Looking for suggestions and expert advice: Upgrading my 1970 455 engine to a modern 455 engine

Yes he did, back in 2012, he rebuilt the engine and upgraded it to Stage 1 specs.

We also found out someone else has been into this engine sometime between 2015 and 2020. That when the car was sold to the previous owner before me by a car dealer.
I wish I knew who butchered this engine. I would kick his ass. VET


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I wouldn't think so or hope not..
10, 15 even more years after I built a motor I still would of had all the paper work that was done. It's a safety backup thing which 100% I think would agree.

No rant...Your just frustrated big time and understandable..

 

I've found out with some Classic Restorers, some want paperwork (engine work) and some don't.
If a Restorer has been working with a engine rebuilder for a long time and they are friends, it goes like this. Restorer calls engine builder, hey Nick, i'am sending you a 1970 Buick 455, I need you to rebuild is as soon as you can get to it. Rebuild it to Stage 1 specs, send me your quote, I'll have a check in the mail for you.

This is common business practice between friends.

When I built my engine, I had every receipt and part numbers. VET

 

Mark, JC built my engine in 2012. Car was sold to the previous owner before me in 2015. Somewhere between 2015 and 2020 someone else got into this engine and really screwed it up.
This is where all the problems started. I bought this car in 2021. VET

 

Here you go, Vet, here’s an example of what can be done with iron heads. Cam looks to be fairly mild and probably run powerbrakes and AC.

 

I'am on my cell phone at Doctor's appointment.

I'll see this info better on my desktop computer.

Can't wait to read what it says
Thank you so much.

 

This guy got great HP & TQ numbers, more than 450HP.
He also put a lot of bucks $$$ up to do all this.

Lets take a look:
(1) He has his rods shot peened and balanced.
(2) His carb is 100 cfm more than mine.
(3) He's running a Edelbrock Performer. I would NOT because with a Performer, I can't use my Ram Air cleaner system.
(4) His Alum intake is port match. Mine is port match to but a Buick iron intake.
(5) His cam and my Comp cam are close in specs with the exception he has 4* advance grind into his cam. I would keep my cam because it too supports my power brakes and pulls very good.
(6) We both have 462 ci blocks.
(7) Timing: His timing is way higher than mine. Not sure I can reach his level. I'm at 33* all in @ 3200 rpms. Initial is @ 10*.
(8) Our pistons I believe are the same are very close. I might be a little higher on the CR.

I would have to spend a lot of $$$'s to get to where he is. Don't want to do that.

I think I can get closer by adding:
(1) Alum intake port matched.
(2) Tube headers.
(3) 850 to 870 Carb.
(4) Maybe having a 3.42 differential instead of my highway 2.93.

Of course, this is a lot of speculation on my part. VET

 

For the record, the performer is the aluminum intake, which is exactly like the cast iron intake and will match up to the ram air inlet on the hood. I bet if you take the ram air, air breather off and run a regular air breather, you’ll feel the difference in performance. It’s a known fact that the ram air hood does not work. The inlets are too far in front of the hood the air goes right over them.

 

I was just showing you example of how you can get to your goal actually more than your goal.

 

If I were you when you get your car back, I’d bump the timing back 30° get rid of the ram air air breather, just use it for car shows and enjoy the car till you decide to put some gear in the rear 2:93 gear are lazy from a dead stop great for cruising. I did run a 13.67 at 101.50 mph with 293 years back in the day. Finally shifted into third gear going through the lights.

 

Dear VET and V-8 Buick fans of "more!"

You are going to have to decide how much money and time you want to put into any upgrades. The engine in my trusty wagon ended up producing around 500 horsepower, but cost me a very pretty penny and it was years before I could drive the car again. Upgrading to electronic fuel injection wouldn't take more than a few weeks even if you decided to do the safest thing and replace the fuel tank and provide a return line. Some kits can be done FYI if you are bold enough. It is okay to do some "window shopping" and day dreaming. However, sooner or later you'll need to really decide what you want out of the car. If the screw-ups in the engine have to be addressed, then you'll simply have to take your medicine. But if you can enjoy the car now - that is most definitely something to consider. After all, what's the point of owning a car you can't enjoy it - now!

Edouard

 

I get what you're doing for me.
I have another air cleaner for performance. I use the ram air for shows and I like the look, even if it doesn't give me any more zip.
Thank you for taking the time to provide this info for me.
I need all the advise and info for this Buick, thank you. VET

 

B

Brett, nice to know I can use either intake. I'am leaning towards the single plane B4B intake.
Thank you for taking your time to help me, I appreciate it. VET

 

I agree 100% with you. I will enjoy the car for awhile before I consider to bump-up the HP & TQ.
I will be 75 in January, so I am time limited.
I think my first step is to replace my highway 2.93 diff with a 3.42. This should give me some
"push me harder in the seat".
Thank you for your opinion and advise, it helps me to make a sound decision. VET

 

You'll love this story. I go to the shop to pickup my old parts that can still be used. After I pack them up in my van.

I have a discussion with the shop owner and the head engine mechanic and they both tell me I have to run Octane Booster or Race Gas in my Buick.
Why I ask? They tell me with the Kenne Bell pistons and the possibility of having .020 thick steel heads gaskets plus they now think the heads have been milled. They believe my CR is maybe 11.1. The cause of the detonation problems.

Wow, that was amazing piece of information. I said, can you prove I have 11.0 CR. They said, not unless you give us approval to get remove the heads and do some measurements. If they are 11.0 CR, a rebuild is next on the To Do List.

I told them I drove the car for 170 miles before I took it back to them because of the loud fan clutch. I had no pinging and it was in August, super hot days.
They said they had added Octane Booster so there was some left in the tank. I said no, because they only put in 5 gallons. That gets me about 60 miles of driving, so I filled it up
(20 gallons).
They said if I have a detonation issue, they will not be held liable.
Now I am a little worried.
I pickup the Buick next week and put it up for the winter.
It will be a long time when I see another hot day.
I just can't believe this Buick has 11.0 CR. This sucks. This car has been a pain for two years it's been in the shop.

 

You've got a lot of what ifs... don't try to solve them all in a vacuum.
One thing at a time. Get the car home. Put some miles on it. Fix what needs fixing.
If it comes down to adding some octane boost or tearing the engine down after two years of owning an not driving it, I know what my course of action would be, at least in the short-term.
As someone who believes that good enough isn't good enough, I admit there is a whole lot of truth in “don’t let good get in the way of perfection.“ You just have to find the balance that works for you.

 

The 11:1 compression is not the cause of the detonation. It’s the gas you have been using because you didn’t know the history of the car. If you trust them working on your car, why don’t
you have them installed a different set of thicker head gaskets intake, gaskets. Have the mechanic get in touch with TA Performance they will be able to help him out figuring what thickness head gasket to lower the compression.

 

VP octane boost

 

Quit fantasizing about your possible future problems.
Get the car home and drive it. Drive a couple tanks of gas thru it before you decide anything.