help. Installed MSD distributor now oil light is on and loud knock

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by jimtash, Jun 21, 2008.

Page 2 of 4
  1. jimtash

    jimtash Well-Known Member

    Nevermind, I got it. It's the 12 mark.

    Car feels a little underpowered though. Gonna try and open up the plug gaps and see what that does and play around with the timing.
     
    jimtash, Jun 22, 2008
    #21
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member



    Do you have a dial back timing light? The MSD distributors come with 3 sets of springs and 4 different advance limit bushings. You need to consider that when you decide what your initial timing should be set at. I hope you didn't just arbitrarily decide to set it at 12* Do you know what the total timing is?

    http://www.v8buick.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=95151&d=1181920753

    You should be using the blue advance stop bushing to limit the mechanical advance to 21*. Then, with an initial timing of 12*, you'll have 33* of total timing, which should be just right for a nailhead. Use the spring combo that will get all your timing in before 2500 RPM. Then limit the vacuum advance to 8-10*, and you should be set.
     
    LARRY70GS, Jun 22, 2008
    #22
  3. jimtash

    jimtash Well-Known Member

    Used the black bushing and one light silver and one blue spring.

    Timing is set at 10.

    Don't think vacuum advance is adjustable.
     
    jimtash, Jun 22, 2008
    #23
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    OK, so you have 18* of mechanical advance. setting the initial at 10 will give you 28* total. You might want to try at least 12-14* initial so you have 30-32* total. The vacuum advance should be adjustable. With a quicker advance curve, you will need to shorten it up some I would think.
     
    LARRY70GS, Jun 22, 2008
    #24
  5. jimtash

    jimtash Well-Known Member

    What if I just keep it at 10, put the blue bushing in and keep the springs the way I have them.

    I do have a timing light BTW but I'm not gonna fool with it anymore today.

    As far as the vacuum advance, turn left for less and right for more?
     
    jimtash, Jun 22, 2008
    #25
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    OK, just looked at the MSD site, and the instructions for your distributor. The vacuum advance is limited to 10*. That is fine. I would run it off manifold vacuum.
     
    LARRY70GS, Jun 22, 2008
    #26
  7. jimtash

    jimtash Well-Known Member

    Put blue bushing back in?

    Don't run vacuum advance off of port on carb?
     
    jimtash, Jun 22, 2008
    #27
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member



    Yes, that will work. 10* +21* = 31*


    The vacuum advance may be adjustable for rate, as in spring pre load. Does it come with a small allen wrench?
     
    LARRY70GS, Jun 22, 2008
    #28
  9. jimtash

    jimtash Well-Known Member

    no wrench with kit
     
    jimtash, Jun 22, 2008
    #29
  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    Run it off a port on the carb that sucks at idle. Put the blue bushing in, yes.
     
    LARRY70GS, Jun 22, 2008
    #30
  11. jimtash

    jimtash Well-Known Member

    ok
     
    jimtash, Jun 22, 2008
    #31
  12. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Looked at the instructions again. The vacuum advance is not adjustable at all.
     
    LARRY70GS, Jun 22, 2008
    #32
  13. jimtash

    jimtash Well-Known Member

    OK, replaced the bushing and set it at 10* base. Now I'm getting a ping at WOT and under load. Also, the car feels underpowered. Back it off a few degrees?

    Edited to add that the tech guy on the MSD forums says the advance is coming in too quick. I'm thinking of going with one heavy and one light spring or even using the springs out of the original distributor. Right now, I have both blue one's on there.
     
    jimtash, Jun 23, 2008
    #33
  14. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    If you are switching from points did you bypass the restrictor wire? You need a full 12V and preferably 14V to make these run good.
     
    sailbrd, Jun 23, 2008
    #34
  15. jimtash

    jimtash Well-Known Member

    The only wires that I have going to it is the ignition lead wire from the car. It's the two wires that has a connector on the end of it and goes to the positive coil terminal.
     
    jimtash, Jun 23, 2008
    #35
  16. jimtash

    jimtash Well-Known Member

    I also want to add that the car has a very strong exhaust odor now as well. So much so that I can't run the car in an enclosed area with the door open. It's very overpowering.

    And I'm getting these puff puff sounds coming out of both exhaust as well. It did it before but now it occurs more frequently.

    Also ran it around 2000 RPMs and the engine feels like one or two cylinders drops off. Not missing but not exactly smooth either.
     
    jimtash, Jun 23, 2008
    #36
  17. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I think you have more going on than ignition timing. It may be running lean for some reason. Can you put a vacuum gauge on it?
     
    LARRY70GS, Jun 23, 2008
    #37
  18. jimtash

    jimtash Well-Known Member


    Don't have one but need to buy a mighty vac soon.

    What do I need to look for?
     
    jimtash, Jun 23, 2008
    #38
  19. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Vacuum gauges are cheap and an invaluable tuning and diagnostic tool. You don't need to look for anything special, just get a vacuum gauge at any parts store.
     
    LARRY70GS, Jun 23, 2008
    #39
  20. jimtash

    jimtash Well-Known Member

    You misunderstood me. What do I need to look for with the vacuum guage?

    Before, at WOT I would get black smoke out the pipe so I don't know if it's running rich or not.
     
    jimtash, Jun 23, 2008
    #40
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