for Buick small block LOVERS let the flaming begin.

Spray your way to low et's!!!

My Regal launches hard, pulls great through 2nd gear, 3rd slacks somewhat.

 

Guy: how do you like that grind? Have you played with tuning? Just wondering... you always seem to trying something different. I'm trying a 830 cfm. dbl. pmp. Holley. If that works, may go slightly larger. Seems like I need more airflow. Runs real good without air cleaner! :Brow: :Brow:

 

the dual plane, wether stock or t/a kills the 350. you struggle to get 6k rpm. if you REALLY want the motor to wake up, it HAS to have a single plane intake. 7500 rpm is just waiting to happen.
i built a lesser version intake of mine for gunn. ask him what it did the first time out. he was suprised:laugh:

''good'' ported heads and a s/p intake is whats really needed for the sbb.

 

you know i beleive that 100% i ve got mild porting to the heads, 20 thou decked, an a 70 non-egr intake. what i can afford. if this is the best i can get for what i got into it, then so be it. 455 olds on the stand. over an over in my head.................

 

Stretching my memory here.

1989, I think. '70 GS350, light - no options. 10:1 as measured after new pistons/machine work. Early TA intake needed a lot of work just for port matching.

Heads were port matched, a bit of bowl cleanup. Stock valve sizes, good valve job. TA headers. 118 cam with Rhoades lifters.

Added 3000 stall, 4.11:1 gears, Holley spread bore replacement carb (800?) with a spacer.

We started out in the mid 14's, and in the next month with timing and carb tuning and launch technique, 13.80's on wide street radials, no slicks.

Open headers, head/intake work and tuning made it run, in my opinion.

Devon

 

I do like the cam because it does get me out of the hole faster but the first thing I noticed when I put it in was the fact that it did start to give up at around 5800-6000. The TA 510 cam I used would not do that but it was slower out of the hole. I had a 3500 stall convertor at the time but it was tight. I could only brake torque to 2500 before spinning wheels. I need the single plane intake with the TA 510 cam, a loose 3500 convertor, and about a 410-430 gears and maybe a little bit of that nitrous and I think that it will rock.

 

2 venues in building a 350.
get hold of zane racing and pick his brain. but its not a very streetable car anymore.
or start playing around with stuff like i did. either method is not hard.

btw, we use t/a 298h cam. it kicks, like a mule, in around 3500 and goes to 7500 with ease. it does take more time to get there with 3.73's vs 4.88's.

 

That century looks bad ass, its got to way 3800#. Try a 1 inch spacer or mill down the TA divider. It was the best trick I found for the intake besides some porting. The 350 likes some valve and porting.
I dont want to bring up easier combos Ive done with other brands, but 14s in a 4200# car for $2000 on a crap combo is easy.
Ive had a pumped nail head and 400hp was it.
The 455 was a cheap and easy 14 with some tweeking out of a wrecked car to start.
The 350 has a odd bore stroke combo and needs to be built differently than a *****. It pumps alot of air at low rpms.

 

Thinking back, big blocks in A-body's were get down rides in '68 thru 72'. Tuff to beat cubes. Go big block if you want to wrench.:spank: :bla: :TU:

 

I really need to pull apart my 350 and see what kind of shape this 'rebuilt' motor is in, it's strange because it doesn't push blue, seems to run excellently, but it just doesn't perform like other stock 350's on here, the cars light 3585 pounds with me and half a tank. The only thing is, I really don't want to go putting money into rebuilding the heads with new valves and a valve grind and shave and stuff if it's only going to get me mid 15's, when I've got a big block, the only thing is, I don't have all the parts or any money for the swap right now, or to build the BB, I don't want the car sitting in the garage for 4 years or something while I gather parts and money. I guess I should pull the 350 apart, determine if everythings in good running shape, re gasket it, re paint the engine compartment and clean the underside of the car, and drop the 350 in with the built trans and my 2400 stall converter and hope it will work better until I can get the 455 together.

I had a thought the other day, my current probably worn out TH350 did not come with any kick down cable from the previous owners, I usually just shift it manually or leave it in D, could this have aided the wearing out of the clutches because of quite a few times where I just left it in third at a much to low speed and romped on it? On the dyno when he left it in third the best we could get was 137 hp, when in second we got 153.7.
Now that I think about it, I should have bought a kickdown cable when I first got the car, ugg. Live and learn.

Ryan

 

Guy you had that cam custom ground for you from lunati?

 

50 shot of nitrous? o No:

 

Yeah, nitrous. Why not have the best of both. Look what Nick has done with a relatively lame engine. A big block swap will likely cost more than a power adder for the 350.

 

No. The cam came from the GSCA club. This cam was called the "Popular Mechanics Cam" This was the same basic cam that was made for the 455 engine. There was a lot of controversy on this cam because it had a lot of ramp speed and there was the possibility of "lifter crash" with this cam.

