Lifter tick only when not on level ground?

Ya sorry wrong word came out.

How can I meassure chain slack thru the hole? There isnt much but if I turn the engine backwards so the slack is on the fpump side , then there is.

 

Remove distributor cap and watch rotor. Turn engine normal rotation by hand until timing mark aligns at zero, reverse rotation until rotor moves again in reverse direction. measure the distance or judge by timing BTDC.

 

8 degrees on the cranks timing marks before the rotor began to move...

 

That is runnable but it makes for sluggish response and low speed performance, your valve timing is retarded that much, spark timing can be adjusted.

 

Thanks. Should it be no slack? How should the spark timing should be adjusted to compensate?

 

Just read this about installing a torque converter. (Just doing some studying)

"If engaged correctly, when you turn the new torque converter back and forth you can usually hear a click click noise, this is the drive neck moving the pump drive gear left to right in the transmission pump housing."

Is this "pump drive gear" in the "transmission pump housing" a part that is in the converter or in the transmission? It appears to say it is in/on the transmission. In my videos in the first post of this thread, could that be the click sound while running? Under acceleration it clicked faster. Id hate to replace a converter and find out it was something else in the trans.

Help please if you know anyone who you can show my vids too. Here they are again:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gc7yEgsuXl4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knisVkwFfDc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYRD4KxQ23E

 

This noise must be pretty much uncharted territory from all the years the car / 350 / TH350 has been around?

 

Engine pulled, Confirmed the flexplate is cracked. When replacing what should I get?

 

Purchase a new on from T/A performance.

 

I ran a Comp Cams high energy 268 cam in my 350. It's 3 bumps from stock, but still noticeable. Mild lope at idle, and much better throttle response.

I had a similar issue with mine. Sounded like a rod knocking. Turned out my flexplate mount bolts were loose at the crankshaft. At start up and with no load, it sounded like there was no oil in the engine. Under load, everything went quiet. Since the bolt holes had been elongated, I replaced the flexplate, and no more issues.

-Josh

 

Good to hear:TU:

 

easy fix .....:TU:

 

TA Perf "stock" flexplate installed, no more noise! Happy camper

Converter from Jim Weise installed as well, I like it.

Now my question is how should I install a tranny temp gauge. I have a triple 2" set mounted in the car below the radio right now, water, oil and volts. They are sunpro and not expensive, but a matching 2" tranny temp gauge would be nice right next to it. Or even in place of volts.
Anyone have tips for someone who hasnt ever had a trans gauge?
T into the line maybe?
Maybe it rdepends on the gauge install "kit"?
I wonder if another gauge the same as teh one that currently does water temp could do it. But it has a fairly large probe on the end of capillary line...
Thanks

 

Depends on how high stall is but if you have a good auxiliary trans cooler I don't think you need a temp gauge on trans

 

Jims 9.5 inch "2800" stall. The car begins to move almost as easily as it did with the stock converter when at low rpm.

I have two of these smaller hayden units in series only, I bypassed the internal radiator cooler.



The thing is I dont have a tach so I dont realy now exactly what rpm things are happening.
I will be installing a 3.08 diff I have, but currently still have the 2.56 in it.

 

Well now, I really like this torque converter. Nice job Jim!
Keeps me in the "power band" most of the time and does seem to rev up quicker.

I checked the trans pan temp after some spirited driving and slow cruise in town and it was 142 degrees F. So my two coolers must be doing their job. Though it was only 60F out, not a hot summer day.
I think my timing must be right, no loose chain, it just runs too good.
The crazy thing is I think I had heard the flexplate tick randomly over the past 5 years, it was just slight and only sometimes, so apparently i had been running a cracked one quite a while. Sounded just like a lifter not getting enough oil but never found an oiling issue.
Heres a shot of the 9.5 inch converter.



Here is the engine all cleaned up and painted, with new pan gasket before reinstall.



Wife helped lowering the engine while I lined it up on the mounts, otherwise all done myself, not even too difficult. Thanks for all your advise guys, in this thread and others.

Now I really want a hood tach.

 

Loose converter bolts will give a distinctive knocking sound for sure. Heard it several times in the past on other's cars.

I had a flexplate crack on a Buick 350 before (my first Buick, a 350-2 which everyone thought had a 4 barrel on it from the sound and performance, thanks to some tuning tricks), and have diagnosed them on other cars as well. Most of the time, no sound or issues are apparent (other than an occasional very slight vibration), until power is applied, and then it's usually after you wind it up a bit. Sounds like metal smacking against metal. I suspect it's the vibration moving the cracked part and is smacking/hammering against the crankshaft.

Never heard one ticking at low RPM sounding like a lifter that I can remember, but it doesn't surprise me. The loud smacking/hammering sound sounded almost like floating valves smacking against the valvetrain components (maybe it was a combination of the two? lol) but I'm pretty confident it wasn't, since the stock 350 (more than a couple) never displayed any audible or performance indications that the valves were floating. The big blocks, on the other hand, WILL float them much past 5600 RPM on stock engines.


Sorry about coming in a bit late on this thread. Just wanted to share some thoughts.


Gary