I ordered a starter for a 95 Caprice to put on my 455 BBB, got the starter a few days later, installed it, did away with the resister wire because I have HEI don't need it, right? Wrong it wouldn't start. It really turns over nice but I forgot that I spliced the R wire to the power wire for the HEI because there is no power to it when the switch is in the start position. I don't really want to add a switch to power the HEI when cranking, do they make a solenoid with an R terminal for those starters? I'm not asking for a friend! lol Bob H.
Bob. No idea if this helps.. page 2. part 2..https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/r9100instructions.pdf https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-10038-Terminal-Diode-Kit/dp/B078WHQX82
This is one. It depends on what starter is being used. 95 chevy used a PG250. Not a good starter so they have been upgraded to a newer style. If you don't know the starter number post a pic of the starter.
another view. The PG 250 does not have the plunger like this one does. I suspect you probably have this one.
I would power the HEI with a wire that is hot in crank and run. Unsure of what that entails on the 53, but you should be able to identify a spot on the fuse block or wire that will work with a test light or meter.
I can't be 100 % certain from that number, but a pic of the solenoid and starter on the car or off would allow me to nail it down. I suspect the one shown is what you need. You could also do the diode from the starter to solenoid post to the HEI
This one is new. I'll sell it if you want it. If you live near a marina they may have one. It is used on marine starters.
What Larry said. You apparently have the HEI connected to an accessory wire that doesn't power up during cranking, like a radio would do. Find the terminal connector on the firewall plug where the former resistor wire goes to and use that connection. The resitor wire typically starts right at the firewall connector. Another possibility is what Hugger said. You would be able to use the former resistor wire at the coil to turn the relay on because the relay hardly uses any current compared to the coil and thereby the coil should receive enough voltage to turn it on.
My thoughts exactly. There must be a wire that is powered in the crank and run position. It would be easy to jump your current "run" wire under the dash with minimal surgery.
So far every thing I have tested so far the power goes off in the start postion, still looking. At 81 crawling around under the dash is no picnic!
Thanks for all the help guys, the wiring is all aftermarket, so far I haven't found a wire that turns on with the switch that stays on in the crank position. Getting under the dash is a chore and being able to see when I'm under there is another chore. I am going to post a picture of the starter tomorrow. Bob H.
Once you remember i bet you could call their tech line and they could tell you what to do in 5 minutes flat.
This one would have solved all your problems. Has the right solenoid and bolts to boot. https://www.dbelectrical.com/produc...-jeep-mini-starter-long-short-mt-sdr0059.html Now it's unavailable.
Bob, All you need is a one-way diode. I use 5 amps on my mini's I sell, BUT you can use 3 amp if the 5 isn't readily avalable to you. It hooks up to the terminal under where the battery cable goes that actually operates the starter. The diode gets connected to the original yellow wire. There is a band on the end of the diode that goes to the yellow wire. Since it's basically a one-way valve it won't allow voltage back to the starter. Tom T.
I ended up going with the Jeg's terminal diode kit that Quick Buick suggested, quick and simple, I hope! Bob H.