This must not have been as bad with the 350. I have been ok so far. The cam has been in for a lot of years and this is the one that I am using the nitrous with.
I do have roller rockers this probably helps some. The other thing that I did was I have been using the Comp Cams Pro Magnum lifters with the check ball in them. Whether this helps or not I do not know. But one thing is for sure with using these lifters is that they are NOT mushy like some of the others I have used.

The other thing that I noticed is that when you get up towards 6000 rpm you can tell that the cam has given up by then.

When I had the 350 trans in it I had gotten a 3500 stall that I could foot brake to 3000 rpm and THAT is when I got my best 60 fts. But when I put the nitrous to this it would blow the convertor to 5000 rpm and stay there.. this is when I broke the driveshaft and changed the trans to a 2004r.

If you want the real truth about it when I had the TA 510 cam in I didn't know as much as I do now(15 years ago). But that cam made the engine sound like a REAL race engine. This cam I have now doesn't even come close. I also think that I got better gas milage with the TA cam. The TA cam would go past 6000 rpm with ease. I have been thinking of putting this cam back in and putting more gear in the rear, since I now have a 4 speed auto. Maybe like a 430 gear and a convertor that I can footbrake to about 3200 rpm. Then of course a little nitrous!

 

Go with a 4.56 gear, and rip it up!

 

This is about the most stupid post I have seen in a long time. It did generate a bunch of conversation of people attempting to help you only because the 350 Buick is a passion for all of us here. Otherwise we would be elsewhere. Slanderizing our beloved 350 cause you have a "massive experience" with a SBC has got to be comparing apples to oranges if I have ever seen it. This kinda open mouth insert foot attitude warrants banning for life from the 350 forum.

If you are gonna build a 455, go brag about it on the 455 post page. I'm full up, this is the 350 page. If you would like to get some real answers about how to get that 350 to run correctly, then grow a set and learn when to shut your mouth and take notes. You are 19 years old and were not even born when this engine went out of production. Some of these guys were setting NHRA records with this "POS" engine you describe before you even knew what a Buick was.

My two cents are this....If your tranny goes into all gears, there is nothing wrong with it. If it was slipping then the engine itself would be zinging to the moon and the tires not even turning. Most likely you have been misinformed on what rearend gear you have. Check the number of teeth on the ring to the number of teeth on the pinion and divide. This will give you the exact gear ratio. When you put a car on the chassis dyno, they ask you the rearend gear, if it is misnumbered....you are getting incorrect dyno data. It must be dynoed in 1:1 or high gear for the TH350. If it is the case and you have 3.30:1 gears (which I seriously doubt), try a few other things. The KB article in the sticky section used a 1000 cfm Thermo Quad carb. They did this cause the heads and intake cannot flow enough air and they did not want to restrict any possible airflow coming in. It does not matter how well you tuned the A/F ratio, the restrictor plate you are using (i.e. 670 Holley) is killing the ability to make power in your SBB. FACT. Believe it.

Ebay is a source for Qjet carbs and they do not cost $500, more like $150, any Q-Jet will net a higher cfm rating than the Holley you have.

Try pushing the timing up a little but more until it detonates. You should be able to get about 16* initial outta it with good gas and 36 total right off idle. You need all timing in early. If you have not listened the SBB likes cylinder pressure (timing, compression, boost, NO2) add as much as possible with out detonation. In your case a cheap swap to thinner head gaskets and milling the heads may be the perfect cheap way to gain quite a bit of power.
My 1987 Monte Carlo SS with Trick Flow heads a 350hp 327 cam and 355 cubes with a Q-Jet on a chassis dyno only made 240hp and that was after a 328hp engine dyno 4 months before. The chassis dyno accounts for transmission power loss, rearend power loss and is actually very accurate with all of the correct variables. Since it takes into account all of these factors and power loss that is why your numbers are "low" to you. It does not seem too out to lunch to think that a virtually stock motor only makes 150 hp at the wheels. That's close to 250 hp on the motor and you have not even cracked one gasket to see what the cam is.
Kid you have no idea how bad the 70's hurt performance and what kinda turds Detroit put out then. You have only lived the Fuel Injected Performance years. In 1973 a Buick 350 with 150 RWHP "WAS" snot slinging badass for the street. 1973 was the beginning of the turd years and the Buick 350 was kickass when everyone was on a level playing field. It's just old technology compared to LS1's, GN's and 5.0 Mustangs. Welcome to the reality of wanting a Badass 350 Buick. That's why we are all here. Save your pennies and Justa 350 will sell you a turbo kit for that boat anchor 350. Then find that dyno with a perfect tuneup.

Read the KB article and spend some time tuning at the strip or on a back road and enjoy what you have.

 

I also like the idea of that 510 cam. Is it very street able? Probably need notched pistons.

 

I have a pretty slick custom nitrous kit I might sell..It works on a stock qjet with stock intake..

 

Interested.... PM sent

 

Whats with the "magic" q jet around here??? The q jet takes quit a few tricks to out do a holley.They can run and Ive had to do it before in a stock class, but its not this guys answer. Shoot, he is learning still.Youll scare him off with the q jet.