for Buick small block LOVERS let the flaming begin.

I'm ready to throw my engine in the inlet, 600 dollar headers and 400 dollar intake included, i'm 4000 into this motor, with ignition intake headers, exhaust, starter, small things to make it run right. Before you guys start asking about carb tuning and timing, Both are Dead on, the dyno guy gave me kudos for the carb tune. air/fuel is perfect. Timing is 12 initial, 36 total. plugs are clean. running perfectly. I'm so, soooo happy i've got a 455 to build because the 350 is going to the dump, any body want some 600 dollar headers for free? of course i'm just ranting, but i'm never touching a bui 350 again. Did I mention my compression is good and even in all cylinders and the motor only has 2000 ish miles on a complete stock rebuild (previous owner rebuilt). I need to get drunk.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WO_PxW3Vwp0

FLAME AWAY/ Go big or go home.

cheers, Ryan

 

What brand of dyno is it? Some of them read lower than the actual hp figures.

It sounded good, and looked good to me!

 

Gutless POS, it's a chassis dyno and they don't lie. I'm pretty sure mustang dyno's are a bit more leanient. but still doesn't change the fact that it's a gutless pos.

 

That is the most hilarious thing I've read in a while. If you actually believe that statement, cars should be the least of your worries:laugh: If you can't get a Buick 350 to run a decent number with $4k in it, I don't think a 455 or any other engine choice will resolve your issues. I've only got $6500 or so in my whole car including buying it.

 

buickgs350
If the headers, go in the auction block
keep me in line. I will put them to good use.

 

That's part of the reason I don't like to chassis dyno our cars. Numbers are just numbers.
Run the car and have fun. Race it at the dragstrip and win with it. Dyno's don't win anything.

And, the people with the big dyno numbers....you hardly ever see them at the track. We NEVER see any of them around here. Because their car won't run as good as the dyno numbers look.

 

Well, not sure why you spent $4,000 on a 350 and still have a stock engine.... Your engine came with a 750 cfm carb and you run a 670, great idea! How exactly did you expect your 350 to make BIG power when all you added was a TA intake that adds little if any power, a smaller carb, and some headers. I am surprised you even made what you did...

The 73 Buick 350 4bb you have in your car is rated at 175 hp 270 ft.tq with all accesories, emmison stuff and full exhaust. Now after going through the drive line you would get about 140 hp at best bone stock.

I agree that chassis dyno are not very accurate in some cases BUT here is the same combo as yours other than a Poston intake instead of your TA intake even the same carb.... And this car runs 12s with a small shot of spray, busting transmissions and rear ends... Wow Nick must be disappointed in his stock 350 running 12s in a car that most likely cost about $5000 in total.

Get the heads ported, add a good cam, and get the compression up, as well as a larger carb.

 

Please post a pic of the dyno sheet with the AF on it. I'd like to compare it to my pring out. My motor made peak hp at 4600-4700ish. This should give you an some points to compare with.

Something is way off on your car. I can't beleive your down 50-60hp from my car with the exhaust upgrades I don't have.

If it makes you feel any better I have a 455 for my car as well, but if I hadn't already spent what I have on it. I would have built a turbo 350 instead, after trying to blow this motor for 2 years and it just keeps going.

And sorry to hear of all you troubles with the car. Its tough when you spend money and don't get the reward you were expecting from it. My car is currently sitting due to a transmission failure after spending 800$ fixing the rear, I just don't have the extra cash laying around.

 

Something is wrong, with either the dyno or more likely your engine. My 350 made more power than that bone stock.

 

with all that plus a cam and a 750 carb you should have been putting out upward to 240rwp or atleast 200 even

 

You've been reading too many magazines with big HP numbers! Forget about them. Use the dyno to improve the numbers your car makes.

Before the engine swap begins I'd get to the strip and see what happens. A 350 with that setup should dip into the 14's no problem, depending on elevation.

At what rpm did it make max torque/hp? Can you post the curves? That would be interesting to see where it is at with a stock cam. What brand is this stock cam?

If it was me I would get the heads off and mill them .030" to pump up the compression. Toss in a mild cam TA RV12 or 112. Keep it mild to go with the low compression. Fairly cheap stuff to do.

Try a carb spacer. A 1" 4 hole would probably work best on that setup because you're not going to rev past 5000. Is the 670 set up to get the secondaries in as fast as possible without a bog? With a smaller than usual carb they should be tuned to come in fast. The Holley vacuum secondaries are notorious for coming in conservitively. Get a secondary spring kit. You can tune it on the street until a bog starts. For that matter try it at the track until it bogs off the line.

None of this will make a big power difference on the dyno but it will at the strip and you might be suprised at how fast the car is.

