Aluminum Intake

Hey all, I currently own a pretty stock GS 455 and am considering upgrading it with an Aluminum Intake from T/A Performance (http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1201). I was just wondering if anyone who might have gone through the installation of this intake would be able to give me a run down on the parts they had to buy and what not? (different throttle cable, heater hose attachment, intake plug kit, intake bolt kit, thermostat housing/bolts, etc.)
Really just anything you knew you might need or would want to replace for the install.

I'd really appreciate it.

Thank You

 

Just my $.02 and worth every penny:

I can't see how that intake is worth anything on a basically stock engine. If you have plans to upgrade other engine parts and driveline parts down the road then it could be worth something. If you have to change the intake go with the Performer(if you want to retain your ram air air cleaner(which doesn't really do anything for performance) or the B4B which changes the location of the air cleaner. I think the SP1 changes the position of the carb and raises it enough to make the ram air unit a tricky proposition. The Performer/B4B will be worth something, but not much, but an a very mild engine they have to worth more than the SP1. Plenty of those Edelbrocks have powered a car right into the 11's. Of course that is when the SP1 would be worth the performance gain but is that what you're looking for?

I'm sure someone will get on here and tell you how the SP1 was worth X, Y, or Z but was that on a basically stock engine? Oh yea, before and after swap seat of the pants opinions or tire spinning ability means nothing. What did it do at the track on a stocker?

Whatever you decide make sure you block off 3 of the exhaust x-over passages in the heads and mostly block off one(1/4" hole) near the choke spring assuming you drive the car in cooler weather or don't live in the South where it never gets really cold.

 

Go with what Mike said. Block off the heat riser holes too,with the 1/4" hole, Keeps the choke working without overheating the intake.

 

I say go for it.
Switching to an aluminum intake is a great first step towards improving your car. You will be taking a big chunk of weight off of your engine. And you'll be ready for future improvements if you map out a plan and stick to it.

I usually paint an aluminum intake red on a mostly stock engine for that stealth look, but bare aluminum looks good too! TA has a nice polished stainless bolt set that adds a nice detail and replaces 48 year old rusty bolts.

You'll want to drain the radiator and engine of all the coolant. Try to keep things as clean as you can, stuff rags in the intake ports while you're cleaning the gasket surface. Just don't forget that they're in there. (Ask me how I know!!) A small vacuum may help suck out some of the grime that may fall into lifter valley. You can buy a lifter valley cover or re-use the original valley pan gasket. TA has instructions telling you where to cut it and how to seal it up. This is to keep hot oil from splashing onto the bottom of the intake and heating it up. Also keeps your PCV valve from sucking too much oil.
TA has a listing in the catalog and online of all the fittings you may need when changing from an iron intake.

 

The sp1 isn't a good choice if the rest is stock. I'd spend the money on a good converter or a better exhaust and headers. If you want to swap the intake I'd go for the edelbrock.

 

Thanks all for the feedback, really appreciate it. Reason I'm curious on what I'd need, outside of just making sure I have everything to do the intake swap, is I'll be buying stuff over time. Just too hard to buy it all at once and what not.

As for exhaust, I've been looking at a set of T/A headers (http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_2012CH) or Doug's Headers (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-d202-r)

- Rob

 

Not sure what vehicle this motor is in, but for bang for buck performance a set of gears is normally my first recommendation and often times will pick up alot of performance if you have a set 2.xx or low 3s

 

I've never tried fears. What ratio is that? LOL

 

Speak to text errors corrected

 

TIMEOUT!!! I think we're forgetting how well a Buick can run with the stock intake. Some people are kicking some serious ass with the cast iron factory intake.

http://www.thedrive.com/start-finish/9220/pro-drag-racer-jason-line-wont-let-go-of-his-1970-buick

 

This is getting off subject here a bit, but if you really think that intake is stk as cast your crazy. It might still be cast iron same as the heads, but there us more money in those heads and intake than 2 pair of al full ported 400+cfm TA heads

I find it amazing he can run a transmission that wasn't even a GM production option in that that year in any gm car and still get it through as a stk class car? The th200 wasn't ever buit til 76 I think, and then came in the xbody.

 

Car currently has 3.73 gears, not looking for a drag car, just considering some relatively easy bolt on items that could increase my HP.

 

I think researching a new camshaft will payoff the best. It may require a valve spring change. The new designs are much more efficient at making power, even on a stock motor. Call around and make your own decision. I recommend Mike Jones, but Comp and TA are also fine. Good luck.
http://jonescams.com/street-performance/

 

Get ahold of Bob at finishline performance. 616-765-5101. Tell him what you have, what your looking for, all the info he ask about your car, they have a cam designer that is great at getting a lot of power and still keeping the manors ppl want.

 

Doesn't he use Scotty Brown?

https://www.buyracingparts.com/

 

He does, but there are some special grinds you can get through him that are not available straight through the web site. And they do make a difference

 

Do the Eddy, and when you're ready I have a set of Hookers long tube with less than 1000 miles, next to new I can send your way for less than $500.

 

Awesome, thank you.
Yeah, the Edelbrock looks like a good intake. Just now debating on if I'll get a new carb as well (currently just have its original Quadrajet).

 

Yep Qjet is best until your in the 550+hp world. I also have an original 1972 Stage 1 QJ but its large $$$$. get a 1972 or later which are 800cfm and buy the rebuild kit from Cliff and your all set.