Discussion in 'Drag'n Wagons' started by superbuickguy, May 21, 2017.
Now that it's out you can still change your mind
as I said, I take donations - about 20k should cover it.
a bit worn
I think I bought the wrong flexplate
pan fits well, though
first step, clean the motor
going to paint it a Detroit diesel green because, why not?
I got quite a bit done today but this little Fiat engineering lunacy took a bit of time
you have to remove the alternator bracket to change the belt.....
oh yeah, and hold the tensioner over with pry bar and strap
because fing Fiat
back to GM.... only one broken exhaust bolt.... only not out yet
I also did photoless work on my Colorado (wired lights and installed a pedal commander - to remove the lag)
So pretty much it was a day of dealing with the professional automobile engineers and fixing their efups.
and I scoped the pistons - lower compression so 300 hp not 345 - but the bright side is it's better for the turbo that is inevitable..... that said, it was pinging a bit too and has brand new knock sensors..... my guess it was due to the excessive carbon .... it had a lot
a bit of heat
and out it comes
not sure on the color....
that was a test panel, those parts are getting wrinkle black
rockers off and pushrods out
rockers need a rebuild....
GM doesn't put the dot on the bottom gear
and yes, it's 180 degrees off.... so what
disassembly of the rockers
and an issue....
can you spot it?
count from the right - the number 2 and number 3 journals look terrible. it literally looks like it was chattering in both of those bores - guess the low oil pressure was starting to cause issue.... but that creates a problem.... or rather a decision. Weigh in, I'm leaning towards ignoring it and going with the 'I have a high volume pump for this reason'.... I do not want to pull caps... though I suspect they're fine since it does the mains and rod oiling first
back to this
I don't trust the newfangled holders but I do trust gravity
I'm going to run the cam by a couple friends tomorrow and see what they say...
Notes for myself:
317 heads 71.6 cc
243 heads 65 cc*
need head bolts
Fel Pro makes a .048 MLS gasket (stock is .054)
Use LS7 lifters
*note, I am concerned about the stock lifters - so this a footnote to why rebuild
IF I can save the 317 heads with new seals and basic clean up, if not $500 for remans
ARP bolts are $75
head gaskets are 65/ea
bearings/rings are 376 for Hastings or comparable
LS7 lifters are $170
I'm sure machine work will be $500
rebuilt or new rockers $170
budget then is $1300 in addition to what I already bought worse case is 2k.
*243 head and FelPro gasket raises the compression to10.5 which is optimal for a no-boost motor ....
timing gear off
and here we go, disassembly
only interesting thing, the push rods were rattling against the heads
all in all, other then that wonderful ARCO fuel look, it looks really good
the lifters were worn, so changing these is a good thing
the bearings look new
a lot of carbon, but still no ridge, no gunk in the oil passages
mains look as good as the rods
and bagged for its trip for a clean and new cam bearings
both halves of the mains
crank looks great
in other news... the transmission guy said pull the filter and look to see if there's crap.... notice anything missing?
and the plug is broken
I'm not sure if I'm mad, I'm seriously considering buying the parts and rebuilding it.... why not?
the clue was the leaky pan - when I got it off there was no sealant, so it's been off
parts are coming together. I bought fresh 317 heads today.... $300... but there's a distraction because my '40 is back to get back on the road.
I'm supposed to get the block back tomorrow, and have most of the parts (except the heads, they're in Portland) to assemble it
in the mean time, time to clear a bench
fix the wiring harness (with a new one)
and the new one in place
and assembled (pan isn't tightened but at least it has a seal there now (rubber)
AN fittings for the cooler
ugh, machine shop.... I thought we were on the same page. hone and knock the cam bearings in place. I get a call today that "you have a problem"... apparently .002 taper is bad. - while I admit that .002 is not optimal, for a cheapass motor, knock the glaze off and have a nice day - it ran fine before, it will run fine again.... guess I'm doing this myself.
It was right to knock the bearings out....
what's interesting is it's only the middle bearings where there is issue however the chatter happened on the ends
top of the bearing looks brand new
middle 3 are at copper ends are fine
So I don't know, I may buy a rotation kit/stroker - they are amazingly cheap... I beam rods, forged pistons, steel crank with bearings for $1700 delivered and all name brand stuff.... gets me 403-408 ci.... feel free to weigh in, and again, I'm not building this motor for the Buick, I'm building it as my 'stock' motor to make stuff run quickly....
Nothing wrong with a few extra cubes I always say!
Is the rotating assembly balanced or do you have to have that done? If not, sounds like a great price.
picture of head gasket kit that I think is poorly described (thought I was only getting MLS head gaskets, not a set)
hmmm.... anti-gravity device is faulty
electric requires moving '40, which would mean opening the door (it's 20 degrees outside), and letting the heat out of the shop
wait, I have another option
time to hit my thumb...err... mark rods
plan b, I'm still artistic with my dremel
forgot about this catch basin on my washing cabinet.... filled with sludge but very little sludge in tank (win)
then clean oil passages
which brings me to a question... why 2 holes in the cam bearings? there are not two galleys....
new, rebuilt heads arrived
I'll leave these original size, sorry for the slow load times
two holes... why? only one oil passage
here's the weld/connection point - I am guessing but it may be part of the problem of the wear because that would divert oil from the bearing - especially if it was tight up against the oil feed hole
in this picture, you can even see where the oil was diverted out of the bearing
this surface has a very rough texture
and then what about the high and low spots of the bearing? presumptively it's a round hole so why would there be pressure points (the shiny)?
anyway, puzzling and something I've never seen before
yep, rod goes in those holes to guarantee they stay up...
washed pistons today
painted the block Buick red
it will get another coat tomorrow - to preserve the paint...
push plastic down onto the paint (to keep the air off)
then smack the lid on
Good job! It is always nice to read your posts and see the pics. The LS engines sure are easy to work on.
one of the videos I watched used carb cleaner to clean the pistons... as I'm not thrilled with the solvent method, here we go
then time to knock cam bearings in place... what a pita
then slid the cam in place
and set the crank in place....
Pistons are coming out nice from the carb cleaner - first I put them in a solvent soak and wire brushed them.... probably would have been just fine doing the carb cleaner only