Larry's right, sorry I copied and pasted the wrong cam specs not paying attention. The roller has a more agressive grind and duration
I agree with bw1339 - use an infared thermometer and shoot the header tubes. Water from a squirt bottle works too. Pull each wire one at a time from the cap with insulated pliers and see if each cylinder drops 100 or so rpm. Shoot a better video too - just hold the camera steady.
Yeah video sucks, I'll shoot another tomorrow with the phone on a stand. I'll pick up a infared thermometer tomorrow to see what's up. Things warrantied and I've let them know the issue. If it wasn't fear of something locking up or causing catastrophic failure when my son was in the car or something I'd run it till something let go and tell them to send me another.
Funny thing about you saying to use Insulated pliers as I got 2 good bites today from the distributer
While the heads are cool from sitting over night I'll go Gap them all again and see what they look like at same time. Then head to get a thermometer etc and make a better video at same time
Time to check compression. Remove all plugs Unplug the hot lead to the HEI Block the throttle open at least 1/2 way. Turn the engine over 5 times for each cylinder, with the gauge installed. Do each one twice, to verify first stroke and final reading. Look for at least two cylinders that are low. If you find that, back the rockers off on those two cylinders, and re-test. JW
Probably just got fouled when starting for the first time and dialing the carb in. Did it come with the carb on it? Maybe all you need to do now is clean the plugs and run it.
No the carb wasn't on it but it's the builders recommendation along with the plugs. Now that I had to take the headers off to get to the plugs etc I'll go borrow a compression tester and see what I get for readings.... not sure how I'll do it alone though
Yeah, that cam in the engine you linked to is a bit bigger than the first one you listed and will give you a shaky idle but not as much as you have. Vacuum looks like it is around close to what it should be with the bigger cam. Does it jump around more than 2 in. when taking a measurement or is it close to a steady 15? Those fouled plugs don't look like they were firing, sometimes like Jim said there may be to much pre-load from the production shop. Their thinking is to go to the high end of the preload spec to cut down on possible valve train noise. I doubt that every engine is dynoed too, you probably got a copy of the sheet of an engine with the same components that was the one engine they dynoed and all with those parts gets that dyno sheet sent with that same type of build. The assembler of your engine could of went a bit further than the high side of the pre-load spec on a couple of cylinders, if it was my engine I would re-do all of them and set them with a 1/2 turn pre-load. Can't wait to hear what the compression test and header tube temps are. Derek
Thanks for the feedback Derek. You may be right but I've seen the same motor make different numbers, every dyno sheet I've seen (and have) has the serial number of the actual unit being dyno'd and the full run with all rpm specs. I've seen the same motor vary + - 15hp. But like you said who knows, guess I'm taking them at they're word. Doing compression test now :Brow: The vacuum numbers were from when I was getting the carb idle mix dialed in on both metering blocks. I haven't since checked vacuum with it running after the initial tune.
When you set carb, do you remember if the vacuum was steady or jumping around? With the way the video looked the vacuum should of been jumpy as much as the engine was shaky. uzzled: Derek
It was jittery yeah 1 3 5 7 almost 150 bang on accros 2-145 4-150 6-150 8-150 What do you guys think seems pretty good to me. Now what? Guess get things back together and check header Temps?
