them to begin the work at that point.

 

Oh, and by the way, I went with the 112 cam. I'll contact TA to return the 212 that just came in today. Thanks for the advice & discussion on cam selection. Admittedly, it's a topic that I really could stand to learn more about.

 

Chromed goodness.

 

Dropped off the headers, and made my first payment. So the build officially begins. Hope to have some progress pics to share here within a few weeks.