Finally back working on the X clone, I think I got alittle carried away this weekend with the Dynamat. I had bought enough to do the trunk but practically used everything on the interior and never even got the roof, or package tray done. Heres a few pics,
Wow! looks like you did a nice install:TU: Any idea how many pounds that adds to the car? That's the only drawback that I can see to doing it. I did the floor on my '66 Special with the 6" wide Lowes roofing stuff....with the windows rolled up, and the radio off, it certainly is a lot quieter.:grin:
Wow, you spent some loot. I have did a realtive bunch of research and ended up buying http://SmittyMats.com [can find em on Ebay too] and after reading lots of reviews I went with them as the test done on similar to Smitty [closed cell dense foam with foil backing], were near as good as the pricy brands like Dynamat and 2nd skin but the test done lead to that the tar stuff just weighs to much for some folks and when it comes to hot spot becomes a mess when it melts. [they stuck each kind to a metal sheet and stuck it in a over to see what happened at what temp.] Dynamat is also like $13 per 10x10 square piece and they want you to over lap it. [so its like 9x9 useable space] Smitty was 2lbs total weight for a 12in wide x14ft long roll. Only $2 per Square ft. Price was also a factor, Im poor and I can only afford so much to do my whole Firebird interior. [Did thew roof first and it made the car more liveable in summer heat, never had a head linner and that heat radiated right through. Making it hotter inside then out. no a/c] Though I did find another place to cut cost. The foil tape most sell is pricy, even in stores. Found walmart has chrome duct tape for $3 a roll. Very nice and shiny. Save me some money there too. But good job on your install.
Thanks guys, the stuffs about 1/8 thick or so? It'll Prob add about 50lbs or so by the time I'm done. It was really confusing ordering the stuff as i thought there was different stuff for the floor, doors, roof etc. cause they had different part numbers for the different parts of the car? Turns out the first layer is all the same (Dynamat Extreme) they just package it in different size boxes and varying quantities. If i would have known this I should have just ordered more bulk pacs instead of separate smaller boxes. The stuff goes on fairly easy and conforms to the different shapes. At first i was cutting smaller pieces and butting the pieces together then I realized overlapping was a good thing and even doubling up in some areas, this made the install alittle easier. The toughest part was trying to order the stuff up, now its all good...
Yes the ordering is very confusing, why I started looking around and searching. Stumbled on some reviews n test then took that different direction. Dynamat needs to revamp that ordering stuff as if it wasn't confusing, I would or probably just bought it there and never looked around.
heres a link to the test i read, this guy had waaaay to much time on his hands.... http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com yes it did cost alot more for the dynamat and i did consider other options, but i really don't want to do this job again or have the stuff on the roof fall on my head if the temp gets over 100F. I'm sure anything is better than the factory stuff anyways, Gord
That's why I did my roof first; with no headliner I knew it would be a good test. No sag or droop in the hot sun with Smitty, stuck like glue [pun] Though my only mistake was no paying attention. As in my Firebird the doam light is well stuck so Ill just push the mate over / push the prongs that hold the bulb through it. DOH, spark spark fizzle n pop goes the fuse as the foil backing conducts electricity you dope [me]. Was an easy fix though.
I just started putting the Dynamat Extreme in my X yesterday. Slow start and I have only done the passenger side foot well area so far. How hard was it to cover the transmission/driveshaft tunnel? Seems like that is going to be a pain to get it to conform nicely. Did you use the large sheets as a whole and simply press it down and work through the wrinkles as it conforms over the compound curves? I am hoping it will be simple but I'm a little concerned about getting BIG wrinkles and bulges. Can you give me some advice from your install experience about how you worked it over the tans/driveshaft tunnel and the compound areas? I want to get mine done this week as I am ready to install carpet and get back on the road!! Thanks!
