I'm keeping the 3.31 gears that are already in there. So at a minimum I should be getting the Eaton carrier, differential carrier bearings, carrier shims, and ring gear bolts? What about the pinion bearing, nut, pinion shims and crush sleeve? Can this be left alone?
Something that original you really should do everything. INCLUDING the axle bearings and seals. Once this is all done correctly you will be good for 10-20 more years easy. Jim
Hey Jim, thanks! Ya, I bought a video now on rebuilding a differential. I want to learn a lot first before diving into it. I haven't purchased any parts yet. Not sure if I should tackle it this fall or wait till early spring. Thank for sending the email. Matt
Well, I now have a baseline for my car with open rear end. About 17 seconds in the quarter mile. I need to keep it under 1500 rpm at the start to avoid just spinning the wheel. RPMs are about 3600-3700ish at the finish and about 85 mph.
I am sure when you get everything straightened out and use some sticky tires, you'll cut quite a bit of that E.T.
Ya, I'm glad I got a baseline time. It was pretty consistent. Any thoughts at what going to posi will shave off? Have 27" tires now. I'm thinking 26" won't hurt me much at all on the street.
A posi won't get you anything, you'll spin 2 wheels instead of 1. Going to the track without sticky tires is an exercise in futility. You need to get the 60' time down below 2 seconds minimum. Also, your trap speed is low for a 455. It should be above 90 MPH at least. Something is wrong. Are you sure you set the timing right?
The 60' time is low for sure. It's me feathering the gas pedal so I can move forward. I was thinking that with posi, I'd have double the friction and be able to start at a higher rpm than 1500. The street tires don't help, that's for sure. Is it possible the bushing I got wasn't big enough for all the advance in that distributor?
Like I said, you will spin both tires instead of one. You need sticky tires, no two ways about it. You will waste your time at the track if you try to launch on street tires. I really can't tell you if your timing is correct or not. At wide open throttle, you want 30-34*. I can tell you that even a well tuned Buick 350 will top 90 MPH in the 1/4. You are down on power for one reason or another. What do you know about the 1971 455 you have in the car now? Was it rebuilt?
I can't tell you much about the motor. It runs well and a mechanic thought the same. It's supposed to have a mild cam in it and the mechanic thought it sounded that way as well.
The low mph is probably just from making a one tire fire till the 1/8th mile. A posi will help some, but you'll have to launch from idle while slowly pressing the throttle until you can eventually floor it. It's hard to get better than a 2-2.2sec 60' without some sticky tires.
There are lots of guys who subscribe to the "bigger cam is better" theory. If you have too much cam for the static compression ratio, the engine will not be all it can be. What were you shifting at? Take a vacuum reading at idle in Park, fully warmed up. A mild cam will idle with about 14-15" of vacuum.
I believe that to be true. I'm slowly pressing the throttle so the one tire doesn't spin. Looks like posi traction and sticky tires for next year. This is going to be a fun experiment.
This is the cam that's supposed to be in there. Comp Cams recommended idle timing between 8 and 14 degrees initial advance and total timing at 30-34 degrees advance with this cam in a 455. I'm at 13 degrees advance at 750 RPM right now and 16.5" vacuum at idle. I was letting the TH400 shift itself, I wasn't paying close attention to that.
Blue Suede cruise last year I was able to get 1.880 60fot with my BF Goodrich radial tires and 22 psi. It was truly a miracle when I got the time slip only ran 13.01 1/4 mile BUT man that was pretty amazing i think for a all street tire not a drag radial. I have 18 runs to try and get the 60foot. I tried all different ways to launch more advance less advance messed with air pressure launch technique etc. HAD nothing else to do so that is how I spent the day. If you have never been to the BSC at NORWALK you should try it ...you get a lot of track time. You can go around and around. Jim
268 Comp cams are VERY torquey You will need slicks to not spin off the line. Should work very well ...
Ok guys, so last year I had the one wheel wonder and distributor with too much advance. My best 1/4 time was 16.8 with that. This year, I have posi and a distributor with 32*total mechanical and my best time was 15.2 seconds in the quarter. So that's a good thing. The issue I had today, besides it being hot and humid is that my car seems to go to pot at times after the 330 foot mark. I've been very inconsistent in the second half of the quarter. Now I know I can reduce the first 60 feet with sticky tires, I'm confused as to why my second half can be so sucky. Here's my best from 2015 run: Here's four from today with the posi and better distributor. Best to worst from left to right. First 60' seems so close. I let the car shift itself and I also tried manually shifting this TH400: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Every day is a surprise. I have no knowledge of what it has in it until I take things apart. When I had the carb gas leak last year and he went through the carb, he put in a stone fuel filter in it. Mechanical Fuel pump is newer. I have no fuel pressure gauge. Is it possible the throttle linkage has issues? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
