I just squeze it in where I can..... between working eveings, and watching the boys during the day, it doesn't leave a whole lot of time for stuff....... I'm on a mission to get this thing done and make to vegas!! After which, I probably won't touch the car for 5 months :grin: I'll take some pic's of it as it's going together.........
Rich- My suggestion- do the break-in with a *known* working combination (carb, etc.). Don't spend the first 15 minutes of breakin trying to tune, while your cam is just deteriorating into oblivion. I know a guy who tried to break in a 3x2 440 once (entirely brand new combination), destroyed the motor as you can guess. After *another* rebuild he took a known good 2-bbl and broke in the motor that way, then took the extra hour to change intakes & carbs. He was very happy to take that extra hour the second time -Bob C.
That's what I had plained on. For starters, I'm going to remove the inner valve springs (don't want too much spring presure wipping the lobes). I'll just fire it up and let it run at about 2k for 20 minutes or so (just as the carb sits. I don't plan on doing much tunning other than just setting the timing until the motor has about 300 miles on it. Once the charger is then back on it, I'll start the tunning process.........altho nothing has really changed so it should be fairly close.
Hey Rich, let me know if you have any fitting issues with the pan, I had some issues with the one I got from stef's and am wondering if they got it fixed yet. Jim Burek P.A.E. ENTERPRISES
Hey Jim, I ran into some fitting issues as well. I had to cut a notch out of the inner oil catch lip (whatever it's called ). It was hitting the main where it sticks out for the factory windage tray bolt. Below is a pick of the cut I made. It seems I may have to remove more as well. I think a rod bolt is hitting it a smige. It got too late so I called it quits for the night..........
Tomorrow, my buddy Chad is coming up to degree the cam (I've never done it). Once that's done, the oil pain install can be comleted (hopefully not to many more mods . The the heads and so on. Hopefully I'll be able to break the cam in on Sunday. Just in case your wondering, Yes the inner springs have been removed for breakin Good night for now.
Nice shop Rich..:TU: Like the lift!! Engine looks a Beaut!! I'm wondering about your choice of windage screen though. Do you use a crankshaft scraper?? Why diamond screen and not solid tin?? No worries with the cam degreeing.. not too complicated at all. TRUE TDC is the key. Do you have a POSITIVE piston stop? If not you can easily fab one out of a piece of 1/4" plate, bolt it over cyl. #1, with a bolt threaded thru it as a stop.. That was the WHOLE battle for me anyways. Finding True TDC. Hope this helps you!!:TU: :TU:
The main studs look a little short to me. Isn't they supposed to have treads poking out of the nuts o No:
I'm just goning off of what I've seen others do. If you look at Jim W's stuff, he's used this same directional screen on his stuff. As for the crank scrapper, I'm not running one. If you look close at the pan, it has a "hokey" one built in. I personally feel the screen and what the pan has built in surpasses what I had been running from the factory. Thanks for the encouragment on the cam. Chad has a piston stop and all..... he's done many I"m sure it won't be a big deal either. I just didn't want to takel it on my own.
