Dual Quad Switch Pitch TRans Help!

I am having a problem with re-installing the switch pitch trans switches after installing the dual quads on my 1965. It sounds like you can replace the switch located on the manifold by running a direct line from the brake pedal to the appropriate location on the trans.(the lower post), since it seems impossible to locate an original mounting bracket. I've read you could utilize the switch on the gas pedal, or install a toggle switch...am I understanding this correctly? Is there a benefit of installing a toggle switch as opposed to utilizing the gas pedal mounted switch? Without the switch hooked up properly I am not getting the full benefit of the carb/trans combination. It is less responsive than with the single 4bbl and everything hooked up correctly! Thanks in advance for all your help.

 

Take ALL of your original switch-pitch hardware, seal it in a big zip-lock bag, and lose it in the back of your garage--or dump it on eBay.

Buy an electronic controller from Bruce Roe ( bcroe@juno.com ) and you'll never go back to the primitive system GM inflicted on us.

Roe's system uses manifold vacuum, throttle and brake position along with three separate timers to control the torque converter. WAY more sophisticated than the simple switches GM used.

I have one on my Toronado and love it. Tell him Schurkey sent you.

 

I sent him an email, but haven't heard back yet. Thanks for the referral. The original stuff worked great when I had it hooked up. Any more information on how I can work with what I have until I get the electronic controller from Bruce? I am anxious to see how the dual quads will perform, it is a dog without the switch hooked up, and pulls hard at stop lights. Do you have pictures of the unit installed from Bruce? Everything under the hood is factory including the linkage and air cleaner, and I usually avoid after market items that can't be hidden. I appreciate any wisdom you can share.

 

So if you run the toggle switch to the horizontal post, what do you do with the vertical post, just leave it with nothing on it?

 

The vertical post is the detent (downshift, kickdown, passing gear, etc.) solenoid. You'll want the original linkage for controlling this, or adapt a later A-body switch that mounts to the acclelerator linkage under the dash. Like the vp terminal, the detent is engaged with 12V, usually adjusted so that 3/4 throttle gets you a downshift when appropriate.

Devon

 

I'll see about taking some photos of my Toro. Sorry, it won't be for at least a few days--unless things go exceptionally well at work.

There is "nothing" under the hood except the wire harness to the trans and a vacuum hose from the engine to the controller--which is hidden under the dash.

The controller is self-contained other than the vacuum hose and wire harness; about the size of a pack of cigarettes--maybe a touch bigger. I think I lost the paperwork that came with mine, as I haven't stumbled across it in a coon's age. That's something else I'll have to actively look for.

Although it isn't included with the controller, Bruce provides instructions for adding a manual switch and a pilot light--you can force high stall, low stall, or let the controller do it automatically; and you can wire a light to activate for high or low stall.

I did not install the manual switch; but it's on my list of things to do. I want a yellow light to come on when it's in high-stall, too.

Bruce is a switch-pitch genius.

 

I'll try to describe the operation--as best as I can remember. Until I locate the paperwork, this is an approximation and not considered infallible:

Push brake pedal, converter goes to high stall. Prevents creep at idle at stop lights.

Let off brake pedal--adjustable timer provides high stall for "X" amount of time to get vehicle moving even with high manifold vacuum. Set the timer for best operation with your car and driving style.

High manifold vacuum, brake timer expired--low stall for economy and reduced trans temp.

Step on the gas firmly--low manifold vacuum--high stall for quick acceleration. I'm thinking the vacuum switch is adjustable to suit your car and driving style. Two SELECTABLE modes--either it goes to low stall again only when the manifold vacuum increases (you pull your foot out of the throttle because you're done accelerating and you've begun cruise conditions) OR you engage another timer so that the timer activates so you get initial acceleration with high stall then when timer expires you get heavy-throttle high-speed and low stall (Useful for heavy vehicles (motor homes), towing trailers uphill, or cruising at 120 mph.)

Step on the gas hard enough to get kickdown gear--controller goes into drag-race mode with a different timer. High stall until the drag-race timer expires, then WFO throttle low stall.

Since you still need a kickdown switch, I grabbed a gas-pedal-mounted switch and bracket assembly from a '68-'70 Toro and mounted it in my '66.

 

Thank you for clarifying. I still have the original pedal for my 1965 Electra, but I think it may be best to locate another pedal with the kickdown switch only and leave my original equipment asis and store it with the single 4bbl intake as mentioned earlier. Anyone have a recommendation of a good parts yard? The yards around here don't stock much in the way of classics. By the way everyone who doesn't know, Bruce mentioned earlier, he comes across as a very knowledgeable guy, and has been extremely informative. His equipment looks to be the real deal, from other endorsements online. For those of you who want to send me an email and I will shoot you the link. I am new to this blog and it won't let me input links yet. I obviously was not familiar with how this trans feature worked, or would be affected by changing intakes, and as of yesterday was baffled...until you all have chimed in with help. Great to be part of a network of people interested in furthering the knowledge of fellow Buick owners!

 

To anyone interested, I will be setting up mine in a much simpler fashion. I will be running power from the brake lights to the switch pitch for high stall at the stop lights. I will also have a toggle switch to manually put the car into high stall for all of those times that we HAVE to have high stall :3gears: . Then I will put a diode inline on the wire from the brake light switch to the trans. That will prevent the brake lights from staying on all the time when you activate the manual toggle switch. I drew up a crude wiring diagram for it if anyone is interested.

 

Hi, Another option for the kickdown is Lokars TH-400 Electric Kickdown Kit. It might be easier than adapting other linkage.

John Z

 

A foot operated dimmer sw will work for a manual set up.

 

OK, I lied. Roe's controller is about the size of TWO packs of cigarettes--maybe a bit larger.





That's the vacuum switch screwed onto the back of the plastic controller housing.
I did find my paperwork packet that I got with the controller.

 

Thanks for all your help and the photos. After emailing Bruce, and hearing your endorsement, I think this is may be the way to go. What car do your run this setup on and is it your daily driver, or at the track?

 

I have a 65 SP400 that I will be swapping with my ST400 that I have in my Riv, next winter. I e-mailed Bruce (10 minutes ago) about his Kickdown/modual thingy. This looks like the way to go.:TU: Brody let us know how it works out for you when you install yours-:TU:

 

Yeah it sounds like the way to go, here's the catch...Price tag = $165 which seems a bit high to me. I have read there are other aftermarket alternatives from MSD that run $25, and honestly I am more comfortable in the $100 range. Larry70GS spoke of the Poston SP controller. I ran a google search and couldn't locate one. I am wondering what that costs, and how superior Bruce's controller is in comparison. Schurkey maybe you can enlighten us, if you are keeping tabs on this blog, as you have one on your ride... Thanks! I don't mind spending the money if it truly outperforms the competition!