Baby is giving me problems all of a sudden.

That's because the power was on all the time connected directly to the battery is why it got hot just connected! The old guy was right about the ballast resister, not so much about a direct battery connection though. If you route it that way with a toggle switch it can be done this way BUT YOU WILL HAVE TO REMEMBER TO ALWAYS FLIP THE SWITCH OFF WHEN YOU PARK THE CAR!

If you trace the original wire thru the harness close to where it connects in the back of the fuse box, cut it leaving it a couple inches long coming off the back of the fuse box so you can attach a new wire the same gage as the one you cut, route it back just before the coil and attach it to the ballast resister and from the resister to the coil. Doing it that way you'll bypass the resister wire that's probably burnt and the ceramic ballast resister will replace the resister wire!

When you trace the wire back to the back of the fuse box you don't necessarily need to unravel the tape that holds the wires together just make sure the wire is the same color as the original one that gets hooked up to the coil. If you're not sure then do unravel the tape and make sure its the right wire you cut.


As for hooking up the fan relay to when the key is turned on, there are connectors on the fuse box to do that. DO NOT ATTACH THAT WIRE TO THE COIL! When the directions say to hook the wire up to the ignition that DOESN'T mean to the coil, it means hook it to a connection that is on when the ignition is on! I'm not that great with wiring I hope my advice is right so double check, I hope this helps. GL




Derek

 

You shouldn't need a ballist resistor with the Mallory set-up, it needs full 12 volts. It sounds like you have 12 volts some how, I'm not clear on how you did that. What I would do is find a switched circuit on the fuse block. To do that ground the negative lead of your meter and use the positive to probe the circuits as you turn the ignition on and off. It seems like there is an open (available) male spade lug in the lower left of the fuse block. Crimp or solder a wire to a 1/4" female spade lug and run that wire to your ignition.

The reason there are 2 wires going to the positive side of your coil is: one wire is the pink resistor wire that supplies about 8 volts to the coil during normal running conditions (ignition switch in "on" position). The other wire goes to the starter solenoid and supplies 12 volts when the switch is in the "start" position. You don't need either of those wires with the Mallory ignition, just switched 12 volts.

As for the fans, you could run a wire from the battery to a relay for power then to the fan and use the switched line going to the ignition to activate the relay. Are you running a fans through a thermostat?

 

If its a Mallory Uni-Lite distributor they recommend running the ballast resister in the directions. Ask me how I know. I have one and all the research I did with it before I bought one said nothing about a ballast resister needed I was thinking that I needed the 12 full volts, but then it shows up and the directions say to run one or it will eventually burn up!

As for the other Mallory distributors I can't say what voltage they require. GL



Derek

 

Ok il do that the right way. But even though it was wrong.. I stilll had required volts, shouldn't it have started ? I'm almost thinking I'm having a fuel problem. It's cool i can get away without using that wire if I have the box which il have in a couple days.

Once all thats set il try to start, if it doesn't il pour some fuel in carb and if it starts. I guess fuel tank/ fuel sender/ fuel lines are all coming out and being replaced. Il probally take that fuel tank and shoot it a couple times for comfort.

 

Link on Mallory installation instructions. Figure one and two should help a lot. I like pictures :laugh: http://www.carid.com/images/mallory...tic-breakerless-installation-instructions.pdf

 

Thanks! I've ransacking my closets for those dam papers. No where to be found, I guess you can run that dist with a mallory coil but it's suppose to have a box that by passes that wire. I have one on way so il just set that up, I'm praying it starts but I think there's something up with my fuel. When i hit throttle I can't see anything squirting into carb, maybe some mist

 

If you have any 40 plus year old fuel line on the car change it all. Ethanol eats that rubber. Replace fuel filter. New one is worth the 5 bucks to eliminate it as a problem. Seems as a lot of people are having fuel pump failure lately.

 

Yea it's all old other then fuel pump. Wanted to change it but I was out of funds.

https://www.opgi.com/skylark/1969/air-fuel-delivery/fuel-tanks/

can an you let me know what I need from this page? Thinking fuel tank, those steel lines, fuel sender, il get fuel pump from TA

If you can just hit search button and put "fuel lines". Has options for hardtop which is what Id need just not sure which one, return,main line, I have no idea.

 

3/8 main line for hardtop. Might want so line holddowns. Return line if you have air cond. But inspected it first. I went stainless steel on my car from. ' the right stuff.'

 

That's the first time I've heard of a transistorized system that doesn't take 12 volts. I guess they did that to make it easier so the same pink wire could be used and they wouldn't need to run a new wire. If you put a ballast resistor on the pink wire you will have 2 ballast resistors and end-up with 4 volts.

 

Its been a while since I messed with the Mallory in my '65 just fired it up earlier today starts right up every time, if its hooked to the resister wire with a balast resister, it didn't make a difference in the QM when I added the ballast resister, so 4 volts must be ok?

I'm more of a machinist than an electrician, the mechanical stuff is a no brainer for me, but the electrical stuff is more like vudoo. LOL


Derek

 

Should I just stick with mechanical or throw on electric fuel pump?

I second that i HATE electrical lol

 

I'm a machinist with a degree in electrical engineering and I don't see how that would work unless the current draw is real low, then it wouldn't have the power to make much of a spark. Have you ever checked the voltage at the positive side of the coil while the engine is running? The pink wire is made of carbon encrusted cotton, that's how it becomes a resistor, there's no copper in part of it. If you disconnect it from the ballist resistor it will read 12 volts, once it's loaded it will drop voltage. Should be 1.5 ohms measured from the ignition switch to the coil. A ballist resistor is at least 1 ohm and the coil is 1 ohm, that's 3.5 ohms dropping 12 volts. Each component is going to drop about 1/3 of that voltage so you should have under 4 volts at the coil. Shouldn't work unless someone bypassed the resistor part of the wire. I was working in a garage in 1969 and we were seeing GM cars that were only a few years old with bad resistor wires.

 

Just got the ignition box, is this the setup I need to hook up ? For the mallory comp ss, says its magnetic so?

 

im gonna hook up my bull**** like the picture i last posted. I'll trace resister wire back to wherever, cut it, run new same gauge wire, run it to engine bay.

its says to connect original wire(resister wire) to red wire included with msd box, my question is since originally that wire is a resister wire and new wire won't be, should I put ballast resister on new wire once it's in engine bay, then run more of the new wire on other side of ballast resister too red msd wire?

 

Ok thanks, while I'm back there il hook fans to something. Can I just splice both wires to the wire am gonna cut ?

 

nope I didn't know that, that whole thing was unclear to me.

im a couple cans short of a 6 pack when it comes too electrical. Understatement. Thanks for being patient

ou: Fuse box is right freaking there.. I understand now lol was making this a lot harder then needed, I'm just gonna crimp them too wire thats going too "power". Thanks Mr Wizard