D&S Performance Buick 455/462 V8

I don't know how something as simple as a relay and electric fan setup can go so wrong(a re-occurring theme for this saga) but the move to a simple sensor and relay to turn on the fans is the way to go. That is how I do it plus I added a bypass switch so I can turn the fans on manually if necessary. I'm not sure what fans you have on there but a loose ground should not be causing a relay to be heating up unless the ground connection is right at the terminal of the relay. A relay too small for the current being used by the fans would cause the relay to heat up. The controller should be isolated from the load of the fans by the relay so something else was damaging the controller. Find out how much current your fans are using before hooking up your new relay. However the only fan that really draws that kind of power is the Lincoln Mark V fan which draws lots and lots of amps. I did have to purchase a special relay to use that fan when I did.

I'm pretty sure there are no factory G-Body fan shrouds that work with a BBB. The fan position on the BBB is offset toward the driver side of the engine compartment which means that a typical fan shroud with the fan centered is useless. Anything that used a SBC won't work. There may be one that I don't know of and maybe the G-Body guy can help you out with one that works specifically with a BBB. That big mechanical fan is a power hog and I believe they have a fairly low rpm limit they are rated for. If you go mechanical go with a clutch unit.

 

Thanks for the reply/assistance, No_Lift.

I have these fans; I know they pull a lot of juice.

http://derale.com/products/electric...ne-to-3-8-hose-bar-compression-fitting-detail




This is the Ron Francis controller that failed me 4 times;

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-ar88?seid=srese1&gclid=CPzm1Ivxo8wCFcNkhgod0WoCzw

The relays and 40 amp fuses (2) not shown in photo comes with the Ron Francis controller.



I'm stopping by Ralph's today/Saturday regarding this issue/suggestions, to discuss WHY the failures before he touches anything, and get an appointment for next week's install of Dakota Digital dual fan controller, and power steering pump swap.

:3gears:

 

you NEED TO put an amp meter on those fans and see what both the surge (initial start-up) and running current are to determine what relay size to use. you also do not want to use one that is close to the value .. leave at least 20% headroom

 

The correct size relays came with this kit; they are two 70-amp relays ... the dual Derale fans pull 25-amps each.

:TU:

 

Good morning, ALL.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2llLR8eckKI


:3gears:

 

What's your alternator rated at? Hope it's a brute. With your high beams and other lights, both fans, and heater fan on plus another 3 or 4 amps for your ignition, you could be approaching 100 amps worst case.

 

I looked at the RF website and it appears the only way that you can get the 70 amp relays was if they were added as an option. Maybe I missed something? Plus they would be outboard of the main controller. From what I could read the main controller controls the onboard relays(maximum of 30A going by your picture) and they control remote 70A relays. You would need 2 of them for a dual temperature control. One 70A relay for each temperature. Is that what you have? The 70A relays appear to be in no way mounted on that controller. Also if you have a 70A relay it must be protected by a "MAXIFUSE" which is an oversized version of a regular fuse. Because of the current flowing through it the terminals have to be bigger. Just like the 70A relay which will have larger than normal terminals to handle the current. Is that what you have? Remote 70A relays? As far as what appears to be controller relays what are they rated at? The controller should have come with some specification sheet.

There is no way the relays, either the ones on the controller or the remote 70A units should effect the controllers ability to control the relays or the relays ability to cause the controller to go bad. The only thing that can cause the controller to go bad is bad wiring or possibly if the relays you are saying are getting very hot are the ones on the controller. What exactly was getting hot? I'm not sure what the relays on the controller are rated at but they are limited to 30A because of the fuse/breaker. If they are 30A relays then drawing 25A continuously could cause them to warm up but I don't know if that could cause the controller to go bad. A bad ground could possibly cause a problem but it shouldn't cause anything to heat up except if it is carrying the full load and the bad connection area is where it will heat up. A bad connection causes resistance in the circuit and wherever the resistance is where the heat will build. Just like the "resistors" in a toaster or electric baseboard heating. If there is a bad connection to the relay that is where it could possibly heat up but the ones built into the controller should have sufficiently large enough connections for their rated power so I can't see them heating up unless they are overloaded.

