There was none on top of the gastank of the "Hartford frame" automatic Stage 1 either. Original engineblock, original fourspeed, and buildsheet found is great. But you have a MUCH better car Brett. So don´t be sorry !
Good to hear Duane ! Please send an e-mail to anders.stalklint@telia.com so that I can send you better pictures of it, and more info.
"That's great you found the build sheet but there's nothing left of the underside of the car I hope you're good with sheet-metal or know someone good luck with your project happy holidays." You can buy a complete floor pan from Dynacorn (for a 69 Chevelle), fix the areas where the a-pillers slide into the inner/outer rockers, cut the trunk pan where it goes up to the Buick rear filler panel, and drop the body of the car right on it. Instant Floor and Trunk, and they are exact. I think they even make the area where the front floor section goes up to the firewall now. Duane
It´s very unswedish to say this, but I have no problem working on sheetmetal. But there is another problem. We are restoring and rebuilding a dairy originally from 1897, so time is scarce. Yes, this is what we do on our spare time !
Duane, are you saying that the 1969 Chevelle floor pan is more correct than the 1970 version ? And I read in some thread that the 1970 GS floor pan is different than the 1971 version. Is that true ?
"Duane, are you saying that the 1969 Chevelle floor pan is more correct than the 1970 version ?" Yes, the 70 Chevelle trunk pan, at the rear of the trunk floor where it goes up to the back of the car is different on the 70-72 Chevelle's. On the 70-72 Buicks there is an "L" shaped bracket that is welded to the floor pan for the last body mounts, and it is the same as what you find on the 69 Chevelle trunk pan. Therefore If I was going to do this type of thing I would use the 69 Chevelle trunk pan. "And I read in some thread that the 1970 (Buick, not GS) floor pan is different than the 1971 version. Is that true ?" Yes, that is also true. There are slight differences in the trunk area between the floor of the trunk and where it goes to the back of the car. There are also differences in the floor pan that goes under the rear seat, as the evaporation equipment goes through there for the 71-72 cars The floor pans are the same except the "welded-in nuts" for the seats are also different on the 71-72 floor pans. On the 71-72 Floor pans those "seat nuts" kind of look like big thick round washers that are threaded in the middle. They were spot welded to the floor pan in 3 places, so they have 3 indentations in them from welding. If you found a nice 71-72 Original floor pan you could use it. All you have to do is put a blunt chisel on an impact hammer and knock them off. Then weld in the rectangular seat nuts, and it would look like a 70 floor. If you were looking to use Dynacorn sheet metal you could do it in 2 ways; 1. You could buy the entire floor pan as a single piece. This would include the floor pan with braces, inner & outer Rocker Panels, the under rear seat area (over the rear axle), and the entire trunk floor all the way to the back of the car. Again you should buy one for a 69 Chevelle. Then all you need to do is cut the trunk pan when it starts to slope up to the back of the car and piece it there. 2. The other way would be to buy them in separate pieces. You would buy a floor pan (69 to 70 Chevelle), the panel that goes under the rear seat (69 to 70 Chevelle), and the trunk pan (69 Chevelle), and install them one at a time. I have done cars this same way. It allows you to keep the structural integrity of the car intact at all times. It might take longer, but everything will go in perfectly, and I was able to do the work myself. I welded an entire roll cage in the body shell before I took it off the frame so everything was held together properly before I started. I can post a few pics later of what I did to a 70 Chevelle Convertible and a 70 442 convertible so you can see what I had to do if you are interested. You can also buy inner & outer wheel houses for the 70-72 Skylarks, rear quarters, and the correct 68-72 tulip panels (the panel that goes between the rear window and the trunk lid), so if you are really interested in saving that car I am sure it could be done. It all depends on how motivated you are to do it, and if you are willing to spend the time/money on the project. Duane
Duane, I believe you will be able to determine what the letters are when I have sent you the pictures. The letter under "brake" looks like a M when I look at it closely. The problem is of course that it is printed right over "brake". Further to the right in the same row, i did at first not see the A that is printed right over "courtesy". And since the letters and numbers are all very centered in each "box", I believe the A I under "clstr" in the upper row is actually A L instead. The B or S (or some other letter) under "spdocable" is hard to read but I guess there aren´t that many alternatives. We´ll see. The mastercylinder again.
That should be all I need. Here are a few pics of how I replaced the floor & trunk pan in my old 1970 442 convertible. I used all original panels for this car. You can see that I welded an entire "roll cage" into the shell before I lifted the body off the frame. Otherwise it would not have stayed straight. The outer rockers were good on my car and so was the panel over the rear axle, so I opted to "cut" the outer rockers off the donor floor and leave the outer rockers on the body. I cut everything back to original seams wherever possible, so there would be minimal body work. The idea was to make it look like nothing was touched when finished. Once the floor was installed, and the shell was structurally sound again, I removed the "roll cage". Enjoy. Duane
Duane, thank you for the pictures and the information about the differences between years and models. That will help a lot. I will probably go the Dynacorn route instead of using a donator car. Mostly to avoid the car from being labled as rebodied. Is there a good source for new rearquarters and outer wheelhousings ? I have not found any when I have searched the internet.
Duane, there seems to be another M in the "ORN"-box to the left of the "Brake"-box. So in this pic you can see M M C 4. Here is what I now believe is the correct letters and numbers on this POBF-sheet.
The 70-72 rear quarters and outer wheel houses are both reproduced, as is the Buick Tulip panel (between the rear window and the trunk lid. AMK reproduced the parts but I think you can only buy them from "The Parts Place" now. As far as your flooring needs you will have to check into the Dynacorn site. I saw no under rear seat panel unless you bought the floor pan. However that floor pan did not have rocker panels on it, so you will need to decide how you need to buy your parts. On another note, you have a rare car with an interesting grouping of options. I think you will be impressed with the options on your car............................. and your question about the "consoles" will be answered when you get the sheets. Also, and this is very important, It took me many many years to figure out all these codes. When I decode the Build sheets for owners, the information is for the owners only, and is not to be posted on the open web. I have always done it this way and will continue to do this in the future. I have no intention of "broadcasting" the codes on the open web. I have enough problems with authenticating cars and certainly do not want anything listed openly so "other people" can use them to fake cars................and believe me, some people have tried. I have caught at least 2 people trying to fake build sheets for GSX's and even more trying to fake Stage 1's. I would appreciate it if you keep that info to yourself. I give a lot of free info on this site everyday, but some things need to be kept under wraps for obvious reasons. Duane
Just helping out with Duane,IT's AMD they ended up selling the stampings to the parts place to reproduce the quarter panels and outer wheel houses.
Duane, I understand the problem with people trying to fake buildsheets, restamp engineblocks etc. and respect the approach you have to this problem. Even if you hadn´t mentioned this today I would not have "broadcasted" your decoding on the open web. And I am also greatful for the info that you share freely. Thank´s Anders
I used a Chevelle driver floor pan and toe kick panel from National Parts Depot (NPD) to patch my 70 Buick.
Just wanted to make my position clear so everyone understands. I have your date code book as well, so I will figure out shipping and get it out right after the holidays. Duane PS. When you look at the Dynacorn site, they also sell the firewalls. I don't know if they sell just the "toe kick" panels, or not. They are the panels that go from the front floor pans up towards the firewall.
I´d like to report that I removed the POBF-sheet from the gastank without hurting any info on it. Feels good. Where there are holes there was severe rust, but all codes are still visible. Now a question. I assume the two bars (with holes in them) pointing forward in this pic below are homemade ? I just want to make sure before I throw them away.
