How to get the most out of my '72 2 bbl 350 with 115000 miles on it.

The bold statement isnt exactly true. I run 40* timing at idle in my 15-1 comp race motors. No load at idle so nothing to hurt.Ildes great and plugs are clean.

The underlined statement isnt quite right either. Most folks engines need to be over timed going down track because they are waay too rich and or have too tight a converter and low gear pulling engines accelaration rate down in the midlle of the track. Some folks gain mph pulling timing down track and manipulating timing around peak torque or at the shift to prevent wheel spin.

Just saying.
Carry on

 

OK Nick I'll clarify as if you don't know what I mean.

Near stock street cars, NOT all out drag cars, NASCAR, drag boats, motorcycles, tractor pullers, dune buggies, bar stools, etc.

Within the context of the original posters vehicle I stand by my statements.

 

Ditto.
:TU:
:TU:

And i still believe and have data to back up what i said.
Most if not all cars regardless of level( stock/mild radical etc) of build, are over carbed,over timed,over fueled and have too tight a converter.
But hey, i know what works for me and we can agree to disagree

 

And to take it one step further.
I live and race in Denver, where everything needs more timing than sea level as all engines up here are down in cylinder pressure compared to your elevation.
So i get the importance of ignition lead better than most and i still see similar trends
HMmmmmmmm

Like ive said previous times in other threads, your car runs better than most on here with similar parts,
But possibly some things being done that appear to work are just masking other issues
Aw hell, who knows

 

Nick, I agree most are over cammed/fueled/carbed. I'm guilty myself. When a cam cost $xxx no matter the spec it's hard to stop yourself from getting the bigger one.

 

Larry,please post your results! Good luck,have a good safe run!

 

I just got back from the garage and here is what I did. Before I loosened the cap, I checked where I was at 800 +/- RPM. I pointed the light and set the the advance on the light till I was at 0*. I read the display and it said 11*. I then set the light to read 32* and as described in the write up, it was below 0* by about an inch or a bit more (going from memory). I slowly reved the motor and watched the mark. It went down a bit, then shot up, slowly went down again then went back down until at 3000 +/- RPM it held steady below the zero mark. According to the write up if it is below 0* turn counter clockwise above turn clockwise. I turned the distributor counter clockwise and it was too far as I was at about 10* with timing light set to 32*. I went back and forth more slowly these times and got it set at the 0 mark with 32* showing on the light at 3000 RPM. I reved it up to around 3700 on accident and it didn't go up or down aside from about 1* bouncing. I shut the car off and started it back up with the timing light set to 0* the initial mark was not on the scale so I pushed the advance button till I reached 0* and this was at 840 RPM. The display read 16*. I reved it to 3000 and it still read 32*. I shut the car off and tightened the distributor and rechecked everything except where the mark was when I had the light set to 0* ou:. Everything was sort of the same except the car was idling at about 920 RPM and the timing came in at about 1* above 0 with the light still set at 16*. Does this sound about right? Should I be able to dial the factory distributor in without getting a curve kit? Thanks again for all the help. I do enjoy reading every ones comments too. I did not try manifold vacuum yet but I may.

 

Unfortunately for me I had a couple beers while working on it so I will have to wait until tomorrow. It did sound like it ran smoother though. Like someone else said though you can make a change and think you have improved but that's a mind thing.

 

Ok I didn't hook it up anyway. Would you suggest leaving it plugged?

 

Ok now you've opened up another door! Did you happen to do a write up on that? I will certainly Google it, but I don't know what you mean by that. There is so much that I don't know I could question you for years. I'll spare you that though and say many thanks for your help already.

 

I went to pick up a 455 today with with my dad (he has the truck to haul it). When we got back to my house my wife had left to go shopping so I was locked out. So I decided to take the buick for a ride because the garage was unlocked and the keys were in it. I was just gonna go to the store but I remembered the neighbor told me about a car show at lake shore park. On my way to the park there was a slow moving train that had me sitting for about 10 minutes. When I got to the harbor the lift bridge was up so I sat for another 10 minutes. Finally got to the park and parked the car. I walked around a bit and looked at the cars (only 1 Buick there). There was a rib cook off going on too so I grabbed a bite to eat. Went back to the car and turned it over and it took a long time to start. When I got home I shut the car off and hit the key right away and it fired right up. I hooked the vacuum advance back up and let it sit for about as long as I did at the park and it started just as hard as it did at the park. I need to get some gages in this thing to see what temp and oil pressure are. Larry, is this why you suggested setting the cannister 10*?

 

It turned over normal not sluggish. It seemed like it wasn't getting fuel so maybe it is getting too hot causing it to boil out. I have to get some gages. Thanks.

 

Hopefully, we can fix this with better understanding of these engines and not to let the 'bigger is always better' crowd dominate the stage.

It's not only about combination, but about application.

Personally, I've always found the sound of a stock cam to be far sexier than any rough-idling lope. To each his/her own.


Gary