 

Get rid of that holley! I had the same bull**** on my car.Go with an 800cfm q-jet.How did you spend 4 grand on the engine,if all you did was put ignition upgrades and some hooker headers? Hell man I think im only about 4500 into my car and thats with buying it rebuilding the engine trans rear and and doing a 4 wheel disc swap.Good luck with the 455 though:ball:

 

You know how to make a 350 motor run 12's???








Rip it out and install a 455....


jk
I had a 70 GS eons ago with a basic 72 350 and a muncie M20 4 speed with 3.42 gears.I put dual 2 1/2 inch exhaust,MSD ignition and a good carb with a Crane cam just a little over stock and ran a best of 14.50's. It was a street car and I had more fun with that car (albeit not the prettiest) than any other Buick I had. I even brought home 1st a couple times.I believe you are getting sound advice from several here. The only reason I put a 455 in my car is I had one available and the minimal amount of 350 stuff at this point.

 

Oh man Pat, I was just about to jump on the keyboard with blazing fingers! You got me.

 

Is this an 8.5 motor?.what ignition you runnin?Did you do the motor or the previous owner? Who knows what cam is in there. Dont ditch it yet take a step back and think about everything.Maybe the converter is shot maybe the carb is only running on the primarys there is many things that could be wrong but possibly only one is holding it back. Change the cam, change the carb would be a good suggestion though.

 

It is a low comp 73 350.

 

OK first of all what you have to understand is the 4000 wasn't all performance upgrades, the whole thing was a bag when I got it, ****ty wiring, corroded points, dead starter, etc... I had to do alot of work just to get it running properly. Second, I'm getting tired of people telling me that I can't just throw an intake and headers at it and expect to make tons of power (first of all, i'm not an idiot, I have built a few small block chev's for the old school drag team which powered our car to what would be the 1/4 mile equivalent of bottom twelves with an rv cam), My power goal was 200, which is reasonable considering theres guys on here making that without headers and such, so I did not have unreasonable goals. I did not build the engine, unfortunately, it was the previous owner, compression like I said is all even, runs like a top. And guess what, it didn't come with a q jet on it, it came with a 625 demon, which I hated, so I switched to a holley, because I'm good at tuning holley carbs, and because they are a great carb. The car is just gutless off the line, I estimate it would probably run 15.6 or 15.7, it does 0-60 in about 10 seconds, which makes me concour with the dyno operator in that my trans is probably pretty worn. I'm not going to be wasting any more money on this small block, I'm 19 and i'm making 12.36, I wasted pretty much the entirety of last years wages hoping I could get it to run somewhere in the 14's and make some decent power, i've got good gear 3.30, reasonably light, 3585 lbs, and I figured decent power because it runs so good and I've tuned it well, plus adding headers, msd pro billet distributor with box, TA intake. Peak power occurs at 4200 even though we took it to 5100, which makes sense for a stock cam, which is new, got a good look at the distributor gear and the cam certainly isn't ancient. I'm not changing the carb, trust me I wasn't born yesterday, don't you think i'd know if it was running on the primaries? I certainly felt all four barrels on the way home when I merged onto the highway at 95 mph. And for the record I havn't read a hotrod magazine in about 2 years, mainly because it's depressing how unrealistic the setups and hp numbers are for normal guys like us. The converter could be ****ed but I think it's more likely that the trans is fried, clutches gone. In the video I posted that was my worst run where he ran it in drive, we got 137 hp, when he held it in second on the next run thats when we broke 153. Whats really funny is i'm not even running a belt driven cooling fan, i've got an electric, the dyno guy figured we'd get atleast 200 if not 225. I'm not doing a big block swap just because of this, it's been in the works for a long time, if you want to go fast for less, and with a milder gear, get a 455. theres no point in me wasting another 4000 or more on machining and a cam, headwork, and other small things to maybe run high 13's. Not interested. I'm just surprised that my setup sucked this much.
Sorry i'm getting so aggrevated over this guys it's just frustrating after a year and half and that much money's worth of trial and error, and tuning and adding the upgrades, and fixing tons of wiring issues, etc... It's especially aggrevating because this is not the first engine i've dealt with and it's just not wanting to perform, after all these issues have been worked out.

Heres the power curve, pathetic twist for a bui 350 too, 229..

 

Well....you asked for a "Flaming"...what did you expect? The 350 is a good little eng. it's just yours that's not pleasing you. If you're complaining about the trans, why do you blame the eng.?

 

Take it to a drag strip and run it.

JW

 

I'd love to jim, but the rear main and pan and trans pan are dropping a quart of oil every time you really wind it up now, dropped a good pool on the dyno floor after 3 runs, which means i've got to pull the whole drivetrain out and re gasket it if I want to drag it, which I don't know if I really want to do at this point. And we don't have a 1/4 mile drag strip on the island.