Any good tips to installing TA Stg 2 headers?

Got the 455 jacked up til the trans is against the floor pan but the left side is still giving me fits!

 

Its a PITA, on my 2.125 super comps you basically just have to push it thru on the pass side

 

My driver side isn't to bad,.. kinda odd

 

If you think more height would help id take body bolts out and scotch it up with some 2x4's between frame body

 

Try starting with the headers and installing the rest of the car around them.:grin:
OK on a more serious note, if you haven't already I would remove the two casting pads on the block just under the decks (2 on each side). Those things do nothing but get in the way. Removing the steering shaft also helps.

Larry

 

The right side looks easier. I removed the steering shaft and jacked it high as it will go. I've even tried from underneath. I did remove the casting pads when I machined the block.

 

What oil pan are you using? Sometimes it's less frustrating to pull the engine and put the headers in first.

 

I'm using the TA deep pan, but not the fab pan. The deepened pan with a girdle

 

Does the header hit the pan?

 

The outer tube is hitting the inside of the left frame rail. The inner tube(lower section) is hitting the valve cover and head. The rear flange is hitting the gear shift selector on the trans case(400)

 

I think you will have better luck working from the bottom. Unless you're on a lift, this is going to be fun. If you haven't installed the right hand one yet and don't have a lift, you may want to consider pulling the engine. Good luck!

 

Grrrrrr! I had a feeling your were going to say that! I fought putting the engine in with the trans attached. Failed. Pulled the engine and separated the trans from it to get it in. Last night I put the trans in and it still fought me. Now I'm back to square one:rant:

 

About how high do you have the car? I remember reading a Hooker Header sheet that said to raise the car a minimum of 36", but that was with Hooker's. Also if its hitting the valve cover, you may want to try removing it to see if its just enough.

 

I thought about that. I may try again tomorrow. It's hitting the head also below the exh port. I have it about 18" off the ground

 

Yea you gotta get it high, usually higher than a standard floor jack can go, I have to use a 4by6 block on top of my jack, its kinda sketchy

 

I laid mine in the chassis and then dropped the motor in. It was a pain. .

 

Like Joe said. With my Stage 2 set-up I have always wrapped them with strong foil-backed foam sheets. Layed the headers in the engine bay. Tied them up, and off to the side with insulated wire to the hood hinges. Then installed the engine (trans was already supported in the car). Removal was reverse order. Not too big of a deal, just have to be patient. BTW what size primary pipes are they?

Larry

 

The best way is to have the headers in the car and tied up out of the way like several have mentioned above.

Lower the motor slowly and grab and attach the header(s) before the motor is fully down on the motor mount pads.

If you put the header in from the bottom with the motor already in the engine bay you will have to jack the car way up in the air and probably have to remove the motor mount bolt(s) to allow the engine to move far enough out of the way (lifting with an engine hoist) to get the header in one side at a time. Do not jack the motor up by the oil pan.

Mike

 

The motor is still on the engine boom suspended. Trans is still attached. The primaries are 2".

 

I installed 2 1/8" primary headers in my 72 GS a few years ago. I left trans in car, and pulled engine. It was still a PITA.