You're imput is appreciated, That's what is great about this community. That would give him a general idea, and has always worked for me. I think with what he has been stating he would need someone with knowledge for the internal engine. I think most members here like their Block Mains, Rods and Crank serviced, Then everything checked with a mic to know exactly ?
Frankly, I'm more concerned about the holes being .060 over without a sonic ...Oops - didn't mean to.call you Frank, Mr Calzone
I'm with ya on the over bore concerns But its a done deal now and it can't be undone. If its torn down now and checked out and isn't right he has to start over. If he runs it and it doesn't overheat and the oil pressure is good he is probably good to go. Otherwise he has to start over. Maybe I'm too much of a gambler? Bob H.
I guess he has nothing to lose there. But he better be damn sure what his rod and main clearances are. 1.5 thou.
yep.. a long 2 dollar screw driver, 2" of 1/2" conduit a hammer and an arc welder or torch with some brazing rod.
I bought a 1/2" wood boring bit from a hardware store. It is a 10" long flat bladed paddle-bit which cost only a couple of dollars. I snapped off the point so I was left with a flat screwdriver type tip. Then I took a 1/2" deepwell socket and dropped it over the bit from the back, so it hung down from the back and covered the entire tip. This kept the bit from walking off the oil pump shaft as it spun. Works great!
Does any know of a chart that shows what the minimum oil pressure should be on a 455? The only chart that I've found just shows the psi at 5000, 5500, 6000, 6500, 7000, 7500, & 8000. I realize that different factors affect the oil psi (such as bearing clearances and thick or thin oil viscosities) but surely one of the major engine builders has a chart. And... if it turns out that there are charts already out there that everyone agrees on, please tell me where to look as I must have overlooked them. Thanks, Jim
Hey Jim I really don't know what the minimum oil pressure should be. I really need to know myself before I start my engine. This is my first engine build and I found out a lot of things that I should have done differently to make my engine perform better. I had a Hi-volume oil pump installed in my engine not knowing that I could have went with a regular oil pump. So if you find out anything about that oil pressure before I do please let me know or if I find out something I will let you know. Thanks, Antoine
damn after reeding the first page you got me wondering on my 455. i built a 71 455 i plan to put it in my 63 riv it's all assembled and sitting on my engine stand rapped up tight. i had the stock crank re done cause one of the barring spun and ate up the crank. it has nothing fancy just a cam in it to make it rumble. the old timer who helped me put it together and he did the machine work is kinda chebby guy but he knows pretty much about all the big three motors and knows what the 455 can do. he had nothing but praze about the motor and he said also that it could eat up a chebby like nobody's bissuness. i'm gonna have to go through all my paper work and start another post to see what you pros think. oh yeah sorry for hijacking
A good rule of thumb for a typical street/strip 400/430/455 is 11 psi for every 1000 rpm. Low pressure at idle is not a problem as long as it rises as the rpms climb as mentioned. Devon
Dude, this is one of the most difficult engine swaps known in the auto world. It is by no means a "drop it in and go" type of swap. Engine mounts need to be fabbed - the 455 won't bolt to the nailhead mounts. Depending on where you sit the engine, a trans mount may need to be fabbed up. The driveshaft will need to be altered, and doing so to a 2-piece shaft is difficult and expensive. I believe the fuel lines on that Riv run up the opposite side of the car from the side of the 455 that the pump is on. All the accessories need to be reconfigured to fit correctly. It has been done before, but with a great deal of specialty work. Please start a new thread and let's get you some input from those who have done it before. Sorry for the hijack.
Can anybody tell me how hard or easy would it be for me to swap my high volume oil pump to a regular oil pump? I'm just a novice and wanted to know how hard is it to take the high volume pump and put the regular pump in. I know there are springs and things inside the high volume pump but the regular one doesn't have as many as the high volume. I don't think it will be that hard. The motor has never been started up so before I start it I want to change out the oil pump. Can somebody let me know how hard or easy it will be to change it out.
The HV/HP pump is just longer gears with a spacer plate. All you need to do is remove the 2 gears with the spacer plate, and install a standard oil pump gear set. The only thing you need to be concerned with is pump end clearance, and pump priming. Take a look at post #2 in this thread: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=81817&highlight=oil+pump+end+clearance I'd also consider adding a booster plate with an adjustable regulator.
Okay thanks Larry I'm going to get the set from T/A anyway. So the springs won't be a problem then? I looked at the thread and it should be a breeze.