The same size terminals that are on the Maxifuse would be also on the relay. I have both a Maxifuse and a single 70A relay for controlling both of my fans at the same time and mine are in the 20-25A each range. I have an 8 ga. wire coming right off the terminal of the battery right to the fuse. One thing I would say about the RF instructions is I would just get a heavy duty terminal that attaches right to the + battery terminal instead of running it all the way down to the starter battery terminal which is what I believe the instructions say to do. I used a type they use for the big car stereo power takeoffs. Make sure you also have a heavy 10-12 ga. wire from each fan back to a ground, either at the battery or at the engine block.

http://www.bcae1.com/images/jpegs/fusemaxi.jpg

X2 on making sure you have a good alternator to power everything.

I'd also like to mention that I've been working with electronics/electrical equipment for the past 40 years or more and that is what I actually went to school for. "Buicks" is my "hobby" and where money made from working with electronics goes. :dollar:

 

Thanks for the info, very very much. :TU:

I understand the amp draw issue. I have a 100-amp alternator ... a few Buick-Guys informed me that they have 140-amp alternators. I have NO heater/blower working ... I unplugged the blower years ago. I have made a public announcement that, "God Forbid this fan controller fails ... I am getting a full refund from Summit, and purchase the Flex Fan and spacer that's already in my Summit cart. :TU:

:3gears:

 

I stated that the NEW Dakota Digital controller has the 70-amp relays. The Ron Francis controller comes with twin 40-amp relays.

I've recently found out on Facebook that I'm NOT alone with having 2-4 RON FRANCIS controllers fail them ... in-a-row ... Summit has complaints regarding the as well. Funny how I dug all over the World for complaints/issues regarding the RF controllers BEFORE I purchased it ... and found "0" ... now, the complaints are all over the place ... including mine regarding the Derale Fan Controller.

I checked that both fans are grounded yesterday ... they are. I even printed out the installation instructions for myself and Ralph the guy that's installing it. I can wire the fans at this point all by myself ... if my disc-fusion surgery of a few months ago didn't have complications NOW with fluid continuing to build up from inflammation around all 6 Titanium screws and CAGE that looks like the TA block girdle. The pain is WORSE than before I had surgery.

I adamantly (as always) appreciate your help and expertise. :TU::TU:

 

I found this out regarding a g-body GM factory fan shroud used in Buick gbody 455 Regals;

Rob Bee Before I went with the aluminum radiator and electric fans, I used a 7 blade clutch fan and the fan shroud from a ss monte carlo. Worked great for years and I always had and usedy ac.

:3gears:

 

The gbody Monte Carlo SS upper and lower radiator fan shroud I got for $30. The stock clutch fan for the gbody Monte SS is available for me for $40 if needed. I was told the factory Monte Carlo SS has a fan that fits Buick 455 V8 engines (guy with 87' Buick 455 Regal informed that's what he used).

This is in my trunk already ... for use if the new Dakota Digital dual fan controller fails, and I'm looking/thinking to buy a Flex Fan with spacer to keep in my trunk also. The issue is, is that 98% of the Buick guys on Facebook HEAVILY suggested my NOT buying/using a Flex Fan, from issues of overheating, to fan blades coming loose through hoods of Buicks.

Are Flex Fans SAFE????


o No:

 

I HAVE A QUESTION;

Is my 10-inch torque convertor (engine builder purchased it for me) that "allows my tires to spin when I hold brake pedal and give the motor gas pedal" ... @ 2600-rpm ... ENOUGH convertor for my Buick 455 Regal?


:3gears:

 

Thanks again, No_Lift.

In this short video, I question the SIZE of the 40-amp fuse/fuse holders. My question is, are they the correct size regarding car stereo ga wire/fuse?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2llLR8eckKI

:TU:

 

Flex fans are 110% positively JUNK dangerous, inefficient, unattractive and belong in scrap metal piles

 

Understood. :3gears:

 

Look who I found on YouTube;


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j87pBO4dybE


:TU::TU:

 

Good evening, ALL.

BEFORE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5gwbeW1Ehw


TODAY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYQN62ErGBI



:TU:

 

Good Day, ALL;


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6MDUZQFufA


:3gears:

 

... :TU:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hqZNaD7lfc

 

Teflon tape is NOT to be used on the AN taper seat fittings, just the pipe threads , putting Teflon tape on the taper fittings only causes problems. The tapered seat provides the seal