building a Buick 350

What do you mean by "they will both be spinning at the same time"?? If you can move the crank several degrees without the cam moving, then it may be time for a new chain and gears.

 

the timing gear and chain have been removed, i was told that if i lined the timing marks up on the timing gear when replacing them that they cam and crank should be in the same position at tdc. my cam card is for a 212 and the cam card says degree intake 106degrees for a 4 degree advance?

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it says exhaust opens at 45 degrees bbdc intake opens at negative 1 degrees btdc and then exhaust closes at 5 degrees atdc and intake closes at 39degrees abdc exhaust duration is 230 with an overlap of 4 degrees with the intake duration which is 218. its basically all jibberish to me

 

so the pics i just uploaded are unreadable how do i make them bigger?

 

When the 350 TA212 cam was made (Ground) it is supposed to be set up so when the timing gear marks are pointing at each other the cam is sitting 4 degrees advanced so that the high spot on the intake cam lobe (The lobe center) is at 106 degrees ATDC.

However that is rarely the case so a procedure called cam degreeing is needed to check the cam timing.

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?220945-Camshaft-degreeing-101

Read through this carefully.

Paul

 

Here Kyle,read this thread,its about degreeing a cam;

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?220945-Camshaft-degreeing-101

This should help explain what you're asking.

 

You have to start with larger pictures, like 800 X 600

 

to replace the oil pan gasket i have to loosen the motor mounts and lift the motor up a bit?

 

The best way is to use an engine crane to take the weight off the mounts, remove the engine mount bolts and then raise the engine a bit so you have room to work and get the pan off....

 

Hey Kyle,since your taking the oilpan off,you might want to take a look at the bearings. If the crank can be moved back and forth by hand ,and make a "clicking" noise,your thrust bearing I think it may be all done. With .003-.009 end play,there shouldn't be enough momentum to make a "clicking" noise.

If you now have a dial indicator for when you degreed the cam,you should be able to use it to check your thrust clearance. With the oilpan off,set up the indicator on the end of the crank,then pry the crank as far as it will go(you can pry on a crank throw using a main cap,pry just enough to make it go all the way in one direction,your not trying to pry it out of the block). When it is all the way in one direction,zero out the indicator,then pry it all the way in the oppisite direction. If you have more than .020" of travel,you should seriously consider putting in new bearings while you have the pan off anyway.Runnig it with to much thrust clearance may damage the crankshaft.

If you do replace the bearings,this would be a good oppertunity to replace your torque converter with one with a better stall speed,because the trans(or engine,or both) will need to be removed to change the bearings.(if the funds are available?)

If the clearance is too much,and the funds aren't available at this time,you can put it together this way and run it until you have more funds to buy a rebuildable core. Just build a short block(engine without heads),and transfer your heads,cam and lifters(make sure the lifters go in the same location they came out of)timing chain and gears,intake,and carb...ect,and VOLA! You have a new engine. If you do this,look for a 73 or newer 350,these have the better rods. GL

 

im going to save up for a short block and just do it right, im not risking blowing all the money ive already spent on this motor. so I have a perfect condition 1972 skylark non gs hood, 2 1972 skylark custom grilles( one looks brand new the other has a few problems with it. and i have a perfectly straight 1972 front bumper just needs chrome. if you guys know anyone who is in need of these tell them to call or text me 727 479 7303. ill post in parts section as well.

 

Kyle,did you check the thrust? Even if it is not where it is supposed to be,you can still drive this way. Unless you want to use the original block and crank,it is a good idea to fix it first.But if you are going to look for a rebuildable core,and this car being your main source of transportation,you should be able to drive it the way it is,depending on how bad it is.(just try to be easy on it)

Not sure how far into putting it back together you are,but if the heads and intake,and cam are on already..........
The bottom end will tell you when to stop driving it,by a knocking noise. It could last 5 years this way,or it could be all done in a week.The point is,if you almost have it back together,you might as well finish it. The parts that you put on this engine shouldn't get hurt if the crank starts knocking.(it may hurt the block,and crank though,but if you're going to find a 73 or newer engine for the better rods.........its up to you)

 

ok well all thats left to put on it is the timing gears, chain and accessories. and the car should be good to go. maybe i will just put it together cause i really do need to start driving it ive been having to borrow my dads vehicle and its getting old.

 

Keep an eye on craigs list for a 350 core,I just bought one for $150 from a guy in Roseville,MI. It had a blown head gasket,and the guy just bought a 350 olds and put it in his 77' Lasabre.(I think the repair was over his head) There was a freeze plug missing also,I think that was what made it over heat,and blow the head gasket. I didn't care because all I bought it for was the crankshaft for my sbb 300 stroker project for next year. The crank is in great shape,all I need now is winter to be over.:Brow: Your lucky,you don't have that problem,the problem you have is it being to hot.

Just make sure you don't hammer on the gas pedal to often after you get it running,and it should last until you can do a short block for it.

Did you figure out how to degree the cam? And why did you want to take the oilpan off?(old cars don't leak,they mark their territory)

 

lol ya i drive that car like an old lady ive had it for 3 years and done one burnout in it and im 20.... so im not a crazy driver. and yes the cam is degreed, my dad wants me to pull the oil pan because the cork gasket in the front was damaged and i need to replace it i guess, as well as there is probably **** in the oil pan? it barley leaked so i never thought it was a big deal. but i guess stuff could stop up my oil pump which probablly isent a good thing lmao. and that is sweet sounds like you came out with a good deal man. when i find one ill start right on it lol.

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btw the motor in my 72 is a 73 it has the number cast into the block

 

this is grate stuff guys. i am new to the forum and i am going to rebuild m 350 someday and this thread is awsome. you all really know your stuff. i cant wait till you guys help me out with my build a few years from now.

 

MOTOR is running and healthy! sounds great, except of the open headers atm, i cant wait to get my exhaust rewelded LOL. I would just Like to say thank you to everyone who helped me with this project. I really appreciate all of your guidance! and im pretty proud i got everything together with no leaking :Brow:. does anyone know proper operating temp on this motor? cause this cam seems to be making her run a bit hot i think. as well as my breaks dont work for ****. ill bleed them and see how it goes from there.

 

Hey Kyle I'm glad you finally got her running,thats great!

As for it running hot,that may just be a matter of setting the timing. If the timing is to retarded,you engine will run hot.

Theres a good "sticky" thread that explains how to set the timing. GL

 

The engine might also be running lean with that carb on there which could also cause it to run hot.