I have a 70 gs with a 455 and just installed a D-1sc. I have a Sp1 intake and the carb hat is hitting the hood near where the silicone hose connects to it. Its a superior air flow hat. Has anyone ran into this problem with the Sp1 and what was done?
I think I remember reading where someone milled the carb mounting flange at an angle, but don't quote me on that!
Yea, i bought the kit from Rich Burgi ( Nitro71455 ), and he had to mill his carb pad for it to fid under the hood but he had a SP2 which sits higher than a SP1. And my carb hat is sticking further up pass the fender line than his SP2 did before the pad was milled.
Without really knowing what I'm talking about, can you turn it around backwards and plumb it from the rear? o No:
the carb hat would still stick the same heigth above the carb, it wouldnt change the clearance problem that way. Im stuck and dont know what to do cause i dont want to get another hood or cut a hole in mine.
I had the carb pad on the manifold shaved down as far as it could go and im almost there but the carb hat stud is now hitting the hood. The hood touches the hood latch instead of being about 3 inches away but still not able to close the hood. Any more suggestions?
I've done this in the past just to clean up the looks. Screw a short stud into the carb and lock it in place with a jam nut. Run another nut down the stud but leave it loose. Screw a coupling nut about halfway onto the stud and lock it in place with the second nut that's already on the stud. Adjust the height until the top of coupling nut is just below the inside of the carb hat. Install the hat and use a short bolt of your choice, I liked a polished button head Allen screw myself. Use lock washers / lock tight if you feel froggy!
Ok, i tried that and now the bolt head sits fluh with the top mostpoint of the carb hat since its machined down and recessed a little to get a flat surface and now the hood latch will click 3 times instead of 1. Im getting close but still not there, are there any more secrets. The ony thing left that i can see is that i might be able to take off a 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the bottom of the carb hat where it mounts to the carb itself. Not much of a gain but anything at this point is good.
That sounds like the last "easy" way to lower everything. Stupid ideas, in no particular order; Mill the block/heads, and the intake side of the heads to make the intake sit lower! Lower the engine. You'd need to shave the frame pads and slot some holes. (may not even work very well, it's all compact as it is) Raise the rear of the hood with spacers between the hood and hinges. Use a lower intake. Cut and weld your intake to make it lower. Use a low profile throttle body and switch to EFI. Use a "thinner" carb. Trim the inside of the hood (if that's what hits) Use a glass hood with a cowl scoop, or a stage 2 hood scoop. I'm all out of stupid ideas! (thank goodness!)
As far as the other mods go, im not willing to mill the heads and block cause im wanting to keep the compression supercharger freindlly, and changing frame mounts to a little lower; to much work and like you said, its alleady really tight. I dont know of any other single plane intakes for the buick that would be lower, and switching to efi would be a big money killer. Id also like to keep my ram air hood and keep the stealth look to the car, cowl hood or stage 2 scoop would be a give away. Right now i thing ill try to shave a little off the bottom of the carb hat where it sits to the carb which migh give me 1/8 to 1/4 of clearance, and then ill see where exactly it is hitting the hood. If its hitting the bracing ill cut a little section out, otherwise its raising the back of the hood or finding another little secret that someone might let us in on.
I shaved the bottom of the carb hat as far as i could, which wasnt much, but it now fits, very very close but i can close the hood and thats all that matters.
Kyle, Turning the Carb had backards like Alan mentioned may have worked but would have been difficult to pumb. I don't think the SPX is taller than the SP1, I ran both (not supper charged) but I don't recall the SPX being taller than the SP1. It really baffles me that you had so many clearance issues with it. If my post is read, I had to shave WildCat intake (SPX) becase the carb flange on the old KB intakes were Level and not sloped. This made the Carb hat Stick streight out and I had major clearance issues. My machineshop took about 3/8's of an inch off the front and 1/8th off the rear of my KB intake. That allowed mine to Fit with the stock GS hood. I did have to massage the bracing a bit with a carbide bit, but not much at all. I'm really not sure why your's motor seems to sit so much taller than mine, but I am more than certain a stock ATI hat would have fit without going through all the stuff you did to make the EV hat work. --Rich
The motor sits in the stock position so its allready low and tight in th engine compartment. I wanted to use the carb hat cause its a really nice peice and the free horsepower with it over the standard carb hat it allways welcome.
I don't uderstand what the deal is there. The SP1 intake must be taller than my KB CoolRunner. I had pleanty of room under my hood where the Carb Stud was. Infact I had a good 1/2 inch of stud sticking out above the nut. I wish I could get my car right beside yours to see what exactly the differance is. --Rich
DIfferent thickness body bushings? or worse shape(compressed) mine sits a little higher off the frame with the poly bushings i put in it a couple years ago. maybe just replacing the old worn out 37 year old body bushings with new rubber ones may help. lots of trouble just for that... but may need done any way.
May very well be it. When I did the frame off on my car 7 years ago, I did use poly bussings at that time, and they are still the shape they were when I tightened them down to this day......
