I agree the Mylar watershields are way better. The paper type got wet on my orig doors and stayed wet and caused rust on the inner part of the door. The mylar will keep water out.
I know. I might as well just back half it and cage it at this point. Well, its not like the door panels arent already warped. I bet you those stupid panels warped after the first rainstorm when these cars were new! I cant get the mylar ones. Its not the way GM did it!!! Who's going to see them you ask? No one. But I'll know they're not right and it will eat away at me. Just like those hard plastic door panel plugs. Dave- the paper watershields that got wet were original or repro? What really amazes me is that Jennifer puts up with it all. I can remember wheels on a car I saw 15 years ago, or the GM numbers for door weatherstripsou: , but I didnt remember my anniversary on Friday ou: 17 years :beers2: She's eligible for saint hood
Jason, have you removed the drain plugs in your rocker panels and used compressed air and all sorts of coat hangers and stuff to poke up inside of them to make sure they are draining properly and dont have any dirt or debris in them... Use a shop vac at one end and the compressed air at the other to get the trash out of there... I think we all got the same affliction. Bert
Bert....Been there. Ive explored every orifice....of my car that is p Get your minds out of the gutter!!!
"I cant get the mylar ones. Its not the way GM did it!!!" You guys are funny, I have used pieces cut out of "hefty" trash bags for years.:laugh: Duane
White or black? I prefer the white. Hearing this from your mouth (keyboard) Duane just made my day. I've done that on more than one occasion and always felt a little guilty. I can now make peace with myself.
I thought the idea was to protect the door panels, so why not do the best job you can. Besides they go inside the doors where you can't see them anyway, so who cares what you put in there. (I prefer the black ones.:laugh: and tape them in, for a better seal.) Duane PS. One of the tricks I use to install front bench seat tops is to cover the frames/cushions with a plactic bag and then slip the seat covers over them. The covers slide on nice, and the bags reduce the chance of the covers tearing. Once on, I trim off the excess bag at the bottom, and finish them up. Do you think I care if someone opens up the seat covers some years later and finds a plastic bag under them? Or maybe someone would figure out the installer was a little smarter then they originally figured!
After forgetting your anniversary, you won't be exploring any more orifices for awhile:laugh: Jason, if I forget to tell you, you are a maniacou:
Ok, I finally got the door all put back together. The new Soffseals are on. The new clips and clip retainers got here from AMK. Nice stuff. I discovered something strange and I dont have the 71 here to compare- I noticed that someone shimmed up the two metal door panel hooks that are bolted to the top of the door shell. These are the hooks that hook into the top metal piece of the door panel. There were a couple of nuts in between the hooks and the shell. Im guessing to raise the door panel up. I found that odd. I removed them and everything seemed to line up better afterwards- clips, holes etc... Before I removed it, the door panel sat at almost the same height as the outer dew wipe or fuzzy. Now the panel sits lower. Wierd. Here's a couple of pics. Jamb look alot nicer with new paint.
in the past I have used the soffseal ones(on quite a few different vehicles)-they dont fit for beans! They may look like they fit better, but you have to slam the doors to get them to close! I will be trying the metro's on my GS. They are a lot less expensive and they seem to be softer than the soffseal's. They dont look much different than the originals-if any in my opinion. The soffseals look swolen compared to the oem's.
I have Metro door seals on my '68 GS convert and they fit great with no problems. It took a day for them to "set" so my doors would close smoothly but after that, no problems. I cannot speak for Softseal since I have never used them. :TU:
Mike,I hope they fit better then this... Getting Ridiculous. Maybe I don't know wtf I am doing here ? DL
You should have asked them that very question in the next e-mail, while reminding them of our massive group. I'd be interested in THAT reply!!!!:spank: You know I thought of that when I put the renewed Riv stiff in,but thought, noooo, there's probably a reason NOT to do it!!!!:laugh: :beer
Mike, looks like yours are stretched to fit properly. It also looks like it barely covers the opening. In fact, I can see a very small section of the cutout they are supposed to cover.
Yes it just about covers that cutout.... I have to clean that black adheasive off, never noticed until I took the picture.. That suff makes a mess :laugh: DL's look like there are a few mounting holes missingo No:
I wish someone would make a real reproduction set of door weatherstrips. Ones that actually replicate the originals. After replacing these I can understand why people pay 600 bucks for NOS. I think the Soffseals, while they look nothing like the originals, fit much better than the Metros.
600? The last set I saw went for over a grand on Ebay and roof rails went for 1400 I used soft seal for the other Suncoupe and they fit fine. They were hard to close and I also had a problem with them sticking to the painted surface of the A pillar. I finally ripped the one on the drivers side at a factory welded (glued) seam. Now I put a little powder on them and they work fine.
I really cant understand why they cant make a perfect repro. Its not like they fit just Buicks. They fit every A body hartop across the line. Would you pay $350 if it was a carbon copy of a GM original? I would. I cant belive that guys doing mega buck restos settle for these. If someone comes out with a perfect repro that is identical to the originals, he's going to make a killing.
