Has anyone ever block filled a sbb 350?

So I have been looking all over for my tape measure that's been hiding on me for months! I finally found it and it was a bit off in previous posts. The actual amount of fill to the center of the freeze plugs will be more like 3 5/8" which brings the level just below the centerline of the inlet.

It was a balmy 40*F today so I ventured out in the garage and did some measuring and took some pics;

This is the passenger side US configuration.



Thought I would add this shot of the front of the block to see what the inlets look like without the tape in front of it.



This one is of the drivers side same configuration.



So 3 5/8" from the top down with the 1/2" gap below the inner deck's thickness is a little bit less than the stroke but I still think that will be just fine especially with the thrust side filled to the bottom. A mere .350" less than the 3.975" stroke on the bottom of the stroke where the combustion pressure is at its least with the exhaust valve quickly opening to relieve the pressure further. This would be to the center of the freeze plugs and would be right around 3.125" of solid fill surrounding all 8 cylinders. :Brow:

I believe the "half" fill failures that occur are from when the fill starts at the bottom and is filled upward ending in the center of the cylinder where there is WAY more cylinder pressure than on the bottom of the bore, basically where the explosion is.

Just thought I would share the measurements I was able to take because I found one of my tape measures, and now if only I could find the other tape measure!



Derek

 

Thanks for sharing it would be cool if it worked out well!

 

So in preparation to forge ahead with this block I have been looking at wax and so far came up with this;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-PURE-OR...hash=item5d607f8a5b:m:mCdrTAlv5cvOOKo7mUXBSwA

If the granules are small enough perhaps they can be poured in and then melted in the block so liquid wax doesn't stick to where its not wanted? Plus I have no idea how much I'll need, it shouldn't be that much though maybe a couple of lbs? But to be on the safe side more is always better than not enough! :eek2:

This is my first search and haven't tried Amazon yet to see if its available for a bit less but looks very promising.





Derek

 

How about paraffin wax?

 

Paraffin looks to be around $8 a lb but I have still been looking and this para-soy hybrid wax looks like it would work and only $3.20 a lb, $32 for 10 lbs!! A much better price range that can be more disposable than the more expensive stuff.

Here's a link;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PARA-SOY-TA...hash=item4d3562316f:m:mf8fJCE_z7L3fSrEja3CPAw

I'm still looking so maybe there will be an even more economical choice?



Derek

 

Ah well, to each his/her own.

I've not much to offer in the way of advice in this thread I suppose, other than this:

I sleep really well at night (figure of speech--I work night shift lol) knowing my Buick 350 will crank up every time I go out to start it up, rain or shine, freezing or hot.

Toys are fun and all if you can afford them, but so is much to be said for reliability and long life!

Knowing how well these things were made from the factory is reinforced by all the extra abuse they're put through in the aftermarket world.

I like boring and dependable--if by boring you mean 'less than 400 hp' haha.

Very interesting thread, carry on fellas.

 

Paraffin wax in 10 lb slabs are about $2.00 a pound

 

Well, I have only looked at eBay so far, where do they sell the paraffin 10 lb slabs at?

Found soy wax shipped for $19.95 for 10 lbs so far, but that's just on eBay that I have been searching tonight. That's about inline for the paraffin and the soy wax were granules to boot. Getting closer, a $1.99 1/2c per pound shipped for the 10 lb quantity.

I still want to check Amazon to see how much they're under cutting the eBay sellers. :Brow:



Derek

 

Any progress in filling the block? It would be cool if it worked out well!

 

Bought 10 pounds of wax, so ready for that part.

But due to circumstances beyond my control I'm without a vehicle at the moment. My '99 Sable just threw a rod or 2 and my truck has been plagued with electrical gremlins just before the weather got cold and is dead in the driveway! So my focus right now is trying to get a vehicle that runs. More info in the "other bench" on the matter.



Derek

 

Put together one of those boring old stock Buick 350's so you can have something you can depend on while you work on your other creations.

 

I have somewhat read through this thread, more like scanned. I filled a 350 block about 40 years ago, man does that sound bad. Anyway I still have that engine, still together. The last 350 that was in the wagon, actually. Back then I filled it with casting resin, which is the plastic we used as kids to make blue looking water on a school project or to drop a bug in to for a paper weight to give to mom.
How I moved the water from the timing cover into the block was simple. I drilled a tapped the timing cover in the turn on each side so the water could just flow straight out side ways. Tapped it 1/2 npt and screwed a piece of pipe in. On the block just around the front corner there is a vertical formation in the casting inline with the water hole in the deck, which is somewhat flat. There is enough room to tap into the block just below the deck. 1/2 npt again. I installed a nipple, and a tee. Lower end of the tee I had installed a petcock to drain the water. The tee faced forward with a nipple, I found a preformed 90' hose at the parts store and connected it to the timing cover. Worked great.
The plastic worked pretty good, when it cured it tightened up around the bores, requiring to re hone the block.
There were some comments I seen in this thread I would like to address which I have not the time right now. One, I have never in all my years ever seen a block crack at the grout line, nor have I ever had anyone ever call and tell a story of such. The only cracks I have ever seen with a grouted block were vertical on the thrust. Also, some of the depths I read from the deck down to the grout are to short, doing what has been written in this thread WILL cause a lack of water flow for more than one reason. Be careful.
When I have more time I will explain more , so sorry.

 

Hey Mike, thanks for taking the time to post.

In the bold, was discussing this with Dave and we did plan on a taller gap from the deck down, at least double than was written. Was going to reveal that after it was done but now is ok seeing how the thread is pulled to the top this minute.

I was thinking about drilling and tapping and running external cooling lines but would rather have more of a stealth look. But if you get a chance some pictures would be great to see how the external lines look like. Thanks







Derek

 

Sean, I have been following your Build for sometime now. I wanted to ask this question but its for You, TA Performance, and Jim W., I know the 350 Buick crank sets deep in the block. Has anyone tried cross bolting one before? I know now that the billet main girdle is very very strong but wouldn't it help being a cross bolt system too? Or no, not really.

 

I know this is on old thread, & the block is probably already filled. Back in 93 I filled a stock block 4.1 V6 up a little above the water pump openings. Since I wanted to use a stock water pump, I used modeling clay to form my water passage. It worked quite well. Probably the method I will use on the V8 blocks I'm going to fill here in the near future.

 

TBA

 

Bump