Did you than install the factory stuff over the Dynamat in the roof? I am going to be putting a new headliner in and thought about doing this? Thanks,
I know your question is directed at racenu but just make sure and check all the mounting holes needed, you can tape pieces of cardboard of the same thickness in those places to then do a test fit to see if it will interfere with the fitment of the head liner. Then use a marker to mark where you dont want the mat. Myself I never had one and don't plan on buying one so I went over everything. But when I did my door panel I had to think ahead on how it was going to fit, like a headliner. Now I wouldn't suggest it for your roof but I ended up cheating on my door panel. As I had metal rods and such that needed to be covered so they didn't get stuck to the mat and after too much thinking I cheated. I put the SmittyMat on the door panel and not the door itself. Made it much easier to get full coverage with out interfering with the mounting clips, the rods for the handle n lock or having any noticeable gap around the edge from it being spaced up any from the mat. It was not the 100% correct way but it was easy and will still block more noise then normal. [And yep I only did one, was putting on a new right door and while it was apart went ahead and did that. Ill do the other when I find one to change it.]
Rob, Before starting its important to use a degreaser and wipe down the entire area to be covered. (so much for my nice paint job) Theres prob no right or wrong way but I started on the tunnel down the center with narrower strips at first cause i didn't know how the stuff would conform. If you don't have the roller get one, the wooden handle works really well for pushing the dynaliner into the grooves in the pans and for defining openings and cutouts. You should also have a variety a box cutter, shears, and some other pointy tools and screw drivers to help push the dynamat in the nooks and crannys? I started with smaller sheets then once i saw how it would conform an was feeling cocky'r I started using bigger sheets on the larger flat areas. I did the back seat divider flat areas and cut around the round inner fenders and did them last? The under dash was a pain and all the vent boxes etc, this area took the most time. You may end up with little scraps but save them and use em to cover smaller gaps you may have missed. I would do one side of the car at a time cause then you can see where all the bolt holes and cutouts need to be and cut them out before you cover the entire car? Its important to Wear coveralls and gloves, I didn't and may have ruined a pair of pants and my only pair of hands as the foil will leave some nasty paper cuts:spank: .... One other tip is when you are using a larger sheet and there is a high spot, work the dynamat over the high spot first and roll it down all around the high spot without letting the rest of the mat permanently stick, you'll end up with some creases but at least the foil won't rip. If you do end up with some rips in the foil cover them up with your leftover scaps.. I'll post some more pics below (quality sucks?), But just go for it and get er done, overlap it at least an inch or more and unless you post pics, only you will know how good or bad of a job you did:TU: One last thing, i just orderd some more Dynamat Extreme and Dynaliner from Summit and the guy at the order desk said the price is going to double next month on some of the Dynamat products?
Maybe the price of oil finally hit them on the back end? Had plenty of stock to sell at current prices but the build up of new stock was at peak oil pricing. But they were nice enough to sell what they had at the lower price and waited to raise it till the high cost made stuff starts to get into circulation.
That could be but its anyones guess, and now because our Canuck buck is dropping in value by 1-2 cents a day againest the US buck the price of this stuff is getting even more expensive. this link may simplify understanding the buying process of the Dynamat, I had trouble finding this link on Dynamat's site, it should be on there first page. http://www.dynamat.com/download/2010_Dynamat_Sell_Sheet_Print.pdf
Today was running errands so no work on the car. Tomorrow I plan to hit it hard. I removed all the old glue residue and then cleaned the floorboards completely, treating the minor surface rust areas with Ospho after removing rust. Then I cleaned everything again and sprayed the entire floorboards with epoxy primer sealer. I then cleaned the freshly primered floors with PrepSol to remove any grease or dirt. Then I started with a large sheet and just used the roller to press it into place. I have a couple of tool handles to use for pressing the mat into grooves and I use some utility scissors to cut areas where large wrinkles would occur. This allows overlaps and then I trim the excess and use it to cover exposed areas from trimming, Seems like I'm using the same approach as you. Like you said, just jump in and get it done!! Thanks and I'll post some pics of my effort soon!
good luck, as long as its all covered and shiny it'll take a great picture! Show us once you get done and i'll do the same. Gord
