My dad has a - White GT-1855 Riding Lawnmower - and has lost his a manual . The local shops say they don't keep old manuals. Does anybody know where to find information on these lawn tractors ? It is around a 1996 model. The solenoid switch is bad and we need a part number, along with other switches. Any help would be appreciated.
jarrod go to there web site and look it up. i have a huscvana (hope i spelled that right) and i bought it used and they had the whole manual online. give it a try
never mind yes i did put some things on that site the other day and left my email. came across it and droped some in on some want adds. forgot. no one emailed me on any of it
White is the same exact machine as MTD.........try going to an MTD dealer..........I can tell you from experience that model numbers and part numbers are a joke on this brand. Even the dealer I use has problems and needs to call the factory from time to time for clarification. If you can post a pix of your solenoid, I will see if I can match one up for you. :bglasses: Also, all those switches work together, your solenoid may be OK.......try bypassing it first to check it. "Dead man switch" circuits can be difficult to troubleshoot without a schematic.
MTD Mower Jarrod, Look under the seat for model and serial number. If you post those numbers I will send you a copy of the manual in pdf form or I can give you the part numbers to the items your were asking about. I am the test department supervisor for MTD Products headquarters in Valley City Ohio so I should be able to help you out.
Re: MTD Mower So is your dept. the one responsible for allowing those cheap auger gearboxes on the MTD snowblowers? I've seen them split open just from injesting a chunk of ice. You may as well have made them out of wood. :error: :grin:
Joe, It's the job of the auger shear bolts to fail before the gearbox. We inject a 1" soild steel shaft into a running auger and very rarely blow out a gear box. You can't put Buick headbolts in the auger shaft and expect the gear box to hold up when you ingest your neighbors mailbox. We are getting off the subject here, I was only trying to help Jarrod.
I didn't mean to :blast: you. It's just that I see a lot of those with wasted gears with the correct shear pins. So far many of the ones I have gotten I notice the pins bend but do not break as they are supposed to and as a result the thin cast aluminum housing splits open. Not only that, I have seen more than a few where the whole thin metal blower housing spreads apart and the auger shaft pops out of the plastic bushings that holds it into place. I just feel that MTD makes flimsy machines............no personal attack here. :bglasses:
Well guy's i haven't been on the board for a few days because it's been busy, and i decided to look at my dad's lawnmower myself. Here is what we found : One of the relay switches turned out to be bad so we crossed it and got it to start . The next problem was when you engaged the mower deck it would stall. We disconnected the deck to eliminate the front drive belt as our problem. We then took the belt off the mower deck to eliminate the gear box as our problem. We noticed one of the idler pulley's was loose on the deck so we changed that and tightened everything back up. Now that all that was done we had killled the battery from trying so many different things. We put a charger on it and accidently started it with the deck engaged. We were suprised to see it start so we thought we fixed the problem. Once it was fully charged we tried it again but it STALLED once we engaged the deck. (AGAIN) Any ideals ? o No: As for serial numbers they are long gone and nowhere's to be found. To make a long story short we still have a lawnmower that runs great and stalls once you engage the deck. p.s forgot to mention that if you engage the deck really slow it will work. But that's not good enough for us! it was working fine 3 weeks ago. That's how long we've been pushing a mower. I shouldn't complain cause i could afford to lose some pounds / girth / weight / blubber / love handles / another being / spare tire. did i forget any ? :grin:
After reading your symptoms, I originally thought you have a siezed bearing in one of your blade spindles, something I occassionally find. However, since if you engage the blades slowly it works, it sounds to me like an engine problem. I don't know what engine you have, and rerluctant to go out on a limb and spit out a possible cause, I'll assume you may have compression trouble. I have seen many briggs and stratton engines (mainly 12 and 12.5 HP) where the intake valve seat loosens up and actually comes out of the block and causes poor compression. This is caused (among other things) by overheating from either running the engine to slow, or more likely, a build up of grass clippings in the blower housing that restricts the airflow making the engine run too hot. You should also check for a blown head gasket. Try engaging the blades with the choke applied, and if it helps and the mower seems to have enough power you may just have a lean fuel mixture. I Hope this helps you. :bglasses:
Re: Re: MTD Mower yea.. they use the same gear box on there 46" snow thrower that mounts to the front of an 18hp lawn tractor. didnt take long to break that. nate
on the tractor issue. it could be possible that the flywheel pin sheared some to give hard starting and loss of power. the MTD/White mowers also use a break on the center pully that is spring loaded to pull away when you lower the deck one click. the spring may have come disengauged. nate oh btw.. its not the larger opposed twin cylinder is it?
The motor is a Vanguard 18HP / V-twin Do you guy's know what the compression is suppose to be ? o No: Once again Thanks in advance :TU:
Anything is possible, but the only way to be certain would be to take the heads off and visually check the valves and seats for wear and warpage, particularly the exhaust valves and check the guides for excess looseness. Too little tappet clearance could also cause this problem. Are you sure both cylinders are firing? It's hard to tell on those unless you have a good ear for that. If it's stalling under the application of load, and you are certain nothing is binding (like a tight bearing) it is probably not making enough power. :bglasses: Once I had a 18HP Vanguard engine on a carpet cleaning machine that had very low power and it was just simply worn out although it ran good. If yours has a lot of hours on it, and seems to be blowing oil out into the air cleaner, it may just be tired. That is caused by excess blow by from worn rings. You can get a new engine from Tulsa Engine Warehouse for a cheap price, you can find them on the web..........I'm too lazy to post the link.:grin:
