I have been posting updates on my build on another site but thought you guys might be interested in it even though the engine is going in my MG! Here is a link to the build thread.... http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?40,2598435 Cheers, Chris
Chris were you able to use that aluminum flywheel you bought from me on this build? Very nice project, thanks for sharing
Norman, yes I did! I had to use a Jeep 231 ring gear and balance it but if you look at the photos in the build thread I posted you can see your flywheel bolted to the crank. Thank you again for the great addition to the build!
Jim, I will probably be around 2,300-2,400 lbs I think. The 300 weighs 75 lbs more than the stock engine. I am using an aluminum fuel tank and a few other things that help to get the weight down. It was pretty damn fun with the Buick 215 I had in it. This should require a change of underwear when I step on it.
Sean, if you used a rubber bumper MG (cheap) clearance to the steering rack isn't an issue and it would be a fairly straightforward swap with a tranny and rear axle... I even have a spare 300 that I'm trying to sell....
I didn't read all 11 pages of you thread, but, what is the port injection set-up from, mostly Rover? The throttle body looks trick and after market. Where did you get that?
Just got done reading your build, nice job! Love it. One concern though, are those plates that bolt to the front of the heads some sort of motor mounts? If so the concern is the engine torqueing over and stressing the head bolts when driving it. If those are holding the engine up means the head bots are holding the engine in place and you might want to rethink that if that's what's going on. GL Everything else looks great, that should be a really fun car when you get it running. Derek
Derek, thanks for the input. I researched the engine mounts very intensively before going this route. All the experts I spoke to said that they would not be a problem. One person on this board who knows is Jim Blackwood and his blown, crazy 340 that is going in his MG. He uses the same mounts. But the person I trust most is my engine builder. He has built 1,000-2,000 engines in his career, everything from mild street rods to drag rails. He said it wouldn't be an issue and I trust him. Cheers, Chris
Phillip, I am using a 1,000 CFM Speedmaster low profile throttle body. The fuel rail is 1/2" aluminum and custom made, as are the injector bungs. I modifed the intake as per Doc's suggestion, making four ports into two (note, if you do this, there is a water jacket on one side that will need to be welded up...don't ask me how I know this ou: ). I am using Chevy Silverado 5.3 L injectors and a Megasquirt 3.57 EFI system. The trigger sensor is from a 95 Ford Crown Victoria, as are the coil packs. The trigger wheel is from www.trigger-wheels.com Regarding porting, the intake and heads are gasket matched (nothing crazy) and the heads have larger intake/exhaust valves. All this information is in the build thread along with information on where I got all the parts, but it is a long read! Valve covers are for a 350 SBC but I purchased adapters from a fellow in the UK to mate them to my heads. The reason for dong this was price ($60 for alloy heads plus $100 for adapters vs $250-$300 for offenhausers). Chris
Cool. I just have never see done this way before, I don't remember reading that for JB build but its been a while since I read that one. Derek
There are a number of builds that use the same motor mounts including a few custom Ford 302's. I was also a bit worried at first but based on the feedback I'm confident they will work great. I am having a bit of trouble trying to find the best place to mount the ignition coils with the limited engine bay space but I think I am either stuck with the area immediately behind the intake plenum (and interfering with the heater line), or under the oil pan. Can you say square peg, round hole? That seems to be the mantra of this build at least from my perspective! Chris
word spreads fast https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=625459474221111&id=296917023742026
Are you going to run coil on plug? Seems like a good problem to have! Perhaps they can be mounted on the inner fenders? Or make a bracket that bolts to the exhaust that floats them in that area? To bad you're not running a roller cam with your setup, would give an LS a run for its money in the torque compartment. Probably even without the roller will give an LS a run for its money torque wise. HP to weight ratio is sweet as well, what do you think that thing would run in the QM with traction, like mid 10s maybe? Derek
Thanks guys. Big kudos go to my engine guru and also a local aluminum fabrication guru. I would be lost without their help. I was thinking about coil on plug but I wanted to keep the engine bay super clean. That's why I went distributorless. Having black plastic coils attached to shiny valve covers didn't work for me, although it really is the best solution. Because spark plug wires alternate from each coil pack they really need to be mounted close to each other. Also, people have recommended that I keep my wire lengths as short as possible so that limits mounting locations as well. I did have a perfect spot down low by the firewall but my plug leads would be fairly long for the front cylinders. Yea, a roller cam and roller rockers would have been great to have but I needed to balance performance, street drivability, and cost. I have mulled over the idea of a remote turbo but that is getting a bit ridiculous Maybe next year.... I have no idea what it would run in the QM. I am running traction bars and it hooks up really well with my 225/50/15s but I have never raced it so it probably would be measured in minutes, not seconds! Chris
What kind of air cleaner will be used? maybe you can hide them sort of behind it, yet still be on top and close.
