I got the brackets Don. That was quick! Thank you. I have not tried them yet, but they look like they should do the trick thanks. I got the radiator in and it looks great and fits great. I like it better than the Ron Davis. I still have to hook up the fans. Then it'll be good to go. I drove it and it stays at 190* while driving. Of course in traffic driving 15mph it heats up with no fans. I'll let you know have the fans work out and maybe post a pic when I'm done for others to see. Later; Mike
Mike keep in mind you should run a 185 t/stat as your sensor or controoler should be set at on at 195 on / off at 175 degrees . cant wait to see pics Don
Here is how a pre 72 radiator spout and passenger top corner appears. See the corner is not cut off like the 72 and up shown above.
Note Ijust had the dies created for this tank and now have that style tank with the up right style fill cap ... so new the pics arent even on the web site yet . if your interested Call me 517-404-6262 Don
Hi Don; I actually only use a in-line fuse and manual switch under the dash right now. I use a 180* thermostate. I found 160* is to much for any radiater to handle. How would I put a senser type switch in? What would you recommend and how do I do it?
You need the 195 fan relay harness .. the sensor is installed in the intake manifold port ...it is a open closed switch to ground and kicks the relay to turn on the fan ...the relay is 30 amp ... useing just the toggle will the apm draw may blow fuses ...you can also run the toggle to the sensor to ground the system .. same as the sensor making contact to ground to turn the fans on anytime you like . call me for more info Don
Installed the Alumitech radiator after painting it and temp now at 180 in town and about 190 on the highway in hot weather. Thanks Don
here is a pic of the new rad for thouse that want the 90 degree fill cap thanks for your support ...this forum has had several members call with questions .. always welcome Don
OOPs! Wish I had gotten that style! Well it's not coming out now as it works to good. I highly recommend these radiators. Super easy to install. You may just have to trim the rubber insulators a bit with a razor.
unfortunatly it took a year to raise the capital to have that die made . but its here now ...it wasnt cheep :eek2: ..so it hope it will boost sales . thanks Don
Question guys Is there a different direction the overflow tube points on the Buick rad then what we have pictured ?? we had a customer call and request a 6:30 location on the drain or over flow tube .. if you were standing at the engine location . Is this particular to Buick only ? Don
Yes the correct position for a 70 style Buick style is 6:30 as follows. This includes the 2, 3 and 4 cores radiators I have seen. I will venture a guess this was the angle needed for the overflow tube to go the retaining clip that was soldered to the passenger tank.
Don do you have any opinions on painting the rad. with rad. paint? I know the typical rad. paint is supposed to be able to dissipate heat but is there any drawback to painting the alum? Also are you stocking the earlier version tank now? Thanks
Interesting do you think as the rad is welded and not soldered and no hose clipe are there ...would it be best to leave them as we have at a 5:30 posision as we have now ? or build them as your pic for Buick only .. as the Chevelle and Cutlass and GTO have the 5:30 setting ?? Don
As most rads from the factory were painted .. the loss to cooling by painting is minimal 1/2% maybe 60% of our customers tend to paint to maintain stock looks under the hood . our idea was to build the closest to stock looking rad for that fact .. so its up to the customer . www.eastwood.com seems to be the prefered choice in rad paint . Don
I used Plasti-kote low gloss black engine enamel, part #215 on my aluminum rad tanks. The label says its good to 500* F, and it has a nice sheen. Not too glossy, not too flat, plus it dries fast. It has worked well for me.
Running a BeCool Rad with a 295 Flex A lite I switched from a 4 core Buick rad in my 1968 GS400 to a BeCool with a Flex A Lite 295 Dual Fans and a 185 F thermostat.... The car runs a comfortable 185 in the city but when out for a hard ride ( 30 minutes of 85 MPH driving she will run up into the 195-200 range ) .... Back in town... she will have filled up the recovery can. Back in the Garage the overflow out of the recovery can can leave me a little yellow/green mess on the floor... I am wondering whether I am overfilling my rad to begin with or whether my radiator pressure cap ( 18 pounds ) is too weak and should go to a 24 pounder...
