TA performance will have different thickness gaskets.40 GM. steel gaskets you could double up but you only have two. Give me a call it's easier to talk than type.
I have 6.6 Carrillo rods in my motor and they don't hit the oil pan. You might want to check to see you have a stroked crank.
Seriously doubt it is a stroker because KB would have mentioned custom crank or custom pistons. Easy enough to confirm though. Get a set of calipers and measure the piston depth to the deck at minimum height and at maximum. Subtract minimum from maximum and there you have it. Best to measure at the edge above the pin to keep piston rock from making much of a difference. Probably could get a ballpark figure with a machinist rule. Get one of the new factory styled oil pans if you don't like the beat up pan. They have a trough to clear rods. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1976-...:uEoAAOSwDehbhBgh:sc:USPSPriority!17543!US!-1 TA sells one too but I can't tell in the picture if it has the trough but I believe it is the same: http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1511D It also appears to have the KB double gear hi-volume oil pump. Make sure you run synthetic 0-30 oil and never rev it up until thoroughly warmed up or dist/cam gear wear will ensue. You can run pump gas with that setup but I'd never get on it much with that small of a cam without some race gas in the tank or very conservative timing. Get some TA Orange Crush .040" head gaskets(forget multiple steel shim) or maybe some Cometic .060"(or more) after you CC the deck and heads to see what your actual compression ratio will be. Too late once you put it together. Those valve reliefs probably aren't more than 8-10 CC. Hopefully the heads aren't cut too much.
Yes it would EXCEPT you may have to change the whole timing chain cover. From KB that oil pump came with a longer than stock idler gear pin. What that means is the pin would have to be removed from the cover and replaced with a stock length one for the oil filter cover to fit. Much harder to do than it sounds. Been there tried to do that. Probably a good machine shop could do it. Another possibility is that one of the current "high volume" gear sets could be installed. They are only 1/4" taller than stock but may actually make up enough thickness to cover the pin if it protrudes less than 1/4". Not 100% on that. The later setup would be a good bit less stress on the dist/cam gears compared to the KB. Maybe not optimum but better. If the pin is replaced with a stock one I'd just use a new stock set of gears and regular thrust plate with proper oil pump end clearance.
Ok I actually have a nice used timing cover that I could install onto it and just go over it oil pump on that one
Be careful about jumping to swap a pump.......the clearances inside might be .003 or more and ment to have that much oil flow..........you swap out to standard volume pump and now you might not have enough flow to counter act all the leakage in the bearing and have very low pressure.
KB came out with that oil pump design when they start first started racing the 400s and they were blowing them up as quick as they could build them. Stock oil pump wasn't adequate enough for the 3 1/4 inch mains.
Like Ben said depends on clearances. Stock pump is fine if clearances are .002 or less. KB must have set them up loose or spinning those 400s to the moon to blow them up.....
Also decided I'm going to run a c 107 cam in the engine as I'm uncertain about the one that came in it
I was going to say that engine looked to be set up for something like a C107. That should help keep the DCR down. It would be interesting to measure the cam to see what it actually is. If you are going to degree the 107 cam in it would be easy to measure the original cam. Can you take a picture of the cam end-on so you can see a couple of the lobes? Pretty easy to tell a 107 because the lobes look "fat" compared to a more sedate street cam. With a stock oil pump you will know if the crank clearances are on the high side because the oil pressure will be very low at idle all warmed up. At that point best option would be as I said, which is late style 1/4" thick high volume pump with thrust plate set up with correct oil pump clearances. If you want to try a stock pump make sure you use a thrust plate to keep the efficiency up, again with correct clearances, and that will help the first time. KB was running 4.33 gears or higher and an automatic with converter slippage factored in right from the get-go and running 6000+ through the traps. Found out in a hurry that they were no small block Chevys. I wonder if before Buick came up with the Stage 1 60 psi oil pressure spring would anybody else have figured that out and how much pressure the 400's needed to run high rpm